wondering about everything

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mihajlo
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wondering about everything

Post by mihajlo » 02 Dec 2005 03:05 pm

hello!
I'm new around here...
whell 12 years ago my dad bought a 1985 340 gl sedan 1.6D
perfect car! no rust at all comfort and everything.
but last year brother sell it because of money problems. :cry: he bought Toyota Corolla AE86. (drift machine) :D
now I'll buy another 340 sedan (probably 1.6D) or 360 and if you could help me with advices about tuning....
for begining it would be nice to put 4 discs and LSD on it. lowering the car is also includedin project.
is it possible to put a renault 2.0 16v (172PS) engine in it?
please help me now because I wanna fine car for me.

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Fuse
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Post by Fuse » 02 Dec 2005 04:47 pm

I wouldn't bother to do a 2.0 Renault engine conversion because 360 has a 2.0 litre Volvo made "redblock" engine (B19 or B200) so engines from bigger Volvos (240,740,940) will bolt on. (You need an oilpump, sump and some other minor stuff from 360 engine as those are different as in redblocks in bigger Volvos) For example 1990 and up 2.3 litre turbo engine, B230FT, from 940 has a bottom end which has con rods which will handle well over 400hp stock so I would go that way. And if you want 16V there are 16V heads available for redblocks too. SJS who writes in this forum too has a 2.5l (Volvo Penta crank in 2.3l) 16V and he has something above 200hp and he has not even turboed it yet.. :P Though when you go much above ~250hp the drive train starts to be a problem. Diff will go first, then the gearbox and if your torque tube parts aren't in good shape those can go too. But mainly problems with diff and the gearbox. Few guys in here have blowed diffs and gearboxes with +200hp turbo engines in 360's but no broken torque tubes. I haven't had any problems though but then again I don't have 200hp yet.. ;) 340 with Renault engines then have a lot weaker drivetrain than 300-series with Volvo engines. Ones with Renault engines have an aluminium drive shaft which can be broken with stock engine. :P

Of course everything is possible but there's a lot less work putting in a other Volvo engine I guess. And there are performance parts available in redblocks in every power need if you have enough cash. :P

There are some pics of SJS's 2.5l 16V 340. He has fitted a drivetrain from 360 in it.

http://koti.mbnet.fi/fredrikr/Volvo%20340DL/b254.html
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Post by classicswede » 02 Dec 2005 10:36 pm

I do loads up lowering parts and uprated bushes etc.
Take a look in the offer section under "performance cat"


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mihajlo
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Post by mihajlo » 03 Dec 2005 05:43 pm

cheers!!! thanx!
2.3 l engine is little too big because of gas consumtion :( (I'm a student afterall)
I heard that some alfa diff could fit to 300 models. is that true? :wink:
is that 2.3 l engine agile or lazy (I need agile engine with good response) what to do about gearbox? can some other fit?

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Post by Fuse » 03 Dec 2005 07:11 pm

mihajlo wrote:cheers!!! thanx!
2.3 l engine is little too big because of gas consumtion :( (I'm a student afterall)
I heard that some alfa diff could fit to 300 models. is that true? :wink:
is that 2.3 l engine agile or lazy (I need agile engine with good response) what to do about gearbox? can some other fit?
Ok. I just put the 2.3 as an example for power freaks. :P 2 litre turbo engines are also available. Volvo 700-series had B200ET, B200FT and kinda rare B204FT/GT which were equipped with 16V head. Though not all countries did get the 2 litre engines. I guess most countries had only 2.3l? We had 2 litre too because of taxing reasons at 80's. :P

200-series had 2 litre B19ET turbo engine. B19ET is better than B200-series engines because it has much stronger con rods. (As strong as the 90+ B230-series, though the ones in B200 series are not so weak either, they will hold approx. ~250hp in normal street use in turbo engine)

It is also possible to turbo the existing 2 litre B200 engine in 300-series as the internals are same what comes to power handling as in B200-series stock turbo engines. Only thing is that some B200-models have too high compression ratio like ~10:1 so that should be lowered. Of course it is possible to turbocharge with high comp.ratios also but then you need very good programmable engine managment system.

My GLT has B200E (2 litre injection engine in 360 GLT) with an exhaust manifold and a turbo charger from 200/700-series. Oil return for turbo has been drilled in to block etc... About pistons I am not sure. They could be the ones from turbo engine or then they could be stock because comp.ratio in stock is 9:1 so it would be possible to turbocharge with stock pistons too as I don't have so much boost. ECU is stock Le-Jetronic with extra-ecu which comes on under boost and it controls the fifth injector. I didn't built it my self and I guess that it has been built in somewhere late 80's/early 90's so complete turbo engines from bigger Volvos weren't available so cheap as they do nowadays. Today I would go for complete turbo engine from a bigger Volvo if I would start building 360 turbo because it would be a lot less work I guess. Of course if all parts are available you can also turbo the B200 engines in 300-series. :P

There's a list of all engines with specs used in Volvos throughout and explanations for different engine codes. There might be some inaccuraties considering the 300-series etc.. but pretty much it is reliable list.

http://koti.mbnet.fi/mtn/Engine%20classification.doc

Nature of these Volvo engines differs much because there were so many different comp.ratios used in different year models and different camshafts again depending on yearmodel etc... so there's no general answer I'm afraid. If you wan't info about Volvo turbo engines this is your site: www.turbobricks.com there's a LOT of info considering the turboing existing engines etc... few articles about that and a very big forum with loads of info. Not much about 300-series though because it is an American site and they didn't get the 300-series but as the engines are same family in 360 as in bigger Volvos the info there is good in that area.

Edit: Oh yeah and all OHC-redblock engines look the same outside. (Except of course the ones with 16V head :P but the block is the same looking) Differencies are internal so outer dimensions are same in 2 lite, 2.1 litre and 2.3 litre models. :P

Then there are also older OHV-redblocks but those were used in Volvo Amazons,140-series,P1800s,PVs,Duetts and such classic models. Just though to mention that you dont mix up these in OHC engines what I was talking about above. :)

This is pretty much what 8V OHC redblock used in 200/300/700 and 900 series looks like:
http://www.oksanentuning.com/4af58910.jpg
http://www.oksanentuning.com/47a58910.jpg

Of course there are some minor differencies in details such as different looking rocker covers, oil caps, manifolds etc.. but that's the basic structure.

And then of course it is also possible to tune these engines as naturally aspirated too. But I think there's more work then though because there are no naturally aspirated 8V redblocks available which would have over 140hp stock. B23E in 240 had 140hp. Foggy who writes here though has gotten out ~140hp from his B200 engine and it is naturally aspirated so that is a possible way too.

Well.. Long message so there might be some mistakes or then I could have written something kinda unclear but feel free to ask more if something didn't cleared up and I'll try to answer If I can. :D
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Post by Ronnie » 04 Dec 2005 11:49 pm

Cheers for all that Fuse! Very interesting. If transplanting to a higher capacity redblock with/without turbo - how do you handle engine management? How easy is it to splice in the new system into the old loom?

(Sorry if I'm thread hi-jacking sm6 :D )
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mihajlo
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Post by mihajlo » 05 Dec 2005 09:52 pm

well I would take some 2.3l engine from 700 / 900 model and ECU and fuel pump as well so it sems not to be such problem :wink:
what about power steering in that case?
what about lowering front end? do I have to take shorter and stiffer springs? (any sugestions?) :?:

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Post by haak » 09 Dec 2005 01:11 am

Weld your diff, I have done that on mine. Its not a big problem under normal driving. I have only tried 155 tires, it would probably be a bit whorse with 195 or something like that. But when youre going too drift a little its very easy to controll the car.

Sorry for my bad english, I hope you understand me :wink:

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Post by Ronnie » 10 Dec 2005 02:34 pm

Doesn't a welded diff cause problems at low speed, like when parking with lots of lock?
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Post by ChrisW » 10 Dec 2005 05:38 pm

Ronnie wrote:Doesn't a welded diff cause problems at low speed, like when parking with lots of lock?
Yes

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Ali
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Post by Ali » 10 Dec 2005 06:00 pm

Well..... it can cause initial understeer into corners but thats going to be dependant on your corner entry speeds and it'll clunk and scrub when parking but thats just the tyres skipping. It'll also wear out your tyres a bit earlier due to this skipping but its not really going to eat them up quickly, I only paid £35 for a new tyre so its not big money anyway. Its just dependant on what you plan to use the car for really, if you have to do a lot of miles everyday and your just struggling with traction I wouldn't bother, if its for drift use and your mileage is quite low then go for it :wink: . I'm stuck in the middle as I do about 50miles a day but i'd really like to get it locked so that I can get along to some practise days, does anyone know how hard it is to change the diff? Just have a seperate open and welded unit and swap it over for practise days? Even if it takes a couple of hours to do i'd still go for it,
cheers
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