Can you smell fresh meat?

Post by **Carl** » 25 Mar 2006 04:15 pm

These moon things - are they made of rubber? If so I may already have them in a gasket set I bought a while back. That would be handy!!

Post by **jtbo** » 25 Mar 2006 07:19 pm

Carl wrote:These moon things - are they made of rubber? If so I may already have them in a gasket set I bought a while back. That would be handy!!

I'm not sure, I think that there can be metal and rubber versions, but it is maybe around 1cm thick 'plug' for that hole. In Volvo software it looks like fullmoon and it has edges like it would be U-Shaped side profile if cut to half.
I think all my cylinderheads had that made in metal, can't check very well as cylinder heads are behind my cellar warehouse(eh, word lost again?) Anyway it would take few hours for me to get access to them and would need to move ton of stuff out and back in...

Volvo part # 1336763

Post by **Carl** » 25 Mar 2006 07:44 pm

No worries, I'll figure it out when I take them apart

Post by **pettaw** » 25 Mar 2006 08:52 pm

If you're talking about what I think you're talking about then its a hard plastic thingy, you put special silicone sealant round it and then it fits in the end of the camshaft.

Post by **jtbo** » 25 Mar 2006 09:00 pm

pettaw wrote:If you're talking about what I think you're talking about then its a hard plastic thingy, you put special silicone sealant round it and then it fits in the end of the camshaft.

I think that what you think about what we are talking about is what you are talking about, so you are very right here, hmm, why I feel now confused ?!?

Post by **foggyjames** » 29 Mar 2006 12:07 am

Carl wrote:If you want power your best option is to install a whole new redblock engine - something from a 740 or 940 would be best. You've got plenty of choices, off the top of my head: 2.3i 8v, 2.3i 16v, 2.0i 8v turbo, 2.3i 8v turbo. The normally aspirated engines would more or less bolt straight in and match up to everything, you'd just need to swap the ECU and wiring. The turbo lumps are a bit more difficult as I believe you have to make up a new exhaust manifold/downpipe.

^^^ What he said.

Carl...also consider picking up an older 240 ignition setup with a mechanical dizzy. That's what I've been planning to go for for eternity, but I'd like to sort out my fuelling issues first.

cheers

James

Post by **jtbo** » 29 Mar 2006 12:16 am

I think that you need to tune fueling again after you have installed ignition, changed quite a lot at least for me.

Basicly I'm running now with ignition from 240, just with modified timing map of renix. I have plan to find dizzy from 240 and test how car would run with that and carb, but this have to wait to undetermined point in furure.

Post by **Cruisen Volvo** » 29 Mar 2006 03:58 pm

Has anyone put a B230FT into a 360 GLT

Post by **jtbo** » 29 Mar 2006 04:30 pm

Cruisen Volvo wrote:Has anyone put a B230FT into a 360 GLT

http://mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/360s/kevin.html

Maybe useful bit of info there?

Post by **cam740** » 05 Apr 2006 04:50 am

Cruisen Volvo wrote:Has anyone put a B230FT into a 360 GLT

G'day mate, good to see another aussie gettin into 360s...

I've got a 360glt with a B23E in it and was quite happy with the performance gains i got outta it - till i put it on a dyno and only got an extra 16kw - although that DID equate to around 35% increase!!!!

but we will hopefully solve that with a cold air intake, exhaust system with extractors and a worked 531 head all going on in the next few months!!!

where abouts in country vic are ya heading to???

Post by **jtbo** » 05 Apr 2006 11:51 am

Cold air intake, that won't do much of any improvement, sounds cool and all ricer boyz are looking with respect, but almost that it is

Unless you have replaced original air filter with some freeflowing thing that takes air next to exhaust manifold, which I have seen several times

531 head is at least in here very expensive and would be cheaper to put turbo in, also would give ton more power too

*Antiricer faction does it again*

Post by **cam740** » 06 Apr 2006 12:25 am

jtbo wrote:Cold air intake, that won't do much of any improvement, sounds cool and all ricer boyz are looking with respect, but almost that it is

Unless you have replaced original air filter with some freeflowing thing that takes air next to exhaust manifold, which I have seen several times

531 head is at least in here very expensive and would be cheaper to put turbo in, also would give ton more power too

*Antiricer faction does it again*

the main reason i'm going to a cold air intake is to remove most of the fcuked up plumbing across the front of the car and then i can put the thermo fan and the adj cam gear on

and we'll be using a VN commodore intake - which if nothing else makes the bastard WAY cheaper to replace!!!

here to get the thing turbo'd we'd be lookin at MASSIVE amounts of money. like around $5k plus (with someone else doin the work)

the 531 with some work done to it should set me back no more than $1500 installed, and insurance then doesn't ram me!!!

Post by **jtbo** » 06 Apr 2006 12:34 pm

Shit, I have 2nd thoughts moving that place then

Cost to install turbo here in finland if you do it yourself with ghetto style.
exhaust manifold 60-120€
turbo 150-300€
little pipes, flanges etc stuff maybe 100€ could be less.
Extra oilpan 5€
oilpan to welder that may ask couple bottles of beer for welding, maybe less

And if you really like to get power new injectors 100-150€
Easily 200HP with that, put intercooler in (maybe 100€) and you can start replacing differential every month and so

250hp rather easy to get.

Insurance is not interested even a bit, but MOT is pita if car is 1987 or newer.

531 head in otherhand is alone costing 500-1500€ depending from seller as usually with used parts, there is lot of range in prices. Make it ported and installed would cost easily another 1K.
Still stock injectors start to be small around 140-150hp, maybe before and stock 530 head is enough for that power, imo. 530 head costs 50-80€

Camshaft is easiest and cheapest way to get power out from NA engine, then bigger valves, after that comes other stuff.

Post by **Fuse** » 06 Apr 2006 06:08 pm

Intake piping can take more than 100 euros easily..

Surprisingly costly, just like the wiring parts when installing amplifiers. Piping parts can cost much especially if you are using silicone connection bits and heavy duty clamps which cost like 4-6 euros a piece. 1 metre of proper size silicone hose costs like 100euros alone.. Rubber ones are then cheaper, 20 euros a metre.

I also thought that "I'll just go and buy those bits.. those can't be too expensive" but as I noticed they were..

On boost side I would need something like ~10 clamps and heavy duty bolt clamps cost ~5 euros a piece so ~50 euros on clamps alone... Of course then there are those cheap screw/sheet-metal type thingies which cost some ten cents (which I currently have) but I'm tired of those because they always max out when tightening and are crappy in all other ways too. And they don't look as cool as these http://www.roadraceengineering.com/part ... -tbolt.jpg

Post by **jtbo** » 06 Apr 2006 06:28 pm

I did not think about new parts, but used from some old turbo 200

But still it would be lot cheaper than 531 route in here, specially when thinking performance gain.

If I would have money, I would get big valve conversion done to one of my 530 heads and new injectors, also 36-1 wheel to crank so I could solve rpm problem easily, then I would have 150+hp, little porting and other tweaks to 530 head, new exhaust manifold and maybe possible to get 160-170. That would be pretty much everything that is possible without balancing crank and other moving parts.
I do have K-Cam and megasquirt now, around 130-140hp now as I have ignition control too, was 130hp with bad renix.
So almost stock engine and not very expensive mods, specially if you have injection model to start with.