Hi guys im in need of some pointers...

I replaced my renix unit with another 411 unit.The unit which i bought is working as my dad tested the devices using an oscilloscope...i also replaced the HT leads and distributor a while ago.Im getting fuel and I even pretty much sorted out the fuel system and relay-buying a replacement as a back up.

Im slighlty confused dotcom atm as the ruddy car... ... is still not getting any spark to the spark plugs even though the flywheel sensor is recieving a pulse (oscillosope tested) and there is power to the renix. Hmmm anyone with any ideas- I will be truly greatful.

Cheers Ed.

If you take the spark wire, that comes from the Renix and goes to the distributor, and hold it almost to the chassis of the car does it spark?
If it doesn't the spark wire is broke or your Renix has passed away
If it does take a spark wire off a plug and hold the plug to the chassis and see if it sparks
If it doesn't try an other maybe a spark wire is broke, or take a look at the distributor and rotor? [that thing inside the distributor] one or both of them could be faulty.
Good luck!

does the kinglead give a spark if you hold it near a ground?
if not; check if the renix has both power and ground (blue wire is 12V on ignition; orange is ground)
if that's ok; replace the flywheel sensor allthough the oscilloscope says it's ok.

if it does give a spark on the kinglead; remove the dizzy and crank the engine to see if the rotor turns along. if it holds steady and doesn't turn; the oilpump has seized causing the dizzy/oilpump drivegear to snap; cheapest/easyest solution in that case is an engine conversion.

Anjo thanks for the extra info, I didn't know that about the dizzy/oilpump drivegear snap

Many many thanks guys Im going to check some of the things you both suggested. Im hoping the engine isnt buggered as the bodywork is pretty tatty and the engine seems to be its saving grace to fixing it up-but an engine conversion would be amazing I'll probably write something once ive tried what you guys have suggested Thanks again guys

Bummer the replacement renix didn't sort it. Good idea to trace the spark through the dizzy.

Other suggestions
Check the plug lead are wired in correct firing order (it all seemed to stop after you replaced the leads).

Firing order 1,3,4,2
Cyl 1 = nearest radiator

On the dizzy connections;
Cly 1 nearest thermostat
Cyl 2 nearest front left headlight
Cyl 3 Nearest inlet on head
Cly 4 Nearest throttle body

Turn the engine to TDC, using marking on pulley, check dizzy rotor is pointing at cly 1.

Also have you checked the alternator output / battery voltage? has the alternator damaged the old renix? Max 14v

Also looking at your old posts, you mention dash intermittent and flickering and other electrical stuff.. check your battery earth strap, it should be bolted to the chassis beside the battery base toward the front of the car. It should be clean and tight.

Thanks for the info on the HT leads setup Tony haha i'll better check that-I have a feeling it might be something really silly that ive done... I will report back with my findings Thanks for the pointers.

Rightyo-im working through the suggestions you guys have suggested.

Today I checked the order of the HT lead plug connections following the order posted in this thread (cheers Tony .
The leads were connected completley on correctly-when the car broke down it had the old leads and cap+rotor arm still in-after the RAC guy rescued it we put in new cap,rotor arm and leads (the wrong way lolz).

I will need a new kinglead as it looks shagged and the cap end plug is corroded aswell as a new battery earthstrap and battery positive terminal as these are all knackered-now i can afford to do it i will get these parts.
I managed to fix the flickering dash etc and the central locking etc all works after cleaning the contacts one afternoon
Im pretty sure both renix units are ok-but i will test the input to see if its the correct amount of voltage-im guessing if it was not enough then the plugs wouldnt spark or am i wrong? Im very curious-sorry for my numptyness

Im pretty sure the dizzy is tunring as when i cranked it and removed one of the plugs to test for spark it sounded different (3 cycles versus 4 when all are plugged in). I will do the check though to see if the rotor is turning-think it is though.If the flywheel sensor is not working to its full potential-would this cause the plugs to not recive spark or is it just purely the signal?

Sos for all the questions-probs seems v. obvious to you guys

Edcase 300 wrote: as a new battery earthstrap and battery positive terminal as these are all knackered-now i can afford to do it i will get these parts.

These are (as normal) NLA. I recommend finding a local boat electrician chap, they make bespoke leads of the type you require.

I was thinking of just going universal with these parts is that a bad idea?
I cant think of any local boat electricians near me as im not quite on the coast but it might be worth me getting hold of one if needs be...
Cheers for the pointer dude

Simple check to see if the dizzy is seized. Take of the cap, put it in gear and rock the car back and forth, it should move. If it doesn't there is your problem, but i doubt it will be this as you say it had been running fine beforehand.

For the battery leads, the random Halfords style ones I've seen always screw up around the battery plugs, the screw down onto the cable type just don't seem up to the job.

I got my boat sparky friend to make me some up and he put these

on, I've not had any issues. I can always ask if he would mind doing a set, no idea on if he can atm or price if so though.

A good trick is to try and start the engine in complete darkness, after your eyes have become accustom to the dark. You can then see HT leakage as glowing or corona. It also a good check when the engine is running to see the state of the HT system. Often you will see leakage at the metal clips that hold the leads on. With new leads and everything in tip top condition you should not see anything.