has anyone found a crafty way to get the drive shafts off the diff?
or just a case of loads of wd40 and a hammer to scare them out?

Breaker bar, socket converter and allen key socket end. Never failed me!

i thought that would be the way! nothing crafty then?

No, just make sure you hammer in the allen key bit. If it doesn't go deep enough it will round the end of the allen thread off.

Make sure it's a socket set hex bit, not a hex key too.

There are 2 type of bolt. hex bolt (newer) and allen key (older). Advice as above to clean out the allen key and use a 1/2" or 3/8" allen key socket converter. Use a 6 sided 3/8" socket for the hex ones. They will be tight.

Do the diff end first and use the breaker bar to jam the wheel studs to the ground. If you have removed the wheel end first put it back on. Then use at least a 3/8" wrench with extension and work in the wheel arch to remove the diff end.

cheers guys, so the newer ones have been converted to bolts?

I don't think it's that way round, AFAIK, 360's have bolts, 340's have socket head caps screws.

Bolts ftw. Change to them whilst it's apart IMO. I never need anything more than a 10mm spanner and/or a 10mm socket on 1/4 drive ratchet to undo mine. Then the shaft just drops out of the drive flange.

The one's above sound tight!

Chris_C wrote:I don't think it's that way round, AFAIK, 360's have bolts, 340's have socket head caps screws.

Ah that could be it, havn't worked on 340 CV joints for a while.

L14MNP wrote:Bolts ftw. Change to them whilst it's apart IMO. I never need anything more than a 10mm spanner and/or a 10mm socket on 1/4 drive ratchet to undo mine. Then the shaft just drops out of the drive flange.

The one's above sound tight!

I completely ruined a Teng 1/4" swivel bar on CV bolts (twisted then broke at the square drive), there were really tight! !/2" sockets are too thick to fit with the rubber boot. 3/8" long sockets work the best for me.

Ride_on wrote: 3/8" long sockets work the best for me.

+1

its so annoying! as you said the rubber boot gets in the way! bolts would be so much easier!!

Jack the car up so the axel drops away, then undo the top bolts whilst someone stands on the brakes. Then rotate the shaft and do the bottom ones when they get to the top.

Just remember the brakes only act on one side of the shaft, so inboard side undone first.

why let someone step on the brakes?

use one hand to block the wheel and the other on the bolts