grease cap removal
grease cap removal
haynes suggests tapping with a screwdriver but i'm at a loss to see how this would work. suggestions?
1986 1.4DL - 147,000 - C746 VRT
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I take it your talking about the grease caps that cover the wheel bearings,
when you look at the cap there should be a lip where it butts up against the hub ,
usually you put a screwdriver between the back of that lip and the hub and tap it gently in whilst twisting the screwdriver slowly therefore prising the cap out ,
dont tap the screwdriver in too hard or would could damage / distort the cap
you can see a dust cap top left of this picture and the lower edge is what fits inside the bearing carrier ( its just a tight push fit or may need a gentle tap to put back in ) the picture gives you an idea of what you cant see when its fitted

when you look at the cap there should be a lip where it butts up against the hub ,
usually you put a screwdriver between the back of that lip and the hub and tap it gently in whilst twisting the screwdriver slowly therefore prising the cap out ,
dont tap the screwdriver in too hard or would could damage / distort the cap
you can see a dust cap top left of this picture and the lower edge is what fits inside the bearing carrier ( its just a tight push fit or may need a gentle tap to put back in ) the picture gives you an idea of what you cant see when its fitted


My prefered way of doing this is to get a small bit of wood and hold one end against the side of the cap near to the top end. Tap the other end of the wood with a hammer and the cap will loosen up without being damaged by direct contact with the hammer or a screwdriver.
1988 340 1.4 GL, 218k, 5 door (Grey Bess). Gone to CBA.
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!
hehe, sorted the cap, got stuck on caliper bolts then it started to rain and i gave up. the two smaller probably un-related bolts came off no problem the larger 17s didn't want to know and there wasn't enough clearance to get the problem solver scaffold pole in for leverage.
may have to hassle you soonish mac for your torque wrench and air gun thing, don't like the idea of brakes done up to what i think might be ok and find the wheels catching fire and falling off twenty minutes later.
regards
may have to hassle you soonish mac for your torque wrench and air gun thing, don't like the idea of brakes done up to what i think might be ok and find the wheels catching fire and falling off twenty minutes later.
regards
1986 1.4DL - 147,000 - C746 VRT
The "unrelated" "smaller" bolts are probably the caliper sliding pin bolts - the large "17's" attach the caliper carrier to the strut and must come off to get the disc/hub off. As you have realised the disc bolts to the inner face of the hub (really usefull!!).
IMPERATIVE that disc to hub mounting face is absolutely clean when fitting disc. Disc to hub bolts torque to 47Nm
When refitting hub torque wheel bearing nut to 55Nm, then SLACKEN nut 90deg and stake nut - use a NEW nut! - Yes I do have "in stock".
Caliper carrier bolts torque to 123Nm, pin bolts to 33Nm.
If in doubt - shout.
Mac.
IMPERATIVE that disc to hub mounting face is absolutely clean when fitting disc. Disc to hub bolts torque to 47Nm
When refitting hub torque wheel bearing nut to 55Nm, then SLACKEN nut 90deg and stake nut - use a NEW nut! - Yes I do have "in stock".
Caliper carrier bolts torque to 123Nm, pin bolts to 33Nm.
If in doubt - shout.
Mac.
Tut tut Mick, it's not Mac that's newly bald - observe the full stop before Mac.
Mac facilitates all things - the newly bald receives - There is however a strong rumour going about that Vart has mislaid his dreadlocks (although this has yet to be confirmed visually).
On the other hand I do seem to be thinning out somewhat - can I get away with a "comb over" ??? - or probably in my case a comb forward as most of what's left is in the ponytail.
The "not quite yet bald" Mac.
Mac facilitates all things - the newly bald receives - There is however a strong rumour going about that Vart has mislaid his dreadlocks (although this has yet to be confirmed visually).
On the other hand I do seem to be thinning out somewhat - can I get away with a "comb over" ??? - or probably in my case a comb forward as most of what's left is in the ponytail.
The "not quite yet bald" Mac.
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- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 5432
- Joined: 05 Oct 2004 10:18 am
- Location: MILTON KEYNES , ENGLAND
Off topic I know , but I havent combed or brushed my hair since I was 15 years old I seriously believe it strains the roots lol,mac wrote: On the other hand I do seem to be thinning out somewhat - can I get away with a "comb over" ??? - or probably in my case a comb forward as most of what's left is in the ponytail..
I still have a full head of hair , no bald spots or biscuit despite two weddings , a divorce, four birth kids and two foster kids .
I have a few grey hairs now though


Which ones should I have loctitedpettaw wrote:Yeah, spot on advice from Mac, all these brakes things should be torqued up to torque with a torque wrench. Oooh, also don't forget to put loctite on the caliper bolts, the ones that tighten to 33Nm,





'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast