haynes suggests tapping with a screwdriver but i'm at a loss to see how this would work. suggestions?

I take it your talking about the grease caps that cover the wheel bearings,
when you look at the cap there should be a lip where it butts up against the hub ,
usually you put a screwdriver between the back of that lip and the hub and tap it gently in whilst twisting the screwdriver slowly therefore prising the cap out ,

dont tap the screwdriver in too hard or would could damage / distort the cap

you can see a dust cap top left of this picture and the lower edge is what fits inside the bearing carrier ( its just a tight push fit or may need a gentle tap to put back in ) the picture gives you an idea of what you cant see when its fitted

My prefered way of doing this is to get a small bit of wood and hold one end against the side of the cap near to the top end. Tap the other end of the wood with a hammer and the cap will loosen up without being damaged by direct contact with the hammer or a screwdriver.

any ideas for if there is no lip? its been pushed in too far so the top of the lip is flush with the surrounding metal of the hub.

lies, all of it

bogbasic's method worked a treat after i got a bigger hammer.

cheers bogbasic.

bring it around anything is possible (even for the newly bald).Mac.

mac wrote:(even for the newly bald).Mac.

oh no Gandalf what have you done now ? lol

( nice to see you back again , again Mac )

hehe, sorted the cap, got stuck on caliper bolts then it started to rain and i gave up. the two smaller probably un-related bolts came off no problem the larger 17s didn't want to know and there wasn't enough clearance to get the problem solver scaffold pole in for leverage.

may have to hassle you soonish mac for your torque wrench and air gun thing, don't like the idea of brakes done up to what i think might be ok and find the wheels catching fire and falling off twenty minutes later.

regards

The "unrelated" "smaller" bolts are probably the caliper sliding pin bolts - the large "17's" attach the caliper carrier to the strut and must come off to get the disc/hub off. As you have realised the disc bolts to the inner face of the hub (really usefull!!).

IMPERATIVE that disc to hub mounting face is absolutely clean when fitting disc. Disc to hub bolts torque to 47Nm

When refitting hub torque wheel bearing nut to 55Nm, then SLACKEN nut 90deg and stake nut - use a NEW nut! - Yes I do have "in stock".

Caliper carrier bolts torque to 123Nm, pin bolts to 33Nm.

If in doubt - shout.

Mac.

Tut tut Mick, it's not Mac that's newly bald - observe the full stop before Mac.

Mac facilitates all things - the newly bald receives - There is however a strong rumour going about that Vart has mislaid his dreadlocks (although this has yet to be confirmed visually).

On the other hand I do seem to be thinning out somewhat - can I get away with a "comb over" ??? - or probably in my case a comb forward as most of what's left is in the ponytail.

The "not quite yet bald" Mac.

Yeah, spot on advice from Mac, all these brakes things should be torqued up to torque with a torque wrench. Oooh, also don't forget to put loctite on the caliper bolts, the ones that tighten to 33Nm,

mac wrote: On the other hand I do seem to be thinning out somewhat - can I get away with a "comb over" ??? - or probably in my case a comb forward as most of what's left is in the ponytail..

Off topic I know , but I havent combed or brushed my hair since I was 15 years old I seriously believe it strains the roots lol,

I still have a full head of hair , no bald spots or biscuit despite two weddings , a divorce, four birth kids and two foster kids .
I have a few grey hairs now though

pettaw wrote:Yeah, spot on advice from Mac, all these brakes things should be torqued up to torque with a torque wrench. Oooh, also don't forget to put loctite on the caliper bolts, the ones that tighten to 33Nm,

Which ones should I have loctited I did the 17mm ones to "murder it up" torque... but thats about it.