Kardan problem

Post by **Colex** » 09 Dec 2007 08:20 am

Hi!

I have a 86' Volvo 360 GLE 1.7 which for 2-3 years wasn't started up, because the kardan (transmission tube, don't know how to say it in english, i'm from croatia

) was moving, but the rear tires wasn't moving.
The problem is in the "teeth" where the kardan and the rear axle connects.

New kardan is too costy, some solutions?

P.S. Obviously, it's not my only car, I thought it will be great to convert it in a free (or very low cost) drift machine. Please give also some recommendation what to do for the best lo cost drift conversion.

Thanks and sorry for the crappy english.

Post by **filthyjohn** » 09 Dec 2007 12:45 pm

Hello and welcome.
I think kardan is prop shaft, and it sounds like there is a problem with the splines ('teeth') on the rear end of the shaft. Can you be a bit more specific about the problem, for example, if you select a gear and try to drive, is there a noise from the gearbox? Is it the same in all five gears?
The gearbox on a 340 is strong so it probably isn't that. If the propshaft is ok I'd say it was a damaged differential.
I hope this helps.

Post by **foggyjames** » 09 Dec 2007 06:01 pm

I bet it's the infamous 'link piece' between the prop shaft (within the torque tube) and the box.

The best thing to do is take it apart, and see what you're faced with.

cheers

James

Post by **Colex** » 10 Dec 2007 01:08 pm

I already take it apart a few years ago, and the splines were damaged, used. But, i pushed it into the slot a little bit more than usual and it worked for a few months, than it stopped. I will take it down and make a couple of pics.

P.S. If it's 1,2,3,4,5 it works like it's in neutral.
2P.S. I think that the only solution is a new prop shaft. In the local scrapyards i didn't find it, so how much it costs new?

Post by **classicswede** » 10 Dec 2007 02:20 pm

It does sound like the prop shaft have lost the splines. A good s/h one would cost about £25 - £50 + maybe anther £25 - £40 to send to you. I'd be happy to help you out with shipping to you if needed.

If that is to much there is a way to botch it. You could weld the prop onto the gearbox spines. When the weld or or prop breakes further it will make it hard work to fix but it is a way to make the car go again. If you do weld it only make a little weld at a time as it will get very hot and the rubber will burn in the prop.

Best thing is to replace if you can afford it.

Post by **Colex** » 10 Dec 2007 09:45 pm

Ok, 99% it is the propshaft, but i will make pics just to be 100% secure.

This is not my only car, actually this volvo wasn't droved for 6-7 years (after that it was droved every month, to keep it in good condition, and i didn't give it away because it has a sentimental value). But, now i decided it to turn it into an race car (it's pretty ambitious, isn't it?

). I would like to rip off all the unnecessarily weight and boost a little bit the engine, or remove it for an newer one.

So, what you actually recommend me to do to loose weight and boost power. I have some ideas, but i would like to hear yours.

P.S. I live 30km from Italy (Trieste), if someone knows, does anywhere in italy exist some kind of low cost race where i could thrash my 360?

Cheers.

Post by **foggyjames** » 12 Dec 2007 08:06 pm

Argh....I mis-read....it's a 360 1.7...I just read 360 and assumed it was a 2.0.

In that case, it's a much more common problem, and luckily relatively easily fixed!

cheers

James

Post by **classicswede** » 13 Dec 2007 02:08 pm

The prop is a weak point that can cause problems more so with more power. If you have a good prop they will take a hammering but it's hard to get a very good one. New uprated props are available.

Engine wise put in either a 2 ltr form a volvo 400 or the renault 1.8 16v lump. Both are common conversions.