• few questions for you all....

Posted: **20 Feb 2008 09:38 pm**

first off all...
Hello im dan and im new

i own a 1.4 340 paid £50 for it, (bolts that hold diff in snapped) anyway...

this cars being used as a everyday car.. but i want to have some fun and slid around, as the car is standard i am finding it reli hard to hold it sideways so i want to weld the diff?? and 1 got a pictures of or a guide on how to do it??
secondly i want to lower it anyone no where i can cheap lowering blocked from? and i heard that its not wise to cut the 340 springs but 360 are fine to cut?
also a welded diff is goin to wreck tyres so can someone please tell me what wheels fit directly on my 340 i.e mk2 escort wheels? vauxhall nova wheels etc... comman tyre sizes like 185/45/14 because u can find them tyres everywhere cheap lol
thirdly anyone no if there is such a thing as a quick rack for these volvos??
and lastly thanks for ya help lol

Posted: **21 Feb 2008 02:29 pm**

Hi and Welcome,

I did not take pics of when I welded my diff up but it fairly stright forward. Try doing a search I'm sure pics have been posted. If you are using the car everyday and do a fair bit of milage I would not recomend welding the diff. You can get the car to drift quite well on a open diff.

You need to lower and stiffen the suspsion for best results (even 360 springs are to soft). I do sell all the parts needed but it does all mount up.

as far as I know there is not a quick rack available.

Posted: **21 Feb 2008 07:46 pm**

Welcome,
Firstly, no need for a quick rack.

its 4 turns lock to lock.

thats tight enough!!! espesialy on the handle courses i do..

wheel size, your looking at 4x100. which is renault, rover, old bmw, etc not ford or puegeot though.

regards to lowering, lowering blocks, can be brought from dai, or if you want to try cheapness look for mk 2 escort lowering blocks. but you will need new bolts etc.

springs dai's(classicswede) i think are resonaly priced at £55.

Posted: **27 Feb 2008 06:06 pm**

I did not take pics of when I welded my diff up but it fairly stright forward. Try doing a search I'm sure pics have been posted. If you are using the car everyday and do a fair bit of milage I would not recomend welding the diff. You can get the car to drift quite well on a open diff.

yea the car does drift on an open but only in the rain and with a welded diff they seem more under control with an open diff its alot harder

thanks for ya help guys i will post picts and that when i can do any off you lot go southend or basildon and anyone else from kent or am i only the only one lol??

Posted: **27 Feb 2008 06:07 pm**

wasnt ment to make that all i quote sorry

Posted: **06 Mar 2008 01:42 am**

The main reason you're struggling with holding it sideways is a lack of power. The B14 makes pretty good power for what it is, but it struggles to throw out the arse-end of almost a ton of car. Welding the diff might help, but I think you'll want to upgrade to 1.7 power at some point.

360 PAS racks are a fair bit quicker than manual ones...but they're heavier if you don't hook up the pump. Filling it with fluid and linking the pipes works, though. I can understand you wanting a faster rack - manual ones are like steering a bus!

cheers

James

Posted: **06 Mar 2008 03:32 am**

Yeah I was gonna say they're not quick enough, especially when you're going very sideways, as you can sometimes think you've straightened the wheel up, only to find it's 360 degrees from centre, and you're tankslapping towards a lamppost.

Posted: **07 Mar 2008 05:48 pm**

if it is lack of power what engine can i slot straight into it cheaply with more power without injection because thats just hassle lol preferably a 1.6/1.8 is without injection???? someone mentioned a renualt fuegato turbo engine?

Posted: **07 Mar 2008 06:02 pm**

Actually 4.8 turns lock to lock, it is damn slow when driving on circuit, seems to be better when having tail out as car countersteers automatically.

Posted: **07 Mar 2008 07:04 pm**

Most people fit the 1.8 from a Renault 19 16v. If you don't want to mess with EFI, run it on carbs (bike carbs, or Webers).

cheers

James

Posted: **07 Mar 2008 07:48 pm**

foggyjames wrote:The main reason you're struggling with holding it sideways is a lack of power. The B14 makes pretty good power for what it is, but it struggles to throw out the arse-end of almost a ton of car. Welding the diff might help, but I think you'll want to upgrade to 1.7 power at some point.

360 PAS racks are a fair bit quicker than manual ones...but they're heavier if you don't hook up the pump. Filling it with fluid and linking the pipes works, though. I can understand you wanting a faster rack - manual ones are like steering a bus!

cheers

James

Grow some muscles.

jtbo wrote:Actually 4.8 turns lock to lock, it is damn slow when driving on circuit, seems to be better when having tail out as car countersteers automatically.

accord to the tech book i have it works out at 4.13 intotal

foggyjames wrote:Most people fit the 1.8 from a Renault 19 16v. If you don't want to mess with EFI, run it on carbs (bike carbs, or Webers).

cheers

James

carbs are fun noise makers!

Posted: **08 Mar 2008 02:22 am**

Nothing to do with muscles...it's about being able to turn the wheel fast enough. I found it to be a bit of a scramble counter-steering in the 340, whereas I never had problems in the 360.

cheers

James

Posted: **08 Mar 2008 12:13 pm**

will a smaller wheel help?

Cheers
will

Posted: **08 Mar 2008 12:44 pm**

The sloppy strut tops dont help with steering!

Posted: **08 Mar 2008 01:24 pm**

kaos wrote: accord to the tech book i have it works out at 4.13 intotal

Ok, let's split fight to half, 4.4 in my mk3 by tech book, even I'm pretty sure I did read 4.8 from some Volvo propaganda or user manual

Green book should give definate answer and that is 4.13 for old variant and 4.4 to new variant, of course there is no any mention when model changed