'82 343 DLS: beyond the arctic circle

[trabitom99]

Thanks Rich! I should've checked while the dash was still out of course

Cheers

Tom

[macplaxton]

FIgure 37 near the bottom of this page: http://www.iftim.cn/BodyElectrical/Ligh ... htBulb.htm

I've just looked the green book up, funny they list those two pieces as separate parts:

VDO:
966326 - bulbholder, qty 15
942327 - bulb, qty 15

SMITHS twist-in round flange, square back (from ch. no. 582192 (LHD) and ch. no 576518 (RHD)) changed sometime during MY81:
3287130 - bulb socket, qty 15
942327 - bulb, qty 15

SMITHS push in rectangular flange, rectangular back (used from the start I think, I've also seen the holders on old Jags)
3267363 - bulb holder
942327 - bulb, qty 15 (replaces 3269547)

If you get a small screwdriver, methinks you can recycle the bases, using the previously mentioned 286 bulbs if they are easier to get you hands on and you enjoy faffing around. (I may have been stingy and done this)

The main 3 backlight bulbs on the Smiths has another number, I think these are slightly larger bulbs, rather than those 5mm minature ones.

[trabitom99]

Thanks Rich! From memory I think the DLS/GLS dash needs 21 bulbs in all, and yes, the later gauge clusters from 1983 have larger bulbs for the background lighting ...

Cheers

Tom

[macplaxton]

Your memory serves you well.

[trabitom99]

also missing the adjuster cable but that's another problem (or if someone has a spare... )

Just checked the part number for the clock reset wire 3276809

If it's any help the same one was used on the "standard" L/DL/GL dash ("early" ones anyway, when the reset/adjustment knob wasn't in the clock itself). I used to have one, but sold it with my vario unfortunately

Your memory serves you well.

Not as well as it should do these days, no great feat as I'd checked yesterday morning



Tom

[volvomania]

Anjo, Have you looked inside the dash yet?
Often the positioning nut comes off and the cable moves to the "dark voids inside the dash".

[Duvel78]

I'm not sure where this brown cable came from (on this pic between the steering column and the mounting for the clock adjuster cable). We searched for any missing spade connectors, but couldn't find any. The only think I could thing of was that it could have come from the blower switch (it only work's on "3", but I'm guessing that's the usual resistor pack problem) but at 11pm I couldn't face taking that part of the facia panel out as well ...



Tom

Quick check on my GLS, the brown cable is connected to... nothing! It's simply hanging inside of the steering column.

[trabitom99]

Thank you Aymat for clearing that up! Good to know ...

Cheers

Tom

[MCHUDD]

Hi Tom.
Didn't think my clock would cause so much exitment
How did you get on with the fuel gauge?
Cheers Mark.

[trabitom99]

I haven't driven the car since last Friday Mark ... Going for another test run on Saturday morning. I'll keep you updated ...

Cheers

Tom

[trabitom99]

Another test run on Saturday morning to the Nürburgring (just for a look, we didn't do a lap or anything although the kids would have liked to )

Autumn countryside in the Eifel hills ...








Not very much going on, we saw about ten cars pass, then the ring was closed for preparing a section of the Köln -> Ahrweiler Rally (missed that unfortunately due to a tight schedule):







The car is running very sweetly, and I love looking at the working clock The fuel gauge is definitly sticky though. I think there seems to be not enough gap between the the needle and the back of the gauge, you can see how the needles for the temp gauge and clock are causing a shadow, whereas the fuel gauge needle seems to be resting right against the back of the dial. That's all going to have to come apart again



More importantly: the heater valve seems to be leaking. It was a 20°C day, and you notice the warm air coming out of the vents. That's a bit of a bummer, since I replaced that a few years back, and it was closing nicely up until now ...

Tom

[SteveP]

Looks fantastic Tom! How far away is the Nürburgring from you? The surrounding roads look fantastic (and very autumnal!)

[MCHUDD]

Hi Tom.
Looks like you had a great trip.Glad the clock is working.
Cheers Mark.

[trabitom99]

Looks fantastic Tom! How far away is the Nürburgring from you? The surrounding roads look fantastic (and very autumnal!)

Thanks, Steve. The 'ring isn't far away, maybe 50-70kms depending on the route you take ...

Hi Tom.
Looks like you had a great trip.Glad the clock is working.
Cheers Mark.

So am I Mark I've got the old one packed up and ready, I'll just wait and see whether the fuel gauge can be fixed before sending the parcel on.

Tom

[trabitom99]

Spent another evening working on the car:

Out comes the instrument panel again, to sort out the fuel gauge. The needle was definitely bent inwards and was rubbing against the back of the panel - we were careful putting it all back together after the clock replacement, but maybe not careful enough!



Gently bent the needle back into position, stabilising the base of it near the coil so as not to damage anything:



That's better:

Apologies, thinking about those early Smiths dashes up to c. 1980 with the push in holders, the twist in holders with bulbs attached are:
12V 1.2W BX8.4d
e.g. OSRAM 2351 MFX6

Not being sure about whether the bulbs were soldered in or not, I ordered the Osram bulbs with attached holders:



IIRC it's a different story with later VDO instrument panels, but with this DLS/GLS dash we were able to separate the bulbs from the old holders after all (they're just a push-in fit and aren't soldered or anything) so I'd definitely recommend re-using the original holders if possible and just ordering the bulbs themselves as the holders are are very tight fit and you can't turn them in by hand. Nothing better than an original part!



Oh yes Working fuel gauge, lit up rev counter, and more working warning lamps



"Cannibalised" some other sockets for their working bulbs and used these to replace some dud ones around the heater control panel (there are three bulbs there in all). Removed the surrounding panel going by the green book (ashtray out, two screws around the ashtray, two screws at the top of the panel, taking care with the heater controls - don't want any rods slipping out!):



Great:



Speaking of heaters: the blower only works on "3" - more than likely it's the usual resistor pack problem. Removing the pack from a MkII heater box is easier said than done however. Removing the water tray is quite a challenge as the clips holding it in place are pretty rusty after 33 years and I didn't want to crack the old plastic drip tray thingy ...



It was hard getting screwdrivers, blades etc underneath the water tray, past the resistor pack etc to free up those rusty clips (top left in the picture, and that was an accessible one):





In my humble opinion, it is well and truly dud and will be forwarded on to mac in due course.

Another small heating issue temporarily fixed - the heater valve wasn't leaky, the control rod just needed a bit of adjusting:



I'm not convinced that the "MkIII heater valve in a MkII" solution is that great however (it all looks a bit precarious down there) but it'll do for now.

Cheers

Tom