ABBY the Vario - "repatriated" to Ireland 24/07/2014

[macplaxton]

Well yet another MOT has been breezed through. Although this time, I wasn't in attendance (actually I wasn't present last time either - the only 340 I've presented was VNDs). The 343 went in today in my absence and gained a pass with no advisories.

Tester was particularly impressed with the emissions figures. (I've never touched it) CO just 0.76% (4.5% max) HC 202ppm (1200ppm max). What I don't get is the approximate date of first use has been blundered again the same as last time (1/12/1992) At least I think he got the mileage right. Last test was logged at 14720 (when it was 14270). Now she's on 18431. Just emptied my wallet out yesterday for another year's tax. All to sit in the garage a fair amount of the time, but I like to a) get my mate to take it out for a run occasionally in my absence and b) have it always ready for action.

[volvosneverdie]

Great news dude!
Another pass with flying colours.

If you ever get tired of having the poor thing languishing in garaged gloom, I'll have the tinker off yer

[Chris_C]

Another pass with flying colours.

I reckon these fictitious passes with flying colours' don't actually exist and are all a ploy to wind me up

Well done though MP

[macplaxton]

No, this one wasn't fictitious. VNDs was, it that it was pass 1.5hrs after the initial test. (emissions+bulb and a wee advisory TO GET SOME PAINT 'N' UNDERSEAL ON! ) The trick is to prepare the car for the MOT rather than chuck it in, something which I didn't need to do on this occasion as Abby despite a couple of blemishes, is like a new car.

Next tasks (probably around December) are to put the 44 & GS through a voluntary* NCT.


*Not legally required here as they were both first registered before 1.1.1980.

[volvosneverdie]

........and a wee advisory TO GET SOME PAINT 'N' UNDERSEAL ON! )

A wee advisory!?

Try not to piddle on the floor.

Re: underseal - theres a hole in the sill (small) so theres no point undersealing it till thats welded.

So plan - get required welding done on next mot, THEN underseal everything when I KNOW its all good metal.

Is this stupidity?

(serious question)^

[macplaxton]

next mot

Small hole? Is that a real hole or a drain hole? Wouldn't wait until next MOT as you've got the whole of winter to make it enormous. Sort it sooner, rather than later, but either way load and loads of this before it goes waaaay bad:

Dintrol 3125 (60litre drum )

[volvosneverdie]

next mot

Small hole? Is that a real hole or a drain hole? Wouldn't wait until next MOT as you've got the whole of winter to make it enormous. Sort it sooner, rather than later, but either way load and loads of this before it goes waaaay bad:

Its a real hole near the front of the sill. Was a bit of rusty grott hanging down so i pulled and snapped it off, and there it was, a wee small hole.

I'll see if I can snag a pic.

[macplaxton]

I'll see if I can snag a pic.

Please do (which side by the way?)

[Speedy88]

If it's any consolation VND I've got a rather large sill hole by the rear jacking point that I'm avoiding until after Asia

[volvosneverdie]

I'll see if I can snag a pic.

Please do (which side by the way?)

off to snap now.

If it's any consolation VND I've got a rather large sill hole by the rear jacking point that I'm avoiding until after Asia

urrrgh.

rear JPS suck dude.

[volvosneverdie]

So, the case of the mysterious disapearing hole!

(there is no hole)

I think I might be going mental.

Think I mustve snapped some crud off the front JP and presumed it was a hole.

Heres a photo anyway.

[macplaxton]

Hole, schmole. That's a manky flange. Best thing would be try to stop/slow the grot down by getting something on it. Damn steel cars!

[jtbo]

Get wirebrush for drill and some lamellar disc to angle grinder, that is quick to fix, make it all shiny, no dark spots allowed, then some rust converter, some sanding, so it is clean again, rust converter is to slowdown rust in spots you will not reach enough well, then some primer, I'm using zink primer, some paint, black or any other colour will actually do, paint is sealant, that makes it water proof, then some sticky black bitumen, which then protects the paint so that paint (the seal) will not breach, you can do this in one day if in hurry, make it two to let everything dry properly, there is not hour worth of work really, but every chemical and layer must be dry, before one can continue, so it takes bit of time, no rain and no working at evening or early morning allowed, humidity of air should be under 60, less is better, you don't want to seal humidity between paint and metal

CO of under 1.0, I would say car runs bit lean, might be good to adjust it bit richer, 2.5 for redblocks is often where I have heard would be the sweetspot, but don't know about renault units, maybe 1.0-1.5? Lean mixture can be hard on valves as mixture will burn hotter, that is if I remember things correctly.

[Speedy88]

To eradicate moisture I find a hair-dryer or heat gun on the metal before application, shortly after application (but not too much, or the paint will crack) and then after the paint has dried, lots of heat. It appears to have worked for me so far.

[volvosneverdie]

Hole, schmole. That's a manky flange. Best thing would be try to stop/slow the grot down by getting something on it. Damn steel cars!

yup. dunno how I convinced myself otherwise.

P.s.

manky flange !

Get wirebrush for drill and some lamellar disc to angle grinder, that is quick to fix, make it all shiny, no dark spots allowed, then some rust converter, some sanding, so it is clean again, rust converter is to slowdown rust in spots you will not reach enough well, then some primer, I'm using zink primer, some paint, black or any other colour will actually do, paint is sealant, that makes it water proof, then some sticky black bitumen, which then protects the paint so that paint (the seal) will not breach, you can do this in one day if in hurry, make it two to let everything dry properly, there is not hour worth of work really, but every chemical and layer must be dry, before one can continue, so it takes bit of time, no rain and no working at evening or early morning allowed, humidity of air should be under 60, less is better, you don't want to seal humidity between paint and metal

I have plans similar to the above dude, thanks for the advice.
No exterior power is a problem, and I need to get a jack and axle stands.
Think next pay day will see the begining of Rust Attack!