Nimminz' GLT Turbo Daily

[Nimminz]

Cheers! Yeah I'll pop down when i'm free and have a car on the road, was walking back from college when i saw you this afternoon.

I'll double check the measurements and text you, decided we won't go for a proper spacer as grinding the inside of the bellhousing ever so slightly will solve the problem. So it's just the rings I need

John's bringing my centre section through tomorrow and I'll be finishing off the last few mechanical bits left, driveshafts, diff mounts, arb mounts, just a few things to check and tighten up, never know might have a test drive

[Nimminz]

Right, car now has a whole exhaust thanks mainly to John's fabbing skills.

We took it for a test drive with all the gauges in to monitor what's going on. Was slow to rev, like very slow, even when making boost and on WOT. Idles low, if you give a bit of throttle from idle it drops. Doesn't idle really really smooth. We did get some pinking on the test run, 3/4 throttle 4th gear 2000-2500 rpm on flat IIRC.

oh and it pisses oil out the cam shaft seal so that didn't help. Means the cam has to come out again but that's not the end of the world. could have something to do with using 5W50 fully synth.

Still, engine management lights not on and both LH2.4 and EZK ignition won't give me a fault code from the OBD port in the centre console

She's close. just having to work round college now. John's been down most days i think, i'd be a lot further from the end if he hadn't.

[Ride_on]

There is no engine MGT light, it is a lambda sensor light only, the o2 sensor input is out of range. Could be an air leak.
Also there is no obd2 system, if the engine was pre96 you could have brought the engine bay led module into the 360, post 96 you need to build a flashy light thing.

The scart like obd socket is a pretend obd2 that didn't fool the US authorities and provides less functionality than the earlier cars. This is the reason 940s were not sold in the US after 95.

[classicswede]

Why did you take the cam out in the first place?

The light is only a lambda light and does nothing like the modern OBD system.

Boost / air leak and cam timing are things I would be looking at first.

[Nimminz]

I didn't mean OBD in that way. i meant the on-board diagnostic socket (which it is)... Its the LED flashy thing out the engine bay, just it's mounted in MY centre console lol. it gave me the 1-1-1 codes for both LH and EZK meaning no faults

I was under the impression the 'check' light was lit for mostly, as you say o2 sensor stuff but also on the Fuel side: AMM fault code 121, Coolant temp signal missing code 123, on ignition side, EZK module fault code 142, knock sensor signal missing code 143, load signal missing code 144, then a few more for EGR. apparently all those throw up the engine check lamp? Pin 22 of the LH ecu, grounds the brown-white wire to dash C:9? also from the EZK module? or as it says in the 1994 volvo 940 green book on wiring "10/93 warning light, malfunction indicator lamp (MIL)" But I may well be wrong.

Still, it wasn't gonna light up anyways as i've connected the other end of it to earth rather than live lol

We swapped the head to one with sodium filled exhaust valves, but swapped back my A-cam rather than use the T-cam in that head.

Yeah boost / air leaks are a definate thing to look for but it was making a fair bit of boost. Cam timing too. We gonna check the Knock sensor mounting, Johns just been in touch and it's a torque critical item and i'm actually only 60% sure i tightened it at all lol

[Nimminz]

Right.

Found the problem to be the timing was a tooth out on the belt, have now sorted that. I did manage somehow to snap the locating pin at the end of the cam



Fixed that by cutting down a 5mm drill bit which seemed to just click in place, i smothered the end in epoxy resin and hammered it in.

Car runs absolutely fantastic now, just a water leak which is easy to sort and a leak out the instant gasket i'm using for a rocker cover. Cam seal wasn't leaking after all it was a cracked rocker cover!

Here's some random photo's off my phone


John, THE exhaust guy!




Filter relocation, may run an oil cooler in the future


Centre section


Makeshift gauge holder, OBD and engine check light

As far as we noticed on the last drive, I was getting 12-12.5 AFR on boost, ~14.5 at idle. Will check it properly when not getting amazed at the boost or stuck in traffic lol

Thanks for looking
Matt

[Ride_on]

My owners manual states the light is 'fault in exhaust emission control system' and is a lambda symbol.

[Nimminz]

could well be that, the set of diagrams i'm looking at could be from a different market, 'check' and lambda seem interchangeable through out what i've been looking at. all the conditions which make it come on are emmissions related or air fuel ratio at least.
undoubtedly worth having regardless.

the OBD device is pretty cool, we did all the tests and iirc the only thing it wouldn't do was fire the fuel pump or radio interference relay when it cycles through all the mechanical stuff. but they must work.

[Nimminz]

turned out to be timing belt being a tooth out. now runs perfect.

idles a tad wierd but reckon thats to do with having no speed sensor but is 100% livable with.

ran it for a day at 3psi, then we turned it up to 0.8 bar or 11.72 psi still works amazingly

will give a proper update later with some better pics

[classicswede]

Are you going a different path now on the brakes and coilovers now?

[Nimminz]

yeah, brakes are gonna be a bugger to fit if i want to keep things OEM look and i'd prefer reliability with using standard struts rather than coilovers, its a daily not a track car and i'm not after mega lows. If the brakes don't sell i'll look into using some FWD offset wheels and big ass spacers.

I also need cash lol.

Going Electric Power steering too, ripped the EPAS out my corsa and it looks to be good for the 300 column. Wiring doesn't seem to be too hard, i'll probably have it on a switch or something. Gonna use a manual rack i have and replace the track rods as they seem a tad loose.

Gearbox is starting to feel like it has a bit of play, gonna look into how to recon one or at least dial a bit of backlash out of it, fit it with some sensors as i'm hoping to build an arduino powered datalogger

Loads i need to sort it's leaking oil out of everywhere and coolant too. Really wanna get the standard airbox in and tidy everything up.

Recent changes to the car:
MIM 15" alloys all round
Standard GLT front splitter
Standard looking backbox
Changed the turbo water line as it wasn't in right being at the top of the coolant tank
Took off the chavvy tow strap and some stickers
Bought a 480 guage pod with boost, oil press and voltage for OEM's
Bought a 700 series CR3001 radio
Removed harnesses

Cheers for looking

[macplaxton]

Bought a 700 series CR3001 radio.

forgot I was meant to be looking for instructions for that...

[Nimminz]

Few quick picture based updates


Changed both front wheel bearings


Got some gauges from Madseb can also see my AFR gauge (still gotta change the colour to green and Engine check light shining away, threw a 1,4,4 code for load signal missing :/ will check that wire between ECU / ICU


Fixed an exhaust blow from a clamped join by welding it up, then wrapped the centre section


Centre and rear sections


Found i was missing a dipstick o-ring so made a replacement from some rubber hose


The current state of my interior, ECU's instead of gloveboxes and gauges, lights and Diagnostics connectors wedged in with a packet of sweets and me cr3001 stereo which don't play tapes

Still got water / oil leaks but i'm woring on it

[zack360]

Nice dashboard.