'85 360 GLS

[Ride_on]

Awesome, you don't want to modify that originality. I'm doing the B230FT in a show(ish) car but I am spoiling it with a heavy clutch, a slow starter and no torque at tickover at best. Never mind ruining the reliability. As a penance I might fuel inject the B200K and stick it in the 940.

Incidentally a lot of my spares came from an 85 GLS it was a good year, real fun car to drive.

[SteveP]

Don't get me wrong, I have thought about it - but as I said I'm not supposed to be keeping this car, it's supposed to just be a re-commission project Saying that, if things go badly when I open it all up - a B230 N/A with suitable carb would make a nice upgrade.

I thought someone would take an interest in the head unit It also has some period pioneer rear speakers fitted in the B pillars and a Pioneer fader control.

[macplaxton]

It also has some period pioneer rear speakers fitted in the B pillars

No it bloody well doesn't! (It's got them fitted in the "C" pillars/posts - go back to pillar class and learn your A,B,C and D )

Dual cone TS-465 or two-way TS-466?

[SteveP]

Haha.. errr.. yeah, C pillars! No idea - I'll investigate!

[Chris_C]

Rupert, it's only really you and Chris that don't like the B200K and I seem to remember you've only driven later low compression examples

I don't discriminated, I think all red blocks are over flywheeled and all down drafts I've driven aren't as good as as the variable venturi's!

The 200K just happens to be the one that has both!

I think you are taking the correct approach, I'd be having the head off for a look. Given how little a HG will cost you, a bit of time might get you a lovely running car. Engine swaps are never as simple as you want them to be, especially an injected turbo where a carb once was, and not needed in something like this!

[SteveP]

Cheers Chris - I certainly agree about over-flywheeled, they're a bit of a joke - then again the B19A was too

Actually, an aside I know but what I've been meaning to check is what diff this car has in it. My old B19A GLS had a 3.64 - which was a surprise at the time (and doubt it had been swapped out), so I'd imagine this is a 3.36 as it's really a Mk3 in Mk2 drag. I don't think an injected turbo would suit this car, a B230 on Twin Webers however....

[bogbasic]

What's that thing in front of the expansion tank - is it a bugler alarm or something ;-?

[SteveP]

Yeah, it's an alarm - it also has a massive motion sensor on the dash

[SteveP]

Well, things have happened (just about...)



Current state of play is inlet is off, all but one exhaust manifold nuts are undone and I've been able to identify the problem. Now I've dismantled it enough to spin the engine over by hand, it looks like the inlet valve on number one is sticking - too tight in the guide or spring issue? I've made a quick video, hopefully you'll be able to make it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WG_HhU5wXuM

I'm having to wait to borrow the Volvo special crank locking tool. Strangely the CPS bracket bolts are not 10/11mm jobbies like the GLT has and I haven't been able to get them undone with anything I've got.

Any tips for reaching the final downpipe to manifold nut!? The one 'above' the actual exhaust pipes. I've tried with a long extension and u/j but haven't been able to find the correct angle - presumably I need two long extensions with the U/J between them and access it behind the crossmember?

[Ride_on]

I can't remember how to get the downpipe nuts off exactly but they can be pretty tight, you need good purchase and a 6 sided socket. Have resorted to angle grinder occasionally.

That valve is weird, slow to move, definitely increasing friction as it moves up. I'm thinking contamination/fuel/oil varnish on the bottom of the stem. A good clean should fix it.

You can lock the crank with a screw driver from below in the ring gear. Just take off the front plate.

[bogbasic]

Hello, I think I managed to do that with an extension and/or a wobble bar from underneath but one the studs broke (year 7 of my blog). I can't help noticing that you need a cover on that strut-top nut.

[SteveP]

Thanks for the tips both Two of the downpipe nuts came off ok, left them soaking in penetrating oil and a combination of long extension and U/J with a breaker bar cracked them off and they were fine (albeit tight), it's just getting the access to the other - perhaps I just need to get the front of the car higher with a longer extension so I can reach it from further back.

I think you're right Ride_on - looking through the inlet port with the manifold now removed that valve does look a bit more 'varnishy' than the others - which incidentally all seem to move freely.

Is it also par for the course to get the head skimmed before refitting? In this instance it seems unnecessary to me, but most people seem to recommend it whenever removing the head - I certainly have absolutely no concerns of the existing condition of the head gasket as the oil and coolant are perfectly clean. I'd like to err on the side of caution but I really don't think it's needed in this case.

Oh and Bogbasic - yep you're right! Maybe once it's on the road

[Ride_on]

If the head is not corroded on the blank waterway near no 4.(hole in head gasket but not in head) then I'd leave skimming. Its only really if it was overheated and/or gasket failed. Ideally you should check it with a engineers flat edge.

[V6 Man]

Given you've got a sticky valve type issue I'd be tempted to strip the head down (cam out, tappets out, colletts out, valves out etc) and send the head off for hot tank/skimming. It should be less than £30 and at least you'll know that it'll all be ok on reassembley assuming you clean up the valve stems/tappets/colletts etc. Lapping valves in is not Rocket Salad and at least you'll know it's all clean and sorted properly.

[JFB]

Nice car