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SteveP
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Post by SteveP » 06 Jun 2007 01:47 pm

Your linkage could be buggered - it makes a huge difference to gearchange when it's working correctly :D Should be pretty much no 'slack' atall
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shimon340
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Post by shimon340 » 06 Jun 2007 02:33 pm

nice!!
Enjoy your 300s

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Roop
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Post by Roop » 06 Jun 2007 05:10 pm

SteveP wrote:Your linkage could be buggered - it makes a huge difference to gearchange when it's working correctly :D Should be pretty much no 'slack' atall
I do get lots of clanking and clunking from behind me when I change gear... I assumed it was normal! Can the linkage be adjusted?
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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 07 Jun 2007 01:04 am

Clanking and clunking?.....normal?......did you formally own a Ford? sm56

There's not really any adjustment in it. It'll most likely either be a worn mount (or any number of things on the rear end, to be fair), or a snapped linkage. The latter will need welding back together to be 'tight', but shouldn't stop you changing gear.

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James
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Post by germ » 07 Jun 2007 02:27 pm

How quick should the gear changes be?

they seam pritty legerly. go in alright but seam slow if rushed no chance to get in gear...

but then maybe i have no oil in my gearbox....or maybe its sludge

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petefarrell360
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Post by petefarrell360 » 07 Jun 2007 04:26 pm

Because of the way the linkage works it is a little agricultural and slowish due to how far back the gearbox is, but it works and rushing it won't really help. It's possible to do a slick and quick gear change in a 300 with a decent condition linkage, just don't force it.

Pete
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Roop
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Post by Roop » 07 Jun 2007 11:04 pm

Thanks, chaps. I don't find the gears are that slow or difficult to engage as long as I try and match the revs between gears and use smooth, gentle actions :oops:.
Listening more carefully, the majority of the noises happen if I come off the clutch a bit too quickly, especially at low revs. Seems to work okay for what I want to do, so I'm not intending to sort it out unless something breaks. I was really just trying to point out that Josh's 340 is really nice and smooth to drive. :)
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MJ
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Post by MJ » 08 Jun 2007 06:06 pm

foggyjames wrote:Clanking and clunking?.....normal?......did you formally own a Ford? sm56
Heh, my mum drove my uncles old Escort (late 80's model) a few weeks ago and wondered what all the rattling in the back was. She opened the boot later expecting to find a box of cans for recycling or something, but it was empty :lol:
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Post by A M R » 08 Jun 2007 07:17 pm

hmm yeh 1st and 2nd are a bit of a pain in the arse, which means acceleration becomes crap - but the ratios are shite so its crap anyway.

after 2nd, the gears are all nice and smooth and you can shift pretty quick and then once it hits 4k in 3rd, its like 'VTAK just kicked in y0!' and it flies...

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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 09 Jun 2007 12:41 am

The syncros on 1st are usually pretty fussy (i.e. tricky to downshift at a decent speed), but a sticky 2nd is usually indicative of something up.

The ratios would be fine if the car had some power...but it hasn't....silly grandpa spec cars :-D

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...

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Roop
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Post by Roop » 09 Jun 2007 06:21 pm

AMR... are you heel-toeing? I find downshift into second is a piece of cake as long as you get the revs up first.
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Post by A M R » 09 Jun 2007 08:13 pm

im talking about when upshifting from 1st gear into 2nd. its a painin the arse if youre trying to shift quickly because it really doesnt want to do it. you have to give it a lot of force. if youre shifting normally then its fine.

heel-toeing down to 2nd is no problem. smooth as you like mate.

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SteveP
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Post by SteveP » 09 Jun 2007 08:32 pm

How are people heel/toe-ing? Ive found the brake/accelerator pedals too close and the steering wheel too close to my legs to have any attempt at it :(
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MJ
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Post by MJ » 09 Jun 2007 08:55 pm

Well it's really left side of toe on the brake, and right side of the middle of the foot on the throttle. It's quite tricky and takes some practice, but it's very rewarding when you can get it right and do a heal and toe and double clutch in one smooth motion.

In fact I was in the process of doing that a week or two ago, got distracted and ended up getting second gear without using the clutch :lol: I was in third and breaking gently, clutch in, shift to neutral, clutch up, slight rise in the revs whilst still braking, then I forgot to push the clutch in before shifting to second. I thought it felt slightly harder to shift than normal, but not by much, then I realised what I'd done. Proves how much easier gear changes are if you rev match properly ;)

The most important thing to remember with heal and toe, is that the brake is far more important than the throttle. If your foot slips of the throttle, ah well, if you miss the brake, it could be nasty. Make sure it's well covered. You don't need to to be racing for it to be useful, try it when approaching a gentle turn, and you want to drop a gear.
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Ali
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Post by Ali » 09 Jun 2007 11:11 pm

300s are actually one of the easiest cars i've done it in, others are just impossible. Really can't remember what its like with the standard seat and steering wheel but with a lower position in a bucket its pretty damn easy, but yeah, don't attempt it the first time with someone behind you as its likely to end in you flying forwards as you press the brake harder when you stab the throttle!
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