new wheels
-
foggyjames
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 9361
- Joined: 29 Jan 2004 04:20 am
- Location: Nottingham, UK
Clanking and clunking?.....normal?......did you formally own a Ford? 
There's not really any adjustment in it. It'll most likely either be a worn mount (or any number of things on the rear end, to be fair), or a snapped linkage. The latter will need welding back together to be 'tight', but shouldn't stop you changing gear.
cheers
James
There's not really any adjustment in it. It'll most likely either be a worn mount (or any number of things on the rear end, to be fair), or a snapped linkage. The latter will need welding back together to be 'tight', but shouldn't stop you changing gear.
cheers
James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
-
petefarrell360
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 3083
- Joined: 11 Oct 2004 07:12 pm
- Location: Bucks, UK
Because of the way the linkage works it is a little agricultural and slowish due to how far back the gearbox is, but it works and rushing it won't really help. It's possible to do a slick and quick gear change in a 300 with a decent condition linkage, just don't force it.
Pete
Pete
G reg 360 GLT, G reg 340 GL Variomatic, plus many more..........
Thanks, chaps. I don't find the gears are that slow or difficult to engage as long as I try and match the revs between gears and use smooth, gentle actions
.
Listening more carefully, the majority of the noises happen if I come off the clutch a bit too quickly, especially at low revs. Seems to work okay for what I want to do, so I'm not intending to sort it out unless something breaks. I was really just trying to point out that Josh's 340 is really nice and smooth to drive.
Listening more carefully, the majority of the noises happen if I come off the clutch a bit too quickly, especially at low revs. Seems to work okay for what I want to do, so I'm not intending to sort it out unless something breaks. I was really just trying to point out that Josh's 340 is really nice and smooth to drive.

Heh, my mum drove my uncles old Escort (late 80's model) a few weeks ago and wondered what all the rattling in the back was. She opened the boot later expecting to find a box of cans for recycling or something, but it was emptyfoggyjames wrote:Clanking and clunking?.....normal?......did you formally own a Ford?

-
foggyjames
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 9361
- Joined: 29 Jan 2004 04:20 am
- Location: Nottingham, UK
The syncros on 1st are usually pretty fussy (i.e. tricky to downshift at a decent speed), but a sticky 2nd is usually indicative of something up.
The ratios would be fine if the car had some power...but it hasn't....silly grandpa spec cars
cheers
James
The ratios would be fine if the car had some power...but it hasn't....silly grandpa spec cars
cheers
James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
Well it's really left side of toe on the brake, and right side of the middle of the foot on the throttle. It's quite tricky and takes some practice, but it's very rewarding when you can get it right and do a heal and toe and double clutch in one smooth motion.
In fact I was in the process of doing that a week or two ago, got distracted and ended up getting second gear without using the clutch
I was in third and breaking gently, clutch in, shift to neutral, clutch up, slight rise in the revs whilst still braking, then I forgot to push the clutch in before shifting to second. I thought it felt slightly harder to shift than normal, but not by much, then I realised what I'd done. Proves how much easier gear changes are if you rev match properly 
The most important thing to remember with heal and toe, is that the brake is far more important than the throttle. If your foot slips of the throttle, ah well, if you miss the brake, it could be nasty. Make sure it's well covered. You don't need to to be racing for it to be useful, try it when approaching a gentle turn, and you want to drop a gear.
In fact I was in the process of doing that a week or two ago, got distracted and ended up getting second gear without using the clutch
The most important thing to remember with heal and toe, is that the brake is far more important than the throttle. If your foot slips of the throttle, ah well, if you miss the brake, it could be nasty. Make sure it's well covered. You don't need to to be racing for it to be useful, try it when approaching a gentle turn, and you want to drop a gear.

300s are actually one of the easiest cars i've done it in, others are just impossible. Really can't remember what its like with the standard seat and steering wheel but with a lower position in a bucket its pretty damn easy, but yeah, don't attempt it the first time with someone behind you as its likely to end in you flying forwards as you press the brake harder when you stab the throttle!
Down to one car shocker! 1994 200sx S14 119k
1988