OppLock needs some rear wheel bearings.
From my research it seems that the same part were used on 340s and 360s?

^can someone shoot holes in the above statement please?

Cheers all

no holes shot in that statement from what i remember.

there are (i think) differences between the various years of the 300s though.

Ben

there are 3 different types:
1.4, 1.7, 1.6D chassisno <120999
2-litre versions chassisno <120999
all versions chassisno >121000

chassisno 121000 was roughly the start of modelyear 86, with the mk3 facelift, so; depending on the year they are interchangable for 340/360, the 3 different types above are not interchangable as all hubs/setups are different

volvodspec wrote:there are 3 different types:
1.4, 1.7, 1.6D chassisno <120999
2-litre versions chassisno <120999
all versions chassisno >121000

chassisno 121000 was roughly the start of modelyear 86, with the mk3 facelift, so; depending on the year they are interchangable for 340/360, the 3 different types above are not interchangable as all hubs/setups are different

brilliant Anjo.
many thanks.

just saved me shipping useless parts to New Zealand.

Just been doing some refurb on mine was going to post a full series on it but havn't gotten around to full reassembly yet. Highlights;

Inner Shaft can be pushed out with puller, but takes part of the bearing with it.

Part bearing shell (inner) needs to be cut/ground carefully from the hub shaft, it will crack once thin enough. Take your time.

Bearing can be hammered (heavily-sledge hammer job) out of the alloy hub casing with suitably sized socket, probably hotter the better but I didn't try heating for removal (didn't want grease all over my oven).

For reassembly, put hub case in oven (+180C), and bearing in freezer (-19C), for about 30mins. Coat bearing surface in grease and drop straight in, ready with hammer if necessary. Allow to cool.

You'll need new circlips.

I think 360s have mostly been all the same, my 83 one was the same as my 87 one, generally indicated by the large lump on the outside of the hub for centering the wheel (ish). (edit to say , I think my 83 one must have had a axle replacement)

^Nice post.. I'll be needing to do that sometime soon and that helps

I've edited it to say 'shaft' can be pushed out with a puller, use the same job you used to pull off the CV flange but hook it onto the aluminium hub/bearing case (this may be easier if the hub is removed from the axle..more tricky bolts, need allen key or hex drive bit with spanner). It doesn't need a huge amount of force to break the bearing apart. Getting a puller to fit to remove the flange can be tricky, a well fitting one may not be strong enough, heat and tapping will help aswell.

Also worth noting is a technique for removing the CV joint bolts, they can be pretty tough. I use a crow bar hooked into the wheel studs to brace against the ground, then a 10mm hex socket (ie 6 sided) with a 3/8" drive. 1/4" is too weak, and 1/2" is too big to fit in around the rubber boot.

The crow bar in the wheel studs is also useful for removing the large 30mm nut that secures the CV flange. This is also a difference with old 340s, they use a 36mm nut I think, which can be hard to get a socket for unless you go to 3/4" drive.

Hi ride_on

Do you have any pics of how you removed the bearing collar from the hub?
The one that I'm talking about is the collar which holds the bearing in place in the hub!
How did you remove this collar?

Cheers

volvo300 wrote:Hi ride_on

Do you have any pics of how you removed the bearing collar from the hub?
The one that I'm talking about is the collar which holds the bearing in place in the hub!
How did you remove this collar?

Sorry, not sure what you mean. The bearing is held in place by friction and the circlip.

The CV joint flange+outer wheel stud shaft sort of plays a part in holding the bearing inner together, I guess you mean this. It is tricky but I used a 2 legged medium puller (from a set of 3), getting one that fits in the axle box section but is strong enough is the tricky bit. You may need to re-assemble the puller legs to minimise the width and get it close enough. The legs are reversible and have 2 length positions so you have 4 options.

I don't have the parts assembled at the moment, and its a one way trip to push the outer shaft into the bearing, but I have partly assembled them in a representative form for illustration.

Slight thread-jack here, but it seemed like a good place to post my question:

one of the studs snapped when I was fitting the winter tyres:


Are they easy to replace? I'm guessing: remove the drum and hammer the broken stud backwards off the hub.

Cheers

Tom

you wish

hammering the broken one out might work, but there isn't enough space to get the new one in.

best way to get it out is to remove the hub shaft, that involves the setup on the pic above yours, including a torch...

Hi ride_on.

It's this collar I'm talking about.





How did you remove that?

BTW, Thanks for great pics

Cheers.
Peter

Ride_on wrote:

volvo300 wrote:Hi ride_on

Do you have any pics of how you removed the bearing collar from the hub?
The one that I'm talking about is the collar which holds the bearing in place in the hub!
How did you remove this collar?

Sorry, not sure what you mean. The bearing is held in place by friction and the circlip.

The CV joint flange+outer wheel stud shaft sort of plays a part in holding the bearing inner together, I guess you mean this. It is tricky but I used a 2 legged medium puller (from a set of 3), getting one that fits in the axle box section but is strong enough is the tricky bit. You may need to re-assemble the puller legs to minimise the width and get it close enough. The legs are reversible and have 2 length positions so you have 4 options.

I don't have the parts assembled at the moment, and its a one way trip to push the outer shaft into the bearing, but I have partly assembled them in a representative form for illustration.

It doesn't look like a 360 bearing. Are you sure its a separate part, try cleaning it to see if its part of the aluminium bearing housing. It could be the spacer in the old 360 bearing, apparently you should drive that out with the bearing using a drift (after applying some heat). Do you have parts of the bearing still in the housing?

The 360 bearings are much simpler, just a sealed bearing and a circlip, the older cars have all sorts of separate seals. The Haynes manual says 360s pre 86 had the extra seals but, my 83 360 has the simple later arrangement with the labyrinth gland same as my 87 car so I think this is incorrect. It doesn't have any diagrams for 340s.

The 340 instructions just say to drive out the bearing from each side using a drift after heating the housing.

volvodspec wrote:you wish

hammering the broken one out might work, but there isn't enough space to get the new one in.

best way to get it out is to remove the hub shaft, that involves the setup on the pic above yours, including a torch...

In other words you may need to replace the bearing in order to fix the stud. The manual says something about using Volvo tool 5433 and 5434 to remove the 'bearing cup from the drive flange', but it has already stated how to remove the drive flange, I think it might mean the wheel flange, and so you might be able to remove the inner part of the bearing and not damage the bearing when disassembling using this, instead of my method above of grind cutting off the stuck on part and replacing the bearing. Study the diagrams above to confirm what I mean by the drive flange and wheel flange.

Hi ride_on.

The bearing housing comes of a 1981 Volvo 343 DLS (B19A).
I suspect it's similar to the one in my R-sport (343-GLS).

I'll see what I can do the that 'collar'... I think it's the one Haynes is calling 'spacer'.
Haynes just say "remove the spacer, but it has been there for almost 30 years, so it might not be willing to leave

On the other hand, I have a set of brand new bearing housings (1986 an onwards) with bearings and axles, but the axles are pressed into the bearings....
How do I get the axles out without breaking the new bearings installed in the housing?
Can I just tap the axles out???

BTW, thanks for great pics and quick reply
Cheers.
Peter