How much and what dot fluid do i need to buy to replace it all for a brake cooking crazy like me?
Also there's a fuel leak from a braided pipe con'td at the BACK of the carb that looks like it was clamped on something on the Other end..
Any ideas?

Thanks for any help, i'm on an old walkman phone and its really old.
No room for niceties in one post.
Brakes keep going to the floor when hot. Guess it's boiling at 40 degrees or so...

Depends what state your master cyl is in mate, a full system takes way less than a litre, but I've known a few 300's with dodgy (even brand new rebuilt) master cyls that has meant we've put 3 litres in before we could stop the bubbles coming through.

Ok, so 1 litre may do it.
I've put a litre through a motorbike cylinder before now, it's never as simple as expected...
What's the best fluid for harsh braking, say rally grade stuff? Will the seals be ok, any chemicals i should avoid?

Dot 4 is the recommended stuff for our cars.

Compatibility wise, Dot 5.1 is made of the same stuff as Dot 3 and Dot 4, Dot 5 however is a completely different stuff.

5.1 also has the highest boiling point, so is the stuff of rally champs. On the other hand, I only ever run Dot 4 and just change it lots I'll run 5.1 on my next change though, I'm certainly having to change more frequently with the F7R.

Presuming your brakes are not creating too much heat by binding or the rears not working, a complete brake fluid change should help heavy use problems. Good thick disks also help.

Fuel leaks from the old cloth cover hoses are common after around 10 years, replace all of them if they havn't been done already. In particular check the short jointing sections near the gearbox. Disconnect under the rear seat at the tank and pull them completely out under the car to work at them.

keeping again..

bleed nipples..
what mm spanner for the front? - looks like 6mm?
and-d-d-d How to undo the nipple safely .. Blowtorch then spanner, tapping, tighten a bit first.. the metal looks galvanised or brass or something - how to deal with it without snapping it.

Ive done the rear brakes.. verr easy. but I do have a precision DOBR 10mm spanner, rest of sizes are china crap.
no more brake failure for last 500 miles, think there may have been crud stuck in the proportioning valve, so gentle braking for now while I still have old fluid in the front

MONEY+LIFE+ENVIRONMENT SAVING TIP! - I squeezed the air from the 1/4 used brake fluid bottle and closed it without any air inside - the bottle is left with slight vacuum and zero air.

7mm

if you have a 6-sided socket in 7mm, use that to get them loose rather than heat or anything, i've never broken one anyway. turning anti-clockwise straight away should be enough to get them out in one piece.

Get some WD-40 on that, I've heard bad things about them snapping

i never use that either
good tools are more helpfull than chemical additives imo

Yeah, recently I've discovered how much better deep sockets really are.

If they haven't been undone in a while there's every chance that if you just turn them with a socket you'll snap them off. Trust me I've been there. I think I've broken at least three before I worked out it was not the best plan! Search for "pettaw brakes" on youtube and you'll bring up a video of how to do it properly. You'll need heat from a blowtorch and then some WD-40 or other lubricant.

Hope that helps.

saw the vid and i think it's a whole lot of work for a bloody bleeding nipple.. the only reason the nipple can get stuck-ish is if the brake fluid hasn't been changed since the car left the factory. hygroscopic fluids need changing every 3 years (max) and every 2 years is reccomended. at the last technical day we had such a car, though the bleed nipple struggled to get out with the conventional set of tools, even rounded one off. my 7mm socket simply popped the other one loose and a pair of gripper pliers loosened the other one.

volvodspec wrote: the only reason the nipple can get stuck-ish is if the brake fluid hasn't been changed since the car left the factory.

Problem is bud, 90% of the cars over here are like that. All brake fluid colour is a dark treacle, consistency of water...

Fake has *very* regular fluid changes, I use a 7mm ring spanner as that way I can't get too much torque onto it to snap. They do seize if you get them hot I've found, but never enough that you can't undo them.