OK, when everything's straight forward I appear outwardly to be capable of fixing a car, Ive lowered my 340 and fitted some bushes and shocks.

But as soon as I hit a snag I'm completely stuck.

I cannot get my brake caliper bolts undone. I have tried heat ( 2 minuets of blowtorch), WD40, a hammer, an impact driver capable of 155nm of torque and the obvious super long extension bar but they will not move even 1 degree!

I am pretty sure they have never been undone since the car left the factory (1988?), so I must be on the original brake discs, which are in OK condition at the moment, but could do with being changed in the near future, so Im looking for some other ideas before Im told by a professional that It's pointless and I should scrap it rather than replacing the discs.

Did you heat them up untill hey glowed red? If not it wont have done much.Before you go nay further with removing them make sure you order new ones.

To get them red hot you willprobably need a oxy torch

Thats a professionals tool though.

Are the caliper bolts still avaliable from Volvo?, should I expect to sheer the head off the bolt after heating?

are you sure you're undowing the bolts rather than tightening them even more?

how much longer did you extend the socket?

i always use a 6side hex with a ratchet + 1meter extension pipe; allways get them loose on various cars and never found heat nescassary

Well you might be able to help me with mine.

Ive done loads of work on brakes on other cars and not found this much trouble taking calipers off. Im using britool among other brands of 6 sided sockets. I don't think I could use a 1 meter extension because the angle would mean that the end of the bar would be in contact with the floor and I would have no leverage. I would have thought an impact driver with 155nm of torque would have done it though.

turn the wheel to full lock, then you can use a proper extension

Hi mate.
When i got mine done,a blow tourch was the only way to go.
Cheers Mark.

I used to change brake calipers on the British Army Defenders. 6-side sockets, plus decent wrench, plus black-country screwdriver (lump hammer) usually sorted it. Heat helps though.

I do remember having to drill the bolts out once or twice. Not good going. Mind you , once I'd got to that point, it was easier to change the stub axle, or even the whole axle.
Can't be of much more help sorry.

Thanks, for the responses, Its good just to know what sort of direction this is going to take, at least its not stopping me from driving the car just now.
I'll try the wheel at full lock, Ive got poly bushes on the tie bars now so that might help the strut to stay in position while a strong twisting force is applied.

mrsoundcraft wrote:I don't think I could use a 1 meter extension because the angle would mean that the end of the bar would be in contact with the floor and I would have no leverage.

It's a six-sided socket though! If 1m isn't enough stick a scaffy pole over it for more leverage. Caliper bolts are easy, it's not nearly as tough as doing some big hub nuts on drive wheels.

mounting with some copper grease to the bolts does help you the next time you want it loose though...

As the other guys have said, turn the wheel out so you can get a 3ft breaker bar on it, and then get it very very hot. I would concentrate the heat on the bracket itself where the caliper bolts into, because that's where it seizes, rather than the head. May take 4-5 minutes to heat the bracket up hot enough to loosen the rust, but persist and you'll get it. Yeah if you have access to a MAPP gas torch, or an oxy-propane or oxy-acetylene you'll get it much hotter quicker, but the standard butane/propane will work given time. Obviously keep the heat away from the rubber brake lines and the speedo cable if its on that side. Just in case the worst happens keep a damp cloth handy to smother it.