Dreaded rust

[Ride_on]

i've never believed in chemicals to "treat" rust. those aren't a solution only a method of extending the life of the corroded steel

looking at the chassis beam, i think your floorpan and the chassis beams are in a worse shape than you might think looking at these pics, i'd remove the floormat and see if any corrosion is coming upwards aswell. and a hammer on the entire bottom to find other rusty bits..

You where right, the cross beam infront of the spare wheel well has gone, but almost not detectable from underneath, the only weak part is where there is not enough space to get your screwdriver into it. There was also rust in the chassis beam, but have fixed that. I was seeing the end of the tunnel with the sills and started to look at the rear arch and boot. Top of the left wheel rear arch inside is holed aswell.

Some updated pics

Boot nightmare, have previously replaced all rear facing panels

Saloon boot

Sill progress, had to rebuild the floor pan corners, bottom lip, both jacking points. Braced the doorway, jacked up the gear box/engine and a little jacking force under the passenger area.

floor pan repaired

holes in rear foot well and under seat

Repair section recovered from older car, cover in weld through zinc primer

repair section ready for welding

Working on rear jacking point at the moment, also waiting for some galvanising paint to add before reducing access.

[Edcase 300]

thats some inspirational stuff dude! keep up the gd work

[Ride_on]

Having done the front valence and feeling I was making good progress, I decided next to tackle the window corners, which looked ok onthe outside but had seen alot of rust plate fallen inside the kick panels with some holes visible so I didn't think it would be great. However the result was worse than I could imagine. Looks like this part most of it didn't get any rust protection atall. I can't see how to rebuild it, and the fact I broke the windscreen on the way out!

Removal of shuttle plate

The horror!

Found some solid metal

[macplaxton]

Probably not much help:

[Ride_on]

That is definately some help, thanks. There are so many part that come together there, I shall just have to guess some of it.

[L14MNP]

Jesus mate. That's quite a state! I know it's the least of your worries for now, but what do you plan to do for reconstructing the outer panel? You can only buy end section repair panels, right?

I assume you're removing the dash too, to access it from below?

[SteveP]

Bugger I admire your perseverance - keep at it! Pretty shocking to see that last pic though

[volvodspec]

i've made a few pics for you, to accomodate the partscatalogue pictures






hope that helps in restoring your front valance, it's obvious that with 4 layers of steel corossion is something that will allways happen sooner or later. i guess that you can make the lowest piece that's part of the bulkhead/firewall and goes to the windscreen outline and the top part of the valance for the outer bodywork and then strengthen with a piece of tubular rather than the 2 plates in the middle, would make it a whole lot easyer (unless you can find all parts for the valance)

[Ride_on]

Jesus, 4 layers, I thought there was only 3. Is that maybe just around the wiper holes and corners? Also is that pre wiper RHD conversion? I suspect that the RHD wiper conversion has left some rustproofing out. Having said that my 1980 345 rusted badly here aswell, but it had poor rust protecion all over.

The corner section (outerskin) is mostly ok, but it has an inside reinforcement that is 99% gone.
At the front part, layer 1 (bulhead)is mostly ok except at the corner, so I think I can shape well enough to repair that. The windscreen curve could be tricky, but I have the outer skin as a pattern (..ish, its rusted on that part).
Layer 2 ends before the corner and looks fairly simple to fabricate (no need for the wiper hole), I have a lapjoint stepper that should help.
Outerskin is ok and I expect to weld back in, but with new reinforcement at the corner, and a little thickening with the welder (if it doesn't hole).

Dashboard is loosened to get at the windscreen retaining clips, but will try to not remove it completely. Access is fairly good from the top, and I have dremel type thing and air die grinder.

[macplaxton]

Great pics there Anjo

(For reference that area below the window is the "scuttle", at least in British English. Americans like to use a different name for nearly everything on a car - I think they call it the cowl. Likewise the panel between the engine and passenger compartments is (GB) bulkhead, (US) firewall.)

Yup the four pieces are (from outside to inside I think, I'll use the VADIS descriptions)


(2) "Windscreen frame" (in LHD and RHD versions for later cars)
(4) "Member"
(3) "Cowl Member"
(not shown on that slide) "Firewall"
(5) "Reinforcement" (handed)



(1) "Door frame"
(2) "Tie plate"

[Fuse]

Nice work!

Outer layers of the windshield surround corner parts are available as replacement sheet metal parts from Klokkerholm and Hadrian for example.

http://www.klokkerholm.com/xProductCata ... oup=876560
http://hadrian.dominohosting.biz/hadria ... nt&Ret=ALL
http://hadrian.dominohosting.biz/hadria ... nt&Ret=ALL

I have to disagree with the stuff said about the chemical rust removing. Phosphoric acid can be used with good results as "chemical sandblasting" and it's widly used in industrial applications as in preparing metal parts for painting etc...

Of course the results will be same as with the sand blasting, corroded metal will vanish after treatment. Corroded metal can't be turned back to good but the phosphoric acid can be used to "chemically sand blast" metal parts.

Max 30% acid solution is usually enough. The results are like the surface would've been sand blasted. Application time varies depending how corroded the object is. If the object cannot be dipped on to the acid solution, the acid has to be applied on to the surface regulary during the application time so the surface doesn't dry up. Surface will look like sandblasted after the treatment. Application time shouldn't be too much either as in time the acids will eat away the good metal also.

Google acid+rust and there's a lot of info about the treatment. Of course when dealing with acids like phosphoric acid you always have to be carefull and wear suitable protective gloves, eye protection etc...

Different acids can be also used. Some people use citrid acid for example. http://preventrust.info/acid-rust-removal/

[Ride_on]

Excellent diagrams, I know what I have to do. mor or less

Will post more photos of course... Did have a load others but HDD died and that was one of the directories I didn't get before it went completely..gutted, considering paying the £200 to get it repaired. Now have an 'enterprise' drive, we use them for CCTV applications, bit more robust.

Back end, sills, front valence, 1 inner guard, all rebuilt + coated. Rear axle, springs + brake parts painted, new bearings, bushes tank repaired + painted. Just have to put it back together to move it so I can take the front right wing off now.

[MCHUDD]

Hi Ride-on.
If you want, you can cut a section out of my GLT and weld it in. That part is still rust free, i think.
Windscreen is also in good nick.
Give me a ring if your stuck.
Cheers Mark.

[Ride_on]

Cheers, I could do with a windscreen, think I'm ok for metal the outer cosmetic skin is ok.

No hurry though, the only question is- before or after winter?

[Speedy88]

It's indoors. It can wait. If I were you I'd get all the "lower down" jobs done before it gets REALLY cold. Don't want to be on the floor when the cold starts coming upwards.