curing body roll.

Post by **classicswede** » 03 Nov 2006 10:42 pm

25mm is pleanty big enough for a heavy car like a 240 tbh.

Post by **smithy** » 22 Nov 2006 11:47 am

Here is a photo of my 360 with a bmw rear arb. It looks like it hangs a bit low but when the car sits on the ground it lifts up .

Post by **SteveP** » 22 Nov 2006 11:52 am

Thanks for the pic! Looks interesting, but I can't see how that'd work

I thought it'd have to attach the the rear suspension like on the 363CS:

Post by **dalahare** » 22 Nov 2006 01:01 pm

Where are the ends of the swaybar attached smithy?

Post by **classicswede** » 22 Nov 2006 06:49 pm

I should imagine there must be a link rod to the floor pan?

The picture does not show enough of what we need to see.

Post by **foggyjames** » 22 Nov 2006 08:07 pm

Looks to me like the bar terminates somewhere near the front spring mounting point, but its a bit blurry up there. Interesting

cheers

James

Post by **Fuse** » 22 Nov 2006 09:21 pm

That 363CS swaybar isn't the best one either. I've been told that if the body side attatchment points are too far from the "center" of the "damping movement" (don't know how to explain it in english..

) the sway bar doesn't work anywhere near like it should. In this case the body side brackets should be as near the axle as possible, not at the end of the spring as they are now, because the axle is the "center" point which I tried to explain before.

Post by **IvanAE86** » 22 Nov 2006 10:19 pm

The swaybar on the 363 looks like a regular one, as found on many many production vehicles.. You dont want to make those arms too short, they determine the springrate of the swaybar. The shorter they are, the stiffer it gets (and you dont need uber-stiffness), thats also why performance swaybars often have adjustable endlinks, so you can adjust it a little bit.

Anyways, can we get some better pics of that bimmer swaybar? Preferebly some of the endlinks..

Post by **smithy** » 23 Nov 2006 12:29 pm

I have made up brackets which fit around the exhaust and over the diff support on one side and on the other the bracket turns a different direction and fits around the fuel filler neck and bolts to the same diff support bracket. Anyone in melbourne can contact me and have a look at the car at Berry motor group in mitcham.

Post by **classicswede** » 23 Nov 2006 08:25 pm

So we will all be in th escrapies taking the arb's of bmw 323!

Post by **jimf671** » 26 Nov 2006 04:30 pm

Whats all this anti-roll bar stuff about. Its much easier than that. On a 340 you can treble the front spring rate and the higher the rate the better everything gets. Reduced roll, sharper handling more predictable, better traction due to improved relative compliance at the rear, and superb controllabliity in a drift. Volvo 300 front springs are easy to make and good spring makers with decent equipment will make you a set for around 100 to 120 gbp. Some will do all the calcs for you.

Not gone wild with the 360 spring rate yet but I expect its exactly the same.

When I bought the first set of 340 springs the guy got the spring length all wrong. I got the grinder out and sliced a coil off. Calculated the rate and thought 'damn, this is far too stiff'. So wrong. It was excellent!

Post by **classicswede** » 26 Nov 2006 07:37 pm

I bet you wish you had been here before as I get the springs made for £50 a pair to any spec I want for the 300's.
The problem with the ultra stiff front end is you can get under steer.

Ideal set up is different for different surface and driver

Post by **Fuse** » 26 Nov 2006 08:27 pm

Yeah and if you are going on gravel, rally cross etc.. you definately don't want a front end which is super stiff without any anti-roll bars.

It's a matter of preferences and what your use is.

Post by **jimf671** » 26 Nov 2006 09:08 pm

First action with a rally car was always to get rid of anything complicated. Decent springs and dampers carefully chosen. Only use anti-roll bars as a last resort.

Strut front and rigid rear is a classic layout. It reponds well to the stiff front treatment but especially on the 300 because of the low unsprung weight at the rear which doesnt need lots of force to control it on the rough. Vastly improved front camber control should counter much of the understeer effects that you would expect from the additional weight transfer.

Dont mistake poor turn-in reponse for understeer. Not quite the same problem. In steady-state, the cars I have had with stiff fronts have been beautifully balanced. (Areas of use: A835, A82, A87. These are some of the finest driving roads in the UK. If you get these right, it should be fine on a city roundabout.)

Post by **sven360** » 26 Nov 2006 09:50 pm

classicswede wrote:I bet you wish you had been here before as I get the springs made for £50 a pair to any spec I want for the 300

Have ya sorted mine out