clutch query

[bogbasic]

Folks, my 360 makes a loud thud/jolt from the drivetrain when I engage the clutch in first and, more significantly, in reverse. I have adjusted the clutch but that simply lowers the biting point and I get exactly the same clonk. The garage reckoned it was the gearbox mountings and they replaced one with a second hand item that was better than the old one but that made no difference at all to the jolt. So does it sound like the clutch has done - the car has done about 120k so could be?
It only got really bad after I took it to the garage.... what have they done to it?? Is it possible to tell if the clutch is knackered by pulling off the rubber inspection plate underneath the flywheel??

Also, if I change the clutch, then it looks like semi-major work.... the Haynes says to drop the rear springs but the yellow book says just to drop the gearbox...

Could this be another autumn project coming on?

Any clues, much apprec. bogbasic.

[Ride_on]

All clutches today!

If the diff and engine mounts are generally ok (check under the car and give it a good waggle by hand grabbing the diff/gearbox), the only thing I can think of is the clutch plate damper springs. You will not see the problem without removing it I think. Also try rotating the wheels to make the drive shaft move with the engine off and in gear, you'll have to have someone hold the other wheel. You might be able to tell where the clunk is comming from then. A similar test would be to put the car on stands, handbrake on and have someone bring the clutch up to biting/conking point and again listen/look for the clonk location.

The least dissassembly method is to disconnect the clutch housing from the engine and allow the clutch+drive to drop and hinge down. You have to move the drive back from the engine a little so you may have to disconnect the diff mounts (or cross member is easier) and some other bits. Jack + hold the diff + tube so you don't have to remove the CV joints. The Engine will need support aswell as the whole engine+drive system is only held by 4 mounts. The diff can go out over the axle or under it depending on what you do and how much space you need, but I thought there should be enough space to go back. If you go over the axle you might need to drop the springs, go under it you need the car high enough and remove the whole job lot (including CV joints).

[bogbasic]

Thanks for all that. I forgot to say that the lever arm that goes into the clutch bell-housing (i.e. the one to which the clutch cable is attached) has a lot of free-play in it and waggling it makes exactly the noise that I get when the car jolts going into first or reverse.

[bogbasic]

To answer this one, for completeness,.... it was the spline at the end of the near-side rear half-shaft. Changed the clutch but the problem didn't go away (Bah! Humbug!) and then the car conked out on a speed bump due to half-shaft failure. Oh well, at least I have a new clutch after 4 months toil.

[volvosneverdie]

Oh well, at least I have a new clutch after 4 months toil.

Thats the spirit!

Merry Xmas.

[macplaxton]

Many thanks for coming back to finalise this one. It's amazing the number of people that don't and leave the thread in a Dallas style cliffhanger.

[smchris]

I've had the same with mine since i bought it, (only 50,000 miles) and its not bothered me, I thought it was just the way the car is, and touch wood I've had no problems, bare in mind its taken some abuse (put almost 6000 miles on it since i bought it) should I be concerned?