B14, B172, B19/200, D16 engine, ignition, cooling, fuel & exhaust system, gearbox, variomatic, final drive... | Tuning: engine swaps, welded diff, clutch upgrades...
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Speedy88
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- Location: Bristol
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by Speedy88 » 07 Oct 2012 09:46 pm
I'm going to have to get around to this. I might even bite the bullet and pay a man to do it as it truly is a pain the arse to do.
However, before I give up I was thinking about which of these is easier:
1. Gearbox, tube and bell-housing removed.
2. Engine out.
Any experience/advice would be appreciated. Part of me just thinks if I'm taking the engine out, may as well uprate it

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L14MNP
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- Location: Sunderland/Durham
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by L14MNP » 07 Oct 2012 10:02 pm
I reckon engine out. As you say, why put that boat anchor back in when snail power is required?!
The pikey in me (a large percentage I am sad to admit) has always wondered if it would be possible to remove the rad etc, and shift the engine forwards on a hoist and do it with it still in the bay. IIRC, that would still save a big fuck on with persuading the old cast iron girl back into bed.
Then again, it's piss simple to drop the 'box, and leave the bell housing on the torque tube for ease...

STREETO WITHDRAWL
INTO BURNOUTSsince1982
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Speedy88
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- Location: Bristol
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by Speedy88 » 07 Oct 2012 10:58 pm
Oh of course, I'd just be able to slide the housing and tube backwards. Getting the shaft out of the spigot can be a real arseache though, that's the bit I'm worried about.
Basically going to have to buy a car to get me around as I can't see it taking just a couple of days.
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L14MNP
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- Location: Sunderland/Durham
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by L14MNP » 08 Oct 2012 10:32 am
Surely it's doable in a day if you drop the box and torque tube?
Use the ramp at A52?
Would be done in a decent time if you can get another pair of hands, and good access.
Doable?
Also, as you well know, no crappy allen headed driveshaft bolts to round off.

STREETO WITHDRAWL
INTO BURNOUTSsince1982
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Ride_on
- Posts: 2265
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- Location: Belfast, N. Ireland
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by Ride_on » 08 Oct 2012 09:54 pm
Haynes has a procedure for leaving the drive and halfshafts in place, shifting it back to release clutch housing from the engine then dropping the clutch housing still connected to the torque tube, supporting the gearbox as everything angles down.
The key seems to be to drop the rear axle by removing the bolts at the rear of the springs.
The engine would need to held or jiggled to stop it naturally tipping and jamming up the spigot as you pull the drive back.
There is quite alot of detail to follow, athough you could guess the rest on site.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
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macplaxton
- Posts: 3283
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by macplaxton » 09 Oct 2012 12:09 am
Ride_on wrote:Haynes copied a procedure from the Volvo Green book for leaving the drive and halfshafts in place, shifting it back to release clutch housing from the engine then dropping the clutch housing still connected to the torque tube, supporting the gearbox as everything angles down.
The key seems to be to drop the rear axle by removing the bolts at the rear of the springs.
The engine would need to held or jiggled to stop it naturally tipping and jamming up the spigot as you pull the drive back.
There is quite alot of detail to follow, athough you could guess the rest on site.
FTFY
Have a butchers in the Green book on this very site.
72 DAF 44 Estate 78 Volvo 343DL Black Beauty


82 Volvo 343DL CVT


88 Volvo 340DL Diesel
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Ride_on
- Posts: 2265
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- Location: Belfast, N. Ireland
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by Ride_on » 10 Oct 2012 12:18 am
Thanks for the correction lol!
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7