Hey guys,
Having an issue when I'm out competing. During competitive sections, I often have to come to a complete stop and start again. If I've been going some on the section beforehand, the car will often struggle to idle properly and will stall when I try and rev it again. Anybody come across this before and have an inkling as to what it is? I have rebuilt the carb and set the float previously, which seemed to cure it for a while. Unfortunately, it seems to have remerged. I personally think it is either the idle speed (set per Haynes manual) that is not high enough when the engine is hot, or there isn't enough fuel getting to the carburettor with it being a crank driven fuel pump. Stupid ideas?
Other than that, it is fine under normal driving conditions and on the motorway.
Thanks
Matt
B14 stalling
B14 stalling
“the winner ain't the one with the fastest car, it's the one who refuses to lose” - Dale Earnhardt
Re: B14 stalling
Idle air mixture/CO out of whack?
Charging curcuit/alternator giving whacked out voltages?
Leaky gasket(s)?
Modded intake/airfilter badly effecting the renix (I had this problem on my b14 and refit the original stuff)
Loose wires.
Damp/worn distributor?
Wrong temperature/gap sparkplugs?
Coked-up engine causing preignition when extra-hot? (particularly under initial acceleration)
It does sound TOO-HOT.. - Check the thermostat is opening at right pressure and the waterpump is pumping healthily.
I wouldn't rule out a sticky valve.
Charging curcuit/alternator giving whacked out voltages?
Leaky gasket(s)?
Modded intake/airfilter badly effecting the renix (I had this problem on my b14 and refit the original stuff)
Loose wires.
Damp/worn distributor?
Wrong temperature/gap sparkplugs?
Coked-up engine causing preignition when extra-hot? (particularly under initial acceleration)
It does sound TOO-HOT.. - Check the thermostat is opening at right pressure and the waterpump is pumping healthily.
I wouldn't rule out a sticky valve.
Re: B14 stalling
Block/open crankcase breather system?
Block the pipe going in at the bottom of the carb to test it, too much air here is basically a leak, it needs to be restricted by the T piece or a a bit of plastic in the actual tube depending on the year.
Otherwise check all the pipes are good. Then redo the mixture.
Block the pipe going in at the bottom of the carb to test it, too much air here is basically a leak, it needs to be restricted by the T piece or a a bit of plastic in the actual tube depending on the year.
Otherwise check all the pipes are good. Then redo the mixture.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
Re: B14 stalling
Evening' all,
I have to confess that I claim some familiarity with the 32DIR and I am thinking back to the mid 80s when a general "closing of the holes" into the engine bay resulted in "kangaroo" antics on drive away from a warm start (stopped for 10-20 mins). The issue would correct itself after a mile or so.
The shutting up the engine bay action was all about raising the under bonnet temperature - higher temp. around the engine meant reduced thermal loss from the block (thermal rejection) equalled less energy wasted in heat - or so the theory went. Unfortunately higher temps resulted in fuel vapour bubble formation within the float chamber as soon as the engine stopped (or idled - if the engine is not using fuel at any rate the float chamber is not being cooled by fresh fuel) As the fuel return is from the pump the float chamber fuel must be used to replace with cool. As the car is then driven, fuel useage increases and hot goes cool and vapour bubbles disappear.
The reason that bubbles cause a problem is obvious - although it's all fuel being drawn though the main jets it consists of liquid, gaseous, liquid, gaseous etc. the mass of metered fuel changes - therefore so does the mixture - hence idle quality suffers and tendency to stall increases (think correct, weak, correct, weak in mixture terms). Once back at speed everything cools down and the mixture returns to normal - the problem goes away. (in my "research days" we built a carb with a quartz glass window in the float chamber top so we could confirm our bubble theory).
In the "real world" it has never been a big problem but if you're knocking on a bit in competition Matt your under bonnet will be hot, certainly hot enough to onset vapour bubbles.
This may be what's going on - especially if all settings are ok and the engine otherwise performs ok. The answer is to keep the underbonnet or at least the carb cooler. (ducts, pipes, very small person with fan, WHY). One mod that helped (but not production possible) was an air extraction vent in the bonnet which created an air flow upwards through the bay past the carb.
The well known lower flash point of modern fuels only enhances the problem.
Can chat about it at the BKV if it will help Matt.
Mac.
I have to confess that I claim some familiarity with the 32DIR and I am thinking back to the mid 80s when a general "closing of the holes" into the engine bay resulted in "kangaroo" antics on drive away from a warm start (stopped for 10-20 mins). The issue would correct itself after a mile or so.
The shutting up the engine bay action was all about raising the under bonnet temperature - higher temp. around the engine meant reduced thermal loss from the block (thermal rejection) equalled less energy wasted in heat - or so the theory went. Unfortunately higher temps resulted in fuel vapour bubble formation within the float chamber as soon as the engine stopped (or idled - if the engine is not using fuel at any rate the float chamber is not being cooled by fresh fuel) As the fuel return is from the pump the float chamber fuel must be used to replace with cool. As the car is then driven, fuel useage increases and hot goes cool and vapour bubbles disappear.
The reason that bubbles cause a problem is obvious - although it's all fuel being drawn though the main jets it consists of liquid, gaseous, liquid, gaseous etc. the mass of metered fuel changes - therefore so does the mixture - hence idle quality suffers and tendency to stall increases (think correct, weak, correct, weak in mixture terms). Once back at speed everything cools down and the mixture returns to normal - the problem goes away. (in my "research days" we built a carb with a quartz glass window in the float chamber top so we could confirm our bubble theory).
In the "real world" it has never been a big problem but if you're knocking on a bit in competition Matt your under bonnet will be hot, certainly hot enough to onset vapour bubbles.
This may be what's going on - especially if all settings are ok and the engine otherwise performs ok. The answer is to keep the underbonnet or at least the carb cooler. (ducts, pipes, very small person with fan, WHY). One mod that helped (but not production possible) was an air extraction vent in the bonnet which created an air flow upwards through the bay past the carb.
The well known lower flash point of modern fuels only enhances the problem.
Can chat about it at the BKV if it will help Matt.
Mac.
88 5door Redline 1.7 52k - 19 XC60 Momentum Pro D4 AWD 17k
1950 pair of legs that don't work very well.
1950 pair of legs that don't work very well.
Re: B14 stalling
Hello to everybody,
I would like to ask for the advice where to start looking for a problem with the stalling engine of my 1986 340. It starts all the time without any big problems, but turns off at the same time as I am not pressing the gas pedal, or keep it pressed but in a constant position. If i continue pushing the pedal, then i can hold it running.
After reading through the forum here, the only thing i did up to now, was to tighten the bolts of my weber carb (three of them were really loose). Should i continue looking for the solution in the carb? Or it might be related to the spark plugs and wires?
THanks for the help in advance!
I would like to ask for the advice where to start looking for a problem with the stalling engine of my 1986 340. It starts all the time without any big problems, but turns off at the same time as I am not pressing the gas pedal, or keep it pressed but in a constant position. If i continue pushing the pedal, then i can hold it running.
After reading through the forum here, the only thing i did up to now, was to tighten the bolts of my weber carb (three of them were really loose). Should i continue looking for the solution in the carb? Or it might be related to the spark plugs and wires?
THanks for the help in advance!
Re: B14 stalling
From your description I would suspect that either the idle circuit shut off solenoid is stuck "closed" (thus shutting off the idle circuit causing the engine to stop on closed throttle),
- or you have lost 12v feed to the solenoid preventing it energising.
If the car starts and runs ok but simply will not idle then the problem is almost certainly associated with the idle circuit.
Mac.
- or you have lost 12v feed to the solenoid preventing it energising.
If the car starts and runs ok but simply will not idle then the problem is almost certainly associated with the idle circuit.
Mac.
88 5door Redline 1.7 52k - 19 XC60 Momentum Pro D4 AWD 17k
1950 pair of legs that don't work very well.
1950 pair of legs that don't work very well.
Re: B14 stalling
thanks, I will check it!
Re: B14 stalling
Hi,
so after removing out the idle speed solenoid from the carb i checked it by turning on the ignition and touching it to the body of the carb to get 'ground', and the needle doesn't move back inside from its position. The 12V feed to it is ok.
Is it enough to say by checking only like that the solenoid is bad? I have read, that some guys here in the forum just cut the needle of, to fix the problem... I guess i should try doing it too until i find a replacement for it.
so after removing out the idle speed solenoid from the carb i checked it by turning on the ignition and touching it to the body of the carb to get 'ground', and the needle doesn't move back inside from its position. The 12V feed to it is ok.
Is it enough to say by checking only like that the solenoid is bad? I have read, that some guys here in the forum just cut the needle of, to fix the problem... I guess i should try doing it too until i find a replacement for it.