B14, B172, B19/200, D16 engine, ignition, cooling, fuel & exhaust system, gearbox, variomatic, final drive... | Tuning: engine swaps, welded diff, clutch upgrades...
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volvoman
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by volvoman » 09 Sep 2014 11:08 pm
Hi there,
First and foremost I'm new here !!!
I wonder if anybody could help me adjust my engine intake and exhaust valves in details
it's volvo 340 1984 B14 petrol engine
yours sincerely

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Ride_on
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by Ride_on » 10 Sep 2014 02:01 am
Well really you should rtfm, but here goes.
Remove the valve cover
Turn the engine until the first cam lobe is pointing vertically
Loosen the locknut on the rocker
Check the gap with a feeler gauge and adjust until it just catches the blade that meets the desired spec.
Tighten the locknut
Repeat for each valve.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
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volvoman
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by volvoman » 10 Sep 2014 02:16 am
well, I don't have the fm that's why I'm asking in the first place
"Repeat for each valve" as if intake and exhaust valve are similarly adjusted
Thanks for rep
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macplaxton
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by macplaxton » 11 Sep 2014 12:12 am
Hello and welcome.
volvoman wrote:well, I don't have the fm that's why I'm asking in the first place
Go here:
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=7260
download first link
Voila! Now you have the "fm" (factory manual -

)
Anyway, you'll need three hands. One to hold the feeler gauge, one for the tappet adjuster and one for the locknut.
Two points:
1) do it with engine cold
2) always turn the engine by the crankshaft in it's normal direction of running.
72 DAF 44 Estate 78 Volvo 343DL Black Beauty


82 Volvo 343DL CVT


88 Volvo 340DL Diesel
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bogbasic
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by bogbasic » 11 Sep 2014 05:27 pm
Yeah, the fine manual is always your friend. If the car is a high miler, you might need to set use a thinner feeler gauge than the recommended one to compensate for wear in the rocker arm.... or at least that is what I used to do to stop it clacking ^_^
1988 340 1.4 GL, 218k, 5 door (Grey Bess). Gone to CBA.
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!
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volvoman
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by volvoman » 11 Sep 2014 10:18 pm
Thanks
"macplaxton" really helpful
and specially for the F :lol:M my friend
Appreciate your rep.
also Thanks to
"bogbasic"
bogbasic wrote: to stop it clacking ^_^
the main reason for adjustments

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Rubenv340
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by Rubenv340 » 12 Sep 2014 11:28 am
bogbasic wrote:Yeah, the fine manual is always your friend. If the car is a high miler, you might need to set use a thinner feeler gauge than the recommended one to compensate for wear in the rocker arm.... or at least that is what I used to do to stop it clacking ^_^
What you mean? Instead of the regular adjustment, 15/20 i guess, use less? like 10/15?
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classicswede
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by classicswede » 12 Sep 2014 11:52 am
On LPG you want to make the gap slightly bigger rather than smaller
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Rubenv340
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by Rubenv340 » 13 Sep 2014 04:27 pm
classicswede wrote:On LPG you want to make the gap slightly bigger rather than smaller
Can you give me an example of values? So in the next valve adjustment i'll do the change.
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classicswede
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by classicswede » 13 Sep 2014 09:49 pm
adjust the exhaust valves at 0.25 mm instead 0,20 mm (cold)
keep the inlet valves to the normal gap
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Rubenv340
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by Rubenv340 » 15 Sep 2014 01:52 am
Ok. Cheers.
