B14, B172, B19/200, D16 engine, ignition, cooling, fuel & exhaust system, gearbox, variomatic, final drive... | Tuning: engine swaps, welded diff, clutch upgrades...
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paulwelle72
- Posts: 14
- Joined: 25 Jul 2005 11:06 pm
- Location: Croydon, Surrey
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by paulwelle72 » 30 Jul 2005 12:14 am
Help Required.
Recently purchased a very clean and tidy vario see thread
http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... -f1463.htm
now when I went out to move it today, I am having to REALLY rev it to get it to move, and there is a smell of burning clutch.
How much work is involved in sorting this do you think, as I have worked on various engines and gearboxes, but never one of these.
Any help and advise gratefully accepted.
Paul

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petefarrell360
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 3083
- Joined: 11 Oct 2004 07:12 pm
- Location: Bucks, UK
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by petefarrell360 » 30 Jul 2005 12:52 am
I may be in a similar situation, once I get time to get my Variomatic running, I can see if what was said is true. But I believe it has lost drive. I don't know the sytem well enough, but could it be that one of the belts has snapped on your car, meaning the other may give movement at high revs? Just an idea. I've yet to find out what it wrong or what is the cause on mine due to a lack of time! I believe they have a tendency for the clutch to stick on the varios if left for a while. Hope you get it sorted, Will (wjp01908) is the man for Variomatics, I'm sure he'll be able to help you.
Pete
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paulwelle72
- Posts: 14
- Joined: 25 Jul 2005 11:06 pm
- Location: Croydon, Surrey
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Contact:
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by paulwelle72 » 30 Jul 2005 05:14 pm
Thanks for that pete, I hope he pops up on this message, and is able to give some advice.
Paul
Proud owner of 1984 340 GL 43000 genuine miles.......
345 Y reg Scrapped
340 D reg Totalled by range rover.
240 GL 2.1 inj T reg Sold
145 L reg Sold.
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morgan105
- Posts: 282
- Joined: 30 Dec 2004 07:34 pm
- Location: Wirral, UK
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by morgan105 » 31 Jul 2005 12:37 am
The removal and replacement of the clutch is basically the same as any rear wheel drive car. The main difference is when you install the new clutch you don't have to align the clutch plate because it's not in contact with the pressure plate, but the main priority is that you fit the correct width of shims required to keep the gap between the two plates and measure it with feeler gauges. New shims are available at different thicknesses for this job if required. Fairly easy enough and straight forward as the normal manual type clutch but just a bit fiddly while shimming up to correct gap.
One thing I would check on your car first is the gap between the 2 plates to make sure the gap is right. It may be to big and causing the plates to slip due to wear on the clutch. You can just take out a shim to obtain the correct gap or have to get smaller shims to obtain the gap required, this will depend on if you think the clutch still has a lot of life left in it, so check it out through the inspection hole to see if it looks good and if it does then check the gap at 3 points around the clutch between the plates and reshim if that's all that it requires because it's easier to just reshim then take the whole lot apart then finding out that was all it needed.
The gap should be 0.004 - 0.012 in (0.1 - 0.3 mm) between flywheel and clutch plate lining.
Don't forget to check and adjust the declutching servo as well (check this before dismatling as this can cause the plates to slip if not adjusted correctly) For the internal spring servo (spring inside servo housing, not seen) the gap should be0.28 (7 mm). For the external spring type (spring outside servo housing, seen behind release arm) the gap is between 0.040 - 0.060 (1 - 1.5 mm).
morgan105
