Variomatic - low gear hold switch
-
- Website Admin
- Posts: 2260
- Joined: 29 Dec 2003 01:33 am
- Location: Country of Duvel beer > Belgium <
- Contact:
Ohhh that's the topic I needed, perfect
And I see that Wouter and Will are there
Ok here is my case.
I've tried to help people with a 340 variomatic in Belgium (nice car!), only 90.000 km. The engine didn't run great in N and it was impossible to go from D to R or from R to D without cutting of the engine (horrible noise if we tried..) I've checked and adjusted the carb, that problem is solved, the engine runs very well in N now and it's easy to go from D to R.
BUT, there's another problem: driving the car is like driving with the low gear switch always on!!! The revs are continuously very high, the engine is of course very noisy all the time, uncomfortable to drive, I feel that brake on the engine and it's bad for the engine... But the owner didn't know it because the car has just been bought and he didn't know the "normal" behavior of a 340 variomatic (and I understand it!) But I know there is something wrong on the car... (I didn't mention the fantastic fuel consumption
)
More precision about the problem:
- no revs difference (N or driving) when the low gear switch is on or not. The bulb inside the switch is good but it never illuminates the switch!
- When I put the car in D and press at the same time on the button of the gear selector, when I try to accelerate, the car doesn't shake at all and it accelerates totally normally!! >> not normal! (if it was working good, it would be the same effect as selecting a wrong gear on a 340 with manual gearbox)
Does that mean that the depression system doesn't work (my point of view!) or am I wrong?
Wouter, I've read your explanation, do I have to check the EMVK on the same way that you have explained for our member VarioSi? (hoses to the variomatic and so on)
I've a picture (PIC1) of the EMVK and I must say that I was surprised to see a hose going nowhere!
I was also thinking that it could be the "depression" valve (right word?) on the second picture (PIC2), on the other side of the enginebay; I have removed on of the 2 wires (neutral position) and putted it back, I heared the "CLICK" that I was expecting if it was working...
I hope that someone can help me! Any ideas? Thanks!
PIC1:
Where goes that hose?? Nowhere?

PIC2:




Ok here is my case.
I've tried to help people with a 340 variomatic in Belgium (nice car!), only 90.000 km. The engine didn't run great in N and it was impossible to go from D to R or from R to D without cutting of the engine (horrible noise if we tried..) I've checked and adjusted the carb, that problem is solved, the engine runs very well in N now and it's easy to go from D to R.
BUT, there's another problem: driving the car is like driving with the low gear switch always on!!! The revs are continuously very high, the engine is of course very noisy all the time, uncomfortable to drive, I feel that brake on the engine and it's bad for the engine... But the owner didn't know it because the car has just been bought and he didn't know the "normal" behavior of a 340 variomatic (and I understand it!) But I know there is something wrong on the car... (I didn't mention the fantastic fuel consumption

More precision about the problem:
- no revs difference (N or driving) when the low gear switch is on or not. The bulb inside the switch is good but it never illuminates the switch!
- When I put the car in D and press at the same time on the button of the gear selector, when I try to accelerate, the car doesn't shake at all and it accelerates totally normally!! >> not normal! (if it was working good, it would be the same effect as selecting a wrong gear on a 340 with manual gearbox)
Does that mean that the depression system doesn't work (my point of view!) or am I wrong?
Wouter, I've read your explanation, do I have to check the EMVK on the same way that you have explained for our member VarioSi? (hoses to the variomatic and so on)
I've a picture (PIC1) of the EMVK and I must say that I was surprised to see a hose going nowhere!
I was also thinking that it could be the "depression" valve (right word?) on the second picture (PIC2), on the other side of the enginebay; I have removed on of the 2 wires (neutral position) and putted it back, I heared the "CLICK" that I was expecting if it was working...
I hope that someone can help me! Any ideas? Thanks!
PIC1:
Where goes that hose?? Nowhere?

PIC2:


Collection: '78 343 Black Beauty, '82 345 GLS, '83 340 DL 2.0, '84 340 DL vario, '88 360 GLT 5d (2x) & 4d (2x), '89 GLT, '91 340 vario
Dad's cars: '87 340 vario, '89 340 vario
Lot of donors cars and parts...
V3M for life!
Dad's cars: '87 340 vario, '89 340 vario
Lot of donors cars and parts...
V3M for life!
-
- Posts: 697
- Joined: 04 Jan 2004 10:53 am
- Location: roosendaal - netherlands
- Contact:
- no revs difference (N or driving) when the low gear switch is on or not. The bulb inside the switch is good but it never illuminates the switch!
OK.. this leads me to think the following; (educated guess)
the tacho relay sends current to the EMVK's 'downshift' side if;
- full throttle - kickdown
- hard braking
- low gear hold switch ON
if the bulb in the low gear hold on switch doesn't light, that means one of the other functions is already active.
conclusion;
either the High pressure brake switch, or the throttle cable switch (most likely!) have a bad contact.
the 3 switches are wired in series. if one is open the entire circuit is open -> low gear high revs.
the throttle cable switch (kickdown switch) is located above the accelerator pedal. if you floor it, the switch is pulled down.
sometimes the contacts get a bit corroded. a cleaning/WD40 action may be all that is required.
- When I put the car in D and press at the same time on the button of the gear selector, when I try to accelerate, the car doesn't shake at all and it accelerates totally normally!! >> not normal! (if it was working good, it would be the same effect as selecting a wrong gear on a 340 with manual gearbox)
this is a entirely different issue from the high revs.
it's about the clutch limiter (valve is on 2nd image)
most common problem with that system is the wire connection at the bottom of the gear lever. it flexes when you move the lever, and after years it breaks near a soldering joint.
good luck!
OK.. this leads me to think the following; (educated guess)
the tacho relay sends current to the EMVK's 'downshift' side if;
- full throttle - kickdown
- hard braking
- low gear hold switch ON
if the bulb in the low gear hold on switch doesn't light, that means one of the other functions is already active.
conclusion;
either the High pressure brake switch, or the throttle cable switch (most likely!) have a bad contact.
the 3 switches are wired in series. if one is open the entire circuit is open -> low gear high revs.
the throttle cable switch (kickdown switch) is located above the accelerator pedal. if you floor it, the switch is pulled down.
sometimes the contacts get a bit corroded. a cleaning/WD40 action may be all that is required.
- When I put the car in D and press at the same time on the button of the gear selector, when I try to accelerate, the car doesn't shake at all and it accelerates totally normally!! >> not normal! (if it was working good, it would be the same effect as selecting a wrong gear on a 340 with manual gearbox)
this is a entirely different issue from the high revs.
it's about the clutch limiter (valve is on 2nd image)
most common problem with that system is the wire connection at the bottom of the gear lever. it flexes when you move the lever, and after years it breaks near a soldering joint.
good luck!
-
- Website Admin
- Posts: 2260
- Joined: 29 Dec 2003 01:33 am
- Location: Country of Duvel beer > Belgium <
- Contact:
Thanks for your reaction concerning that problem!
Where is the high pressure brake switch?
Thanks for this good explanation! I really want to rescue that Volvo 340 vario...
Oh! I know that the throttle cable has been replaced by someone (not a Volvo specialist, and I didn't recognize the genuine mechanism in the motorbay); maybe there's something wrong there, I should check all the contacts near the accelerator pedal!antiekeradio wrote:either the High pressure brake switch, or the throttle cable switch (most likely!) have a bad contact.
the 3 switches are wired in series. if one is open the entire circuit is open -> low gear high revs.
the throttle cable switch (kickdown switch) is located above the accelerator pedal. if you floor it, the switch is pulled down.
sometimes the contacts get a bit corroded. a cleaning/WD40 action may be all that is required.
Where is the high pressure brake switch?
Ok, I'll check that too...antiekeradio wrote:most common problem with that system is the wire connection at the bottom of the gear lever. it flexes when you move the lever, and after years it breaks near a soldering joint.
Thanks for this good explanation! I really want to rescue that Volvo 340 vario...
Collection: '78 343 Black Beauty, '82 345 GLS, '83 340 DL 2.0, '84 340 DL vario, '88 360 GLT 5d (2x) & 4d (2x), '89 GLT, '91 340 vario
Dad's cars: '87 340 vario, '89 340 vario
Lot of donors cars and parts...
V3M for life!
Dad's cars: '87 340 vario, '89 340 vario
Lot of donors cars and parts...
V3M for life!
-
- Posts: 697
- Joined: 04 Jan 2004 10:53 am
- Location: roosendaal - netherlands
- Contact:
Oh! I know that the throttle cable has been replaced by someone (not a Volvo specialist,
OK that makes the diagnose 99% certain
there is only 1 wire going to the kickdown switch. If you cannot find a volvo CVT throttle cable, connect it to mass.
this will kill the kickdown fuction, but most of the time elder people never use that anyway
about the high pressure brake switch, it's on the master cilinder
Greetings Wouter
OK that makes the diagnose 99% certain

there is only 1 wire going to the kickdown switch. If you cannot find a volvo CVT throttle cable, connect it to mass.
this will kill the kickdown fuction, but most of the time elder people never use that anyway

about the high pressure brake switch, it's on the master cilinder
Greetings Wouter
Hi Duvel
That pipe fits on to a nipple on the base of the air filter.
Might be unconnected but the 4 way valve on your pic is wired differently to mine (incorrectly?). Mine has the yellow/green and brown wires reversed.
Will
That pipe fits on to a nipple on the base of the air filter.
Might be unconnected but the 4 way valve on your pic is wired differently to mine (incorrectly?). Mine has the yellow/green and brown wires reversed.
Will
You only need two tools: WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and
it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
Started the car from cold this morning, and had it running with choke, in Neutral, I pressed the low gear hold switch - and the revs rised a noticeable amount, and fell when I turned it off...
After driving for a few minutes to the petrol station and it was warm, I tried this again in neutral (with and without choke) and it didn't seem to have an affect
That to me is pretty confusing
Simon
After driving for a few minutes to the petrol station and it was warm, I tried this again in neutral (with and without choke) and it didn't seem to have an affect

That to me is pretty confusing
Simon
Hi again Duvel
Just had a bit of a check with my multimeter and that green/yellow wire goes 12v when the low hold is on. Is it possible that reversed connections are telling the transmission to change down the whole time?
Try switching them and see if this sorts it. It`s maybe a long shot but it may be the problem.
Regards
Will
Just had a bit of a check with my multimeter and that green/yellow wire goes 12v when the low hold is on. Is it possible that reversed connections are telling the transmission to change down the whole time?
Try switching them and see if this sorts it. It`s maybe a long shot but it may be the problem.
Regards
Will
You only need two tools: WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and
it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
-
- Website Admin
- Posts: 2260
- Joined: 29 Dec 2003 01:33 am
- Location: Country of Duvel beer > Belgium <
- Contact:
OK, I know what I have to do now... Thanks!antiekeradio wrote:OK that makes the diagnose 99% certain
there is only 1 wire going to the kickdown switch. If you cannot find a volvo CVT throttle cable, connect it to mass.
Shame that the car isn't here (80 km far away) because I would like to test it immediatly. I'll maybe ask to the owner to take some pictures under the dashboard...
This is strange, I've find another pic with another 340 vario and the wiring is the same as the one on the car with the problem. I'll check on my own 340 variomatic too. Vario_si, how is it wired on your car?wjp01908 wrote:the 4 way valve on your pic is wired differently to mine (incorrectly?). Mine has the yellow/green and brown wires reversed.
This is a good sign! When the engine is warm, if you can't hear a revs difference when the switch is on, just a little change when you turn it on, it means that the carb mixture is good. Higher revs when switch on = mixture too rich / Lower revs when switch on = mixture too poor. Will and Wouter can correct me if I'm wrong!Vario Si wrote: After driving for a few minutes to the petrol station and it was warm, I tried this again in neutral (with and without choke) and it didn't seem to have an affect
Collection: '78 343 Black Beauty, '82 345 GLS, '83 340 DL 2.0, '84 340 DL vario, '88 360 GLT 5d (2x) & 4d (2x), '89 GLT, '91 340 vario
Dad's cars: '87 340 vario, '89 340 vario
Lot of donors cars and parts...
V3M for life!
Dad's cars: '87 340 vario, '89 340 vario
Lot of donors cars and parts...
V3M for life!
-
- Posts: 697
- Joined: 04 Jan 2004 10:53 am
- Location: roosendaal - netherlands
- Contact:
-
- Website Admin
- Posts: 2260
- Joined: 29 Dec 2003 01:33 am
- Location: Country of Duvel beer > Belgium <
- Contact:
Throttle cable changed with a good one (with the kick down mechanism), wire connected to it and...... there is NO difference!!
And the bulb in the low gear switch still doesn't work!!
I go crazy...

And the bulb in the low gear switch still doesn't work!!
I go crazy...
Collection: '78 343 Black Beauty, '82 345 GLS, '83 340 DL 2.0, '84 340 DL vario, '88 360 GLT 5d (2x) & 4d (2x), '89 GLT, '91 340 vario
Dad's cars: '87 340 vario, '89 340 vario
Lot of donors cars and parts...
V3M for life!
Dad's cars: '87 340 vario, '89 340 vario
Lot of donors cars and parts...
V3M for life!
-
- Posts: 697
- Joined: 04 Jan 2004 10:53 am
- Location: roosendaal - netherlands
- Contact:
-
- Website Admin
- Posts: 2260
- Joined: 29 Dec 2003 01:33 am
- Location: Country of Duvel beer > Belgium <
- Contact:
Hello Wouter!
Thanks again for your phone call when V3M was down...
On Skype, that's an idea... when I will install that program lol!
If only I could find a solution for that variomatic problem before the end of the year...
Thanks again for your phone call when V3M was down...

On Skype, that's an idea... when I will install that program lol!
If only I could find a solution for that variomatic problem before the end of the year...
Collection: '78 343 Black Beauty, '82 345 GLS, '83 340 DL 2.0, '84 340 DL vario, '88 360 GLT 5d (2x) & 4d (2x), '89 GLT, '91 340 vario
Dad's cars: '87 340 vario, '89 340 vario
Lot of donors cars and parts...
V3M for life!
Dad's cars: '87 340 vario, '89 340 vario
Lot of donors cars and parts...
V3M for life!
... I finally got round to looking at the car, covers off the transmission... On Boxing Day!
(Whilst there the belts looked okay and the surfaces looked fine)
I saw... an unconnected pipe from the primary side - I connected it, and there is now no longer the air leak when you blow down the right-side pipe of the two parallel pipes leaving the 'thing' under the bonnet.
Starting the car, it did not take as long to start, which was interesting.
These seems to soe improvement in the acceleration with the switch on, but no noticeable difference when the switch is operated whilst driving. Revs are the same on/off.
I guess the pipe which was not connected was the one which gets a vacuum when on low gear hold... I tried running and revving the engine in Neutral a little to see if this pipe sucked, but nothing.
As I said it pulls a little better I think up to 50mph with the switch on, but thats just speculation.
Can someone clarify if that pipe should be sucking when low gear hold on, or maybe this doesnt occur in Neutral?
Hmmmm!
Si
(Whilst there the belts looked okay and the surfaces looked fine)
I saw... an unconnected pipe from the primary side - I connected it, and there is now no longer the air leak when you blow down the right-side pipe of the two parallel pipes leaving the 'thing' under the bonnet.
Starting the car, it did not take as long to start, which was interesting.
These seems to soe improvement in the acceleration with the switch on, but no noticeable difference when the switch is operated whilst driving. Revs are the same on/off.
I guess the pipe which was not connected was the one which gets a vacuum when on low gear hold... I tried running and revving the engine in Neutral a little to see if this pipe sucked, but nothing.
As I said it pulls a little better I think up to 50mph with the switch on, but thats just speculation.
Can someone clarify if that pipe should be sucking when low gear hold on, or maybe this doesnt occur in Neutral?
Hmmmm!
Si