2.0 Engine wont start after changing timing belt

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DaRock
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2.0 Engine wont start after changing timing belt

Post by DaRock » 01 Mar 2008 07:39 pm

hello

today i changed the timing belt of my grandmothers 1982 360 GLT

this is the easiest timing belt i have ever changed ... everything worked fine but now the engine won't start any more ...

i drove to my garage ... so the engine ran bevor i started working ... not very good but it worked ...

1) removed fan
2) removed the two belts for alternator and waterpump
3) removed timing belt cover
4) removed crank pulley by opening the 6 little screws, not the big one in the middle
5) pulled the car forwards that cam-pulley mark matched the mark on the valvecover
6) looked at the mark of the ignition-pulley and saw that it is 1 teeth OFF
7) removed the tenstioner
8) removed the old timing belt which was so loose that i could move it about 4cm up and down on the long side
9) installed the new timing belt with the same crank and cam position, i only moved the ignition pulley to its mark (little dot on pulley -> mark on rear timing belt cover)
10) installed the new tensioner which was the hardest part so far ...
11) then i moved the car back and forth several times to see if everything is correct
12) then i tried to start the engine to see if it is working correctly but ist wasn't starting :(

after this i thought the timing of the crank pulley may be off

then i moved the engine that the marks on the cam pulley matched and removed the timing belt again

after this i looked for a mark on the crank pulley ...

i found zwo marks on the pulles and one mark, looking like an arrow, on the block

the marks were slightly off ... just 2mm i think ... i checked, if this are the correct marks by removing the sparkplug of the first cylinder and look for the piston ... looked good

i moved the crank pulley that the marks matched perfektly
same with ignition and cam pulley

then i reinstalled the timing belt and tried to start again

same think as bevor ... not even one little spark :(

are there any sensors that prevent the engine from starting without a working alternator and waterpump?

i didn't unplug anything else ...

hope you can help me

bernhard

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petefarrell360
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Post by petefarrell360 » 02 Mar 2008 12:42 am

Hi, did you remove or touch the crank position sensor on the bellhousing that reads the holes in the flywheel? If that isn't back in place or is damaged/dirty etc that could be a problem! Check it is plugged in and also check all the connections on the renix unit.

Is it even cranking over, but just with no spark? Or is it not even turning over?

Cheers,

Pete
G reg 360 GLT, G reg 340 GL Variomatic, plus many more..........

DaRock
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Post by DaRock » 02 Mar 2008 03:00 am

i didn't touch or unplug any sensor ... i even don't know where this crank position sensor is :?

i forgot to check if the sparks are fireing ... i will do that today ...

the engine is cranking over but it seems like just with no spark ...

batterie is full ... engine should work without the alternator and the waterpump ...

my honda has a switch that turns of the ignition an fuelpump in case of an accident ... somethimes this switches shut down because of unknown reasons while working on the engine ...

does the volvo also has such a system?

thanks
bernhard

pettaw
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Post by pettaw » 02 Mar 2008 11:09 am

I suspect you haven't lined up the auxiliary pulley correctly. The third one with the big wheel that feels like it doesn't do anything also has a mark which should be lined up with the belt marks and also the mark on the casing. This pulley drives the rotor arm so that needs to be in line also.

Hope that helps.

DaRock
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Post by DaRock » 02 Mar 2008 12:19 pm

pettaw wrote:I suspect you haven't lined up the auxiliary pulley correctly. The third one with the big wheel that feels like it doesn't do anything also has a mark which should be lined up with the belt marks and also the mark on the casing. This pulley drives the rotor arm so that needs to be in line also.

Hope that helps.
this really helps because i was wondering why there are those white marks on the belt

can you please tell me how i have to set this right?

but the crank and the cam are set correctly or not?

i have lined up the two marks on the crank with this little arrow on the block

the cam pulley has a mark which i lined up with the mark on the valve cover ...

bernhard

DaRock
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Post by DaRock » 02 Mar 2008 01:09 pm

engine is running

i'm so stupid :lol:

there is a kable running from the distributor to the ignition modul (little black part) and the big plug wasn't plugged in any more ...

after plugging it in engine started right after the third turn ;)

thanks for your help

bernhard

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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 06 Mar 2008 01:15 am

I was about to say exactly that...but I'm too late to the thread :)

For future reference...300s didn't have Renix before...er...1985?...so no crank position sensor or flywheel with timing marks. Instead, they use a hall sensor in the distributor (like a 240)...and it was the lead from that which was causing the problem in this case.

You were on the right lines Pete - it's the piece of kit which performs the same function as the CPS! I think you need to get yourself an early GLT ;)

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...

DaRock
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Post by DaRock » 06 Mar 2008 12:07 pm

sunday i drove the car back to my grandmother ...

everything seems to be ok ...

engine is running really strong and without any vibrations at idle after it is fully warmed up ...

i love this engine ... it has so much torque from idle up to about 5500 that you dont have to shift if you want to accelerate fast ...

over all a really good car :D

das anyone know how to change the wheel-bearings of the front wheels?

bernhard

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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 07 Mar 2008 12:20 am

There is a really good thread on the subject somewhere on here...try a search. It's not too tricky, but try to get hold of genuine Volvo wheel bearings...or SKF brand ones.

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...

redline
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Post by redline » 07 Mar 2008 08:30 am

I just love the image of a grandmother hooning around in a GLT :lol:
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DaRock
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Post by DaRock » 07 Mar 2008 10:11 am

redline wrote:I just love the image of a grandmother hooning around in a GLT :lol:
my granny can't drive any more ... but she has someone who drives for her ...

about 28000km of the 31408km my dad drove while he was studing about 25 years ago ... the car was parked in a garage nearly its whole life ... now I'm driving with it sometimes to see if everything is OK with it ... its a pretty rare car in austria and i want that it lasts another 26 years ;) ...

bernhard

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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 07 Mar 2008 07:09 pm

Good for you :) And being an 82, it's one of the very first 360s.

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...

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trabitom99
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Post by trabitom99 » 07 Mar 2008 08:30 pm

DaRock wrote:its a pretty rare car in austria and i want that it lasts another 26 years ;) ...
bernhard
Extremely rare, across the whole of mainland Europe! If you want it to last, you'll either have to give rust protection some consideration, or be a "fair weather" driver ;-)

Tom
343 GL Touring B14.1E CVT (155) 98000kms 1980 (sold)
343 L Junior B14.3E MT4 (155) 229000kms 1981 (scrapped)
343 DLS B19A MT4 (155) 167900kms 1982
360 GL Injection B200F MT5 (231) 348598kms 1988 (scrapped)
360 GLT B200F MT5 (302) 230000kms 1988

classicswede
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Post by classicswede » 08 Mar 2008 12:30 pm

Or better still do both
Dai

Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk

http://www.classicswede.com

phone/text 07824887160

Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/

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