Just for curiosity...LH2.4 B200?

[foggyjames]

You'll have no problems bud...just set aside a few hours with the diagram and some good music!

cheers

James

[Nimminz]

Here's the turbo one:



I have NOT checked it over yet so some things may be wrong.
Differences are:
WOT contact on Throttle position sensor is not connected (except with "high output system" where it is connected to EZK (4) and ECU (25))
Coil is not powered from EZK power, instead from fused live from Fuse 1
Series resistance thing that the Injectors connect to before the radio interference relay (wire colour changes here too)
AMM pin 6 is only connected to ECU pin 9 on B230GT engines.

Aye that's the way like bit of music and a comfy seat, probablys do it sat in the car haha

[foggyjames]

WOT contact on Throttle position sensor is not connected (except with "high output system" where it is connected to EZK (4) and ECU (25))

"High output system" is "Turbo+" - extra boost via an Amal valve above 4000rpm with wide open throttle (hence the connection to the WOT pin) and no knock! It requires an add-on loom. To be honest...I'd be tempted to leave that off in order to keep things simple. If people want Turbo+, there are other guides out there. Definitely doesn't connect to the ECUs on those cars though...it just goes directly to the Turbo+ computer.

AMM pin 6 is only connected to ECU pin 9 on B230GT engines.

I suspect (but don't know) that that is also true for FTs, and that's a typo on Volvo's part. The FT and GT are almost identical - the GT just doesn't have a cat.

Other points...the "Dia" socket is entirely optional - I left it off Adam's car. (The actual reason is that he unplugged the under-bonnet module, and I just removed the wires on the socket on the loom, knowing they weren't for anything immediately useful...only realising later what they actually were for!). Same for the instrument cluster. Strictly speaking it does some clever crap with the speed sensor signal involving emissions when coasting, but it's absolutely optional, and the only actually useful wire is the one off the coil, for the rev counter.

Very impressive work dude. That will make life a lot easier for everyone! Can I suggest a higher resolution version, though? It's just a little bit hard to read!

What I'm aiming to do next is a "practical" version....i.e. what this actually means when you have the loom in front of you. You've saved me a ton of work though I have a spare 940 loom in the loft, so I see a strip-down in my future...

cheers

James

[Chris_C]

Keep the diag port. It rocks having a 300 with OBD...

Nimminz, I know they havn't been checked, but great work mate, this will really secure in your mind how to do your LH swap too.

[foggyjames]

Yeah, I'd recommend keeping it...but equally I didn't feel motivated to put it back in once removed!

Works thus...
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineOBDCodes.html

cheers

James

[Nimminz]

Thanks for the comments!

Yeah i was unsure about including the Turbo + thing but if there are guides about it elsewhere i'll take it off. So knock sensor is just removed on Turbo +?

AMM pin 6 - I'll check it out and see if i can find what it does, that might shed some light. That's my plan for checking everything, Find out WHAT each wire DOES and in doing so i should be able to check it completely.

I'll take off the 2 other dash wires, and just leave the one for speedo and label it

OBD will stay on my car, i like things like that Will label it as optional on the diagram tho.

The resolution.... Never checked it when i exported it as a JPEG, will probably end up as a PDF finally. Next one i upload will be higher / PDF

Has simplified the whole thing in my head, can't wait to go getting the loom and ecu and everything

Thanks for all the help!!!!

EDIT: found some volvo part numbers for the coolant temp sensor:
360 : 460191
940 (91 onwards b200f): 1346030
So chances re they are different, Bosch numbers seem hard to find out, not been looking particularily hard yet though lol

[foggyjames]

No, sorry...I didn't make that clear. The Turbo+ piggybacks onto the connection from the knock sensor to the EZK box...it's still connected to EZK. It might even be connected to a "help, I'm knocking!" output from EZK...I can't exactly remember. Either way, it doesn't affect your wiring diagram re: the knock sensor. Both links (WOT pin and knock sensor) for Turbo+ are on the bullet-type connectors on the bulkhead connector blocks. I've got an installation guide kicking around somewhere here, if anyone is interested.

I still need to figure out what is the best thing to use for the 360 rev counter...the negative coil terminal (I assume that's best), or the RPM pin for the cluster on the EZK box. If it's the latter, leaving that in might be neater.

The speedo connection is optional (doesn't do much...idle compensation when coasting? I've not heard of anyone missing it...), and can't be connected on the 360 (unless you add the 440 pickup on the back of the speedo...maybe...? I saw someone (Liam? Or was it on Jon's valver?) had done this. Does anyone know what the 440 pickup kicks out? Voltage, waveform, etc...?).

I hope you're taking this the right way, by the way...I'm not criticising...I'm musing / thinking aloud. It's a very interesting project, and I'm keen to assist.

cheers

James

[Chris_C]

Don't forget Renix has a rev counter output pin, so I would connect it to the EZK output. Fake is running off of the Fenix rev counter o/p.

Most of us running F7x's have 440 speedo pickups and again it's what I'd go for here, it's no different from memory to that lash up you had on FDD for the trip computer on the halfshaft electronically, but a lot more sexy.

[Nimminz]

Ah right, I get you now.
I'd be interested in seeing the installation guide even though it doesn't affect the diagram
On the current version of the diagram i'm doing I've left the EZK rpm pin connected to dash for rev counter, although if i swap the renix for EZK i could always leave the renix in just for the rev counter if the EZK output doesn't work?
Yeah that idle compensation thing, can't work out what it does so probs isn't needed but i'll stick it as a dotted line for 'optional'
The other ECU pin that goes to the dash (pin 22 (Bn-W)) is for a 'check engine' light i think - see this diagram : http://www.electronikrepair.com/page7.html
Might keep that on my car (optional on my new diagram) and sick it to the coke light (as mine has no choke )

Aye mate is great to have people interested, all comments are received with great thanks!

Chis, aye the plan is to try the rpm output from EZK first then work from there.

I'll stick the next diagram up when i finish ammending it

Thanks for the continuing interest!!

[foggyjames]

Yeah, absolutely - it's just a matter of checking signal compatibility...on both fronts! If the Renix pin is coil negative / trigger then attaching the 300 tach to the LH coil negative / trigger will definitely work. When it comes to the EZK pin, that depends on what that pin does, but I bet it drops to ground whenever the coil is triggered, so does the same as the coil negative...so it'll work. It's something that's easily tested, anyway. I could try it on Adam's car (once it has oil pressure!).

Same for the speedo signal: if the signal format is the same, then I'd definitely connect it. When I was looking at adding cruise control to my 360, I looked into this. The trip computer produces two 'blips' per rotation, whereas the 940 speedo signal is 6 or 8, IIRC (it's in VADIS). I pretty much ran out of steam at that point, but the solution might have been as simple as adding the 440 pickup. Does anyone know what the 440 thingy kicks out?

Good point re: the check engine light. Not much point in keeping the diagnostic gubbins without the light.

cheers

James

[Nimminz]

THINK!!! I'm pretty much finished the B200 one, made a nice PDF, the pages are HUGE so no problems reading it and the filesize is about 600Kb so will download in a second. Just after finding somewhere to put it on so i can post a link

I'm going to start looking about for odd parts at least and start thinking of other things for my swap that might be needed / needed to be fabricated. AMM bracket sort of thing. Want the install to look OEM but with the ecu in the engine bay :/

Fun times is coming

EDIT: here it is, let me know what happens when you click it as i dunno what the hosting is like

[foggyjames]

Cracking stuff!

Just a thought...the factory ECU connector isn't waterproof, so popping that in the cabin (like the factory LE-Jet installation) is probably a wise move. You should be able to make most of the loom waterproof.

cheers

James

[Nimminz]

hmm yes, i never thourght of that. as the EZK box is inside too, that probebly wont be waterproof either.

Might look into making a box to house the ECU and EZK, LH relay, Fuses, Diagnostics port and any interconnecting wires, sensors can plug into sockets chassis mounted on said box, then there will only be a few wires coming out for things like power and the check engine light.

Been thinking of getting rid of the standard air filter when i do this, using a foam/cone one or something so could possibly use the airbox mounts for the box...

I should really write all this down somewhere!

[foggyjames]

Sounds like a lot of work (extra connectors, etc) when the loom already (more or less) exists. Is there a particular reason you don't want them in the cabin (where, at the risk of pointing out something you already know) the LE ECU lives...and for which a large "loom hole" is provided...?

cheers

James

[Nimminz]

Not that i dont want them in the cabin, just seemed right to put engine related stuff in the engine bay, althogh volvo probably did it different for a reason. As i'd want to leave all the LE stuff in place in the first stages of installing and testing the LH, space may be limited in bulkhead holes? Neatness also but it all depends what i end up with when i have all the parts together.

I can't really decide much until i actually have stuff infront of me so is all just ideas Suppose for the most OEM looking install it would be an in-cabin placement for ECUs. Would mean it could be easier have diagnostics port inside... Hmm

ATM i'm collecting some photos of parts such as air mass meter and diagnostics port so that i have some ideas about placement. Been scanning through a few b230 conversion threads too. mainly just to see what i'll be faced with when removing the loom from the 940 i find

EDIT:
Found a useful PDF with bosch part numbers in for different b2xx engines, just to work out which one is mine as it seems to neglect the b200e in most of the boxes

Volvo Temperature Sensor/Sender
Vehicle Application Year Opt. System OE Ref. No. VM Ref. No. ATP Pt. No.
240/340/360/440/460/ 480/740/760/780/940/ 960 84-95 Bosch (replaces original black part) 0 280 130 032 1 346 030 XSAT017
3433477

Guess that means existing coolant temp sensor will be ok