Is it worth fixing?

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Grendel
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Is it worth fixing?

Post by Grendel » 12 Apr 2005 10:43 am

:340: I have a 1988 340GL 1.4 with 250K+ on the clock that has now developed a small crack in manifold and apparently the carb needs re-conditioning. The car still runs without any major problems as yet and as far as I can see the bodywork is ok for a MOT pass but the car is probably only worth £400 if that so are these problems economically viable to repair by a mechanic? Or should I just let the old beast run until the MOT expires in Sep then scrap it if it cant pass because of these faults?

wjp01908
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Post by wjp01908 » 12 Apr 2005 12:40 pm

Hi Grendel

Depends what you mean by economically viable really. If you mean would it cost more for a mechanic to repair than the value of the car then the answer would probably be yes (£400 would be hopeful!).

Fixing it yourself however makes it a much more viable proposition esp. if you use parts from a scrap car. Even for the most cack handed mechanic, a new manifold should not be too much of a problem. Even if you have to buy a socket set it should be very cheap to do and will give you a sense of satisfaction at being a little less reliant on expensive garages.

Maybe one of our members round your way would be able to help...

If the car is running OK, the carb isn`t likely to be too bad and will probably soldier on for a while.

BTW 250K for a 1.4 is pretty good going

Will

Grendel
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Post by Grendel » 12 Apr 2005 01:01 pm

wjp01908 wrote:Hi Grendel

BTW 250K for a 1.4 is pretty good going

Will
Opps done it again i mean 150513 miles on clock :roll: D'oh! Not 250K.

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Chris_C
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Post by Chris_C » 12 Apr 2005 05:12 pm

I'll give help if I can (have got my project due in soon, but can work around that). Have socket set etc, is it just a filter, carb, old one off, new one on effort Will? And gaskets from Volvo?

Theres a few good scrappies around too, so the 'new' one should be too hard to get.
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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 12 Apr 2005 07:10 pm

Presumably the cracked manifold is the exhaust manifold?

150k is still good going! My 340 project car, Nessy (aka: the one Hugh didn't crash), has 182k on the clock, and I'm trying to get her to 200k on the original engine (before it gets removed and replaced with something downright gratuitous). I've got a devious plan for achieving 200k (he says with an evil grin) which is slowly formulating....let's just say we might see another female V3Mmer if all goes according to plan :)

cheers

James
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SteveP
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Post by SteveP » 12 Apr 2005 07:31 pm

foggyjames wrote:I've got a devious plan for achieving 200k (he says with an evil grin) which is slowly formulating....let's just say we might see another female V3Mmer if all goes according to plan :)
You have too many devious plans! I thought this might've involved a rolling road and a brick :lol:
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wjp01908
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Post by wjp01908 » 12 Apr 2005 08:58 pm

" is it just a filter, carb, old one off, new one on effort Will"

That`s about the size of it. Start putting penetrating oil on the nuts a few days beforehand. Probably a good idea to have some spares.

Some of them are a complete PITA to reach, so it`s worth taking out the washer reservoir.

Tighten manifold to head first, manifold to downpipe second then pipe to clutch housing last.

Enjoy

Will

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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 12 Apr 2005 09:01 pm

SteveP wrote:I thought this might've involved a rolling road and a brick :lol:
Haha...about the intelligence of a brick... (ducks punch from the lady of the house). She's gotta learn how to drive first...and I gotta make Nessy roadworthy! We'll see....it's only a plan at this stage.

cheers

James
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'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
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'79 343 DL
'70 164
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petefarrell360
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Post by petefarrell360 » 12 Apr 2005 09:54 pm

Both cunning plans there chaps, how about combining the two, let her learn to drive on the rolling road! Now in theory the risk of crashing is greatly reduced!
Pete

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Post by V6 Man » 12 Apr 2005 10:08 pm

petefarrell360 wrote:Both cunning plans there chaps, how about combining the two, let her learn to drive on the rolling road! Now in theory the risk of crashing is greatly reduced!
Pete
You've not met her, have you............?
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petefarrell360
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Post by petefarrell360 » 12 Apr 2005 10:11 pm

sm66 Oh, no I haven't met the famous Ruth! Really, her driving can't be that bad! sm100
Pete

daffodil
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Post by daffodil » 12 Apr 2005 10:30 pm

hi i have spare manifolds its not a long job to change its 1 or 2 hours max if you need any parts you can e-mail me
many thanks martin

Grendel
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Post by Grendel » 13 Apr 2005 10:57 am

Thanks for that.
At the moment its been tightend up and seems to be working resonable OK ATM. But if it gets worse i'll be in touch. :D

Grendel
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Post by Grendel » 14 Apr 2005 03:49 pm

daffodil wrote:hi i have spare manifolds its not a long job to change its 1 or 2 hours max if you need any parts you can e-mail me
many thanks martin
Just a thought but how much do you want for the 1.4 340 manifold and could you post it to Southampton?

All I should need to fit it will be a exhaust manifold gasket and gasket sealant cream from Halfords I presume?

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Post by pettaw » 15 Apr 2005 07:32 am

wjp01908 wrote:" is it just a filter, carb, old one off, new one on effort Will"

That`s about the size of it. Start putting penetrating oil on the nuts a few days beforehand. Probably a good idea to have some spares.

Some of them are a complete PITA to reach, so it`s worth taking out the washer reservoir.

Tighten manifold to head first, manifold to downpipe second then pipe to clutch housing last.

Enjoy

Will
Yep, second that, the manifold to downpipe nuts are a complete PITA. They're good quality nuts so they don't really seize on, but they're just extremely difficult to get at. TBH I don't remember how we got at them. I do remember having to take the manifold off with the exhaust still attached and then getting at the nuts afterwards with the manifold half on half off the car! The others should all be reasonably easy.

Andy

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