I have just aquired a very solid and clean low mileage Volvo 340 GL Auto, with a full main dealer service history from new.
I have never had one with a CVT Clutch system but I am convinced that it requires some servicing and checking because it seems to rev far to high for any given road speed; also takes along time to get up to required speed. The kickdown however always produces a good burst of speed. Also at slow speeds (ie cruising to a stop there is a distinct "pulsing" of the power delivery.
So I am thinking; worn uneven clutch plate? or tolerances out ?
Ideally I want to find someone in the Somerset area who knows the Volvo CVT system well to check it out but I dont know anyone javascript:emoticon('sm65')
Anyone out there able to suggest someone who can help!!!
Love the site by the way... excellent.javascript:emoticon('sm87')
Advice on Servicing a CVT
Advice on Servicing a CVT
Owned a B Reg 360 GTL many years ago; fantastic car but the next fastet moving dial to the Speedo was the fuel gauge! Now just got an 89 340 GL (Auto - CVT)
One for me I think!
"it seems to rev far to high for any given road speed"
You would be amazed how often people think this - they usually say something along the lines of it "being stuck in second"
A CVT goes up to it`s maximum torque band and stays there until the car catches up or you ease off the gas. If you accelerate to about 50 and you ease off the gas gently the car should stay at the same road speed and the revs drop. If the box is stuck in a low ratio the engine will be screaming it`s nuts off at this speed. (check you`re not driving it with the low hold engaged! - button next to the rear screen wash/wipe with a white triangle on it).
If this changing up does not occur there are a number of possibilities.
Under the bonnet there is a valve with 4 pipes coming off it and a few wires - this is the valve that supplies engine vacumm to the gearbox and controls it`s ratio changing. Check all the pipework is secure and not leaking.
Run the engine in N and with the bonnet up and your head out the window, give the engine a rev. there should be a pronounced click from this valve at about 1700rpm. This will be the valve switching in.
Pull off the pipes that lead down and to the back of the car and check that when the valve switches you get suction at the points you pulled the pipes off. Best do this one at a time. If this is the case your 4 way valve is OK.
Blow hard down the pipes to the back one at a time. You should get some air in and when you stop it should blow back at you - a bit like blowing up a balloon
If you get none in, the box is jammed and may need surgery or the pipework may be kinked or blocked.
If you can keep blowing either one of the diaphragms (bad news) has gone, or much more likely one of the tubes has come off at the gearbox. Take the shields off and feel around at the front of the box for the pipes and the bits they go onto. (2 on each side - different diameters so you can`t mix them up even in the dark!) Pipes may also be leaking.
General maintenance is fairly straightforward - belts need changing (crap job) and adjusting from time to time and the gearbox oil needs changing every 2 years.
Let me know if you need any more info. Sadly Somerset is a bit out of my way otherwise I`d come and have a look.
Regards
Will
"it seems to rev far to high for any given road speed"
You would be amazed how often people think this - they usually say something along the lines of it "being stuck in second"
A CVT goes up to it`s maximum torque band and stays there until the car catches up or you ease off the gas. If you accelerate to about 50 and you ease off the gas gently the car should stay at the same road speed and the revs drop. If the box is stuck in a low ratio the engine will be screaming it`s nuts off at this speed. (check you`re not driving it with the low hold engaged! - button next to the rear screen wash/wipe with a white triangle on it).
If this changing up does not occur there are a number of possibilities.
Under the bonnet there is a valve with 4 pipes coming off it and a few wires - this is the valve that supplies engine vacumm to the gearbox and controls it`s ratio changing. Check all the pipework is secure and not leaking.
Run the engine in N and with the bonnet up and your head out the window, give the engine a rev. there should be a pronounced click from this valve at about 1700rpm. This will be the valve switching in.
Pull off the pipes that lead down and to the back of the car and check that when the valve switches you get suction at the points you pulled the pipes off. Best do this one at a time. If this is the case your 4 way valve is OK.
Blow hard down the pipes to the back one at a time. You should get some air in and when you stop it should blow back at you - a bit like blowing up a balloon
If you get none in, the box is jammed and may need surgery or the pipework may be kinked or blocked.
If you can keep blowing either one of the diaphragms (bad news) has gone, or much more likely one of the tubes has come off at the gearbox. Take the shields off and feel around at the front of the box for the pipes and the bits they go onto. (2 on each side - different diameters so you can`t mix them up even in the dark!) Pipes may also be leaking.
General maintenance is fairly straightforward - belts need changing (crap job) and adjusting from time to time and the gearbox oil needs changing every 2 years.
Let me know if you need any more info. Sadly Somerset is a bit out of my way otherwise I`d come and have a look.
Regards
Will
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petefarrell360
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- Posts: 3083
- Joined: 11 Oct 2004 07:12 pm
- Location: Bucks, UK
Advice on Servicing a CVT
Thanks Will
You know.. your probably right. I had a drive in her tonight and I think I am getting used to it. Also realised that the lack of progress accelaration wise is partly due to my "instinct" to knock back the accelerator pedal to "avoid" revving the engine (sort of a negative feedback loop!)
It may well be that there is nothing wrong with it.. certainly the rest of the car has been cherished and been well maintained.
BTW if you want to see the car I purchased it was on e-bay at:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... RK:MEWN:IT
Understand the principle of investigating the vacumm servo though.. very useful.. so I will check that out for piece of mind anyway.
Mucho Grasias javascript:emoticon('sm15')
You know.. your probably right. I had a drive in her tonight and I think I am getting used to it. Also realised that the lack of progress accelaration wise is partly due to my "instinct" to knock back the accelerator pedal to "avoid" revving the engine (sort of a negative feedback loop!)
It may well be that there is nothing wrong with it.. certainly the rest of the car has been cherished and been well maintained.
BTW if you want to see the car I purchased it was on e-bay at:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... RK:MEWN:IT
Understand the principle of investigating the vacumm servo though.. very useful.. so I will check that out for piece of mind anyway.
Mucho Grasias javascript:emoticon('sm15')
Owned a B Reg 360 GTL many years ago; fantastic car but the next fastet moving dial to the Speedo was the fuel gauge! Now just got an 89 340 GL (Auto - CVT)
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petefarrell360
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 3083
- Joined: 11 Oct 2004 07:12 pm
- Location: Bucks, UK
Advice on Servicing a CVT
Actually there is just one thing that still bothers me most and that this pronounced feeling of the drive power pulsing. It can be sensed at all speeds but is more evident at slow speeds. Instinctively I just feel this is uneven wear on the clutch plate.. what do y'all think?
javascript:emoticon('sm14')
javascript:emoticon('sm14')
Owned a B Reg 360 GTL many years ago; fantastic car but the next fastet moving dial to the Speedo was the fuel gauge! Now just got an 89 340 GL (Auto - CVT)
hi every thing that wjp has said is correct
there are a couple of adjustments that are crucial
they are clutch adjustment....and drive belt adjustment
the first....check cluth adjustment you measure it by feeler gauge
no more than about 15-20 thou feeler gauge should slide up against the clutch friction disc
if it is more than this you can adjust the clutch by way of shims around the clutch pressure plate
drive belts....on the primary pulley (the one towards the front of the car)
there should be a gap of around 20 thou between the 2 pulley halves
you can adjust this by slackening the
bolts that hold the secondry unit about 6 bolts and then anjusting the adjusting nut between the primary unit and secondry unit
hope this helps
there are a couple of adjustments that are crucial
they are clutch adjustment....and drive belt adjustment
the first....check cluth adjustment you measure it by feeler gauge
no more than about 15-20 thou feeler gauge should slide up against the clutch friction disc
if it is more than this you can adjust the clutch by way of shims around the clutch pressure plate
drive belts....on the primary pulley (the one towards the front of the car)
there should be a gap of around 20 thou between the 2 pulley halves
you can adjust this by slackening the
bolts that hold the secondry unit about 6 bolts and then anjusting the adjusting nut between the primary unit and secondry unit
hope this helps
Advice on Servicing a CVT
Yup thanks
I have an artical posted on the Volvo Owners Website which describes the adjustment you mention in fair detail; for anyone else who wants to se it the link is:
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/cvt_clutch.htm
I dont have a ramp or pit so that is why I am looking for someone with the savvy and facilities to help me check it out.
Thanks for reply
javascript:emoticon('sm15')
... better go to bed now.. up at 5am ! yuk
javascript:emoticon('sm73')
I have an artical posted on the Volvo Owners Website which describes the adjustment you mention in fair detail; for anyone else who wants to se it the link is:
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/cvt_clutch.htm
I dont have a ramp or pit so that is why I am looking for someone with the savvy and facilities to help me check it out.
Thanks for reply
javascript:emoticon('sm15')
... better go to bed now.. up at 5am ! yuk
javascript:emoticon('sm73')
Owned a B Reg 360 GTL many years ago; fantastic car but the next fastet moving dial to the Speedo was the fuel gauge! Now just got an 89 340 GL (Auto - CVT)
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Duvel78
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Vmax, I really like your signature! 
"Owned a B Reg 360 GTL many years ago; fantastic car but the next fastet moving dial to the Speedo was the fuel gauge! Now just got an 89 340 GL (Auto - CVT)"
Not sure your 340 vario will be better for that point... 
"Owned a B Reg 360 GTL many years ago; fantastic car but the next fastet moving dial to the Speedo was the fuel gauge! Now just got an 89 340 GL (Auto - CVT)"
Not sure your 340 vario will be better for that point... Collection: '78 343 Black Beauty, '82 345 GLS, '83 340 DL 2.0, '84 340 DL vario, '88 360 GLT 5d (2x) & 4d (2x), '89 GLT, '91 340 vario
Dad's cars: '87 340 vario, '89 340 vario
Lot of donors cars and parts...
V3M for life!
Dad's cars: '87 340 vario, '89 340 vario
Lot of donors cars and parts...
V3M for life!
"Actually there is just one thing that still bothers me most and that this pronounced feeling of the drive power pulsing. It can be sensed at all speeds but is more evident at slow speeds. Instinctively I just feel this is uneven wear on the clutch plate.. what do y'all think?"
This does ring a bit of a bell - my power delivery sometimes feels a bit uneven as the car is coming to rest - there is sometimes a bit of a feeling of a lurch - I think as the clutch disengages at low revs and the car loses engine braking. It is OK during normal running though. Somtimes there is a feeling at low speeds (parking etc) that the clutch can`t decide wether to be in or out and the backlash in the gearbox and drive is taken up and dropped etc. Does this make sense?
Could also be the belts beginning to break up - they look toothed though they run in smooth pulleys. The first sign that they are past their best is that the teeth begin to break off.
Because the gearbox works by moving cone shaped pulley halves together and apart (belt between halves) changing the effective diameter, a section without teeth will allow the pulleys to pull together a bit more than usual every time the belt goes round giving a pulsing.
I`ve had this before and it got so bad the pulleys were actually banging together with a loud clang at each rev. of the wheels. javascript:emoticon(':oops:')
Embarassed
Whip the shields off the gearbox and if you find any black rubber wedges about 1.5cm in section and about 5cm long in them, those are the teeth.
Belts are about £80 and are a bit of a bugger to fit - not technically difficult, just hard, dirty work under the car work. You may find it hard to find a mechanic who knows how to do them and DIY will save you a packet. Worth getting some ramps.
Regards
Will
Had a look at the car - same as mine! (colour, trim etc)
This does ring a bit of a bell - my power delivery sometimes feels a bit uneven as the car is coming to rest - there is sometimes a bit of a feeling of a lurch - I think as the clutch disengages at low revs and the car loses engine braking. It is OK during normal running though. Somtimes there is a feeling at low speeds (parking etc) that the clutch can`t decide wether to be in or out and the backlash in the gearbox and drive is taken up and dropped etc. Does this make sense?
Could also be the belts beginning to break up - they look toothed though they run in smooth pulleys. The first sign that they are past their best is that the teeth begin to break off.
Because the gearbox works by moving cone shaped pulley halves together and apart (belt between halves) changing the effective diameter, a section without teeth will allow the pulleys to pull together a bit more than usual every time the belt goes round giving a pulsing.
I`ve had this before and it got so bad the pulleys were actually banging together with a loud clang at each rev. of the wheels. javascript:emoticon(':oops:')
Embarassed
Whip the shields off the gearbox and if you find any black rubber wedges about 1.5cm in section and about 5cm long in them, those are the teeth.
Belts are about £80 and are a bit of a bugger to fit - not technically difficult, just hard, dirty work under the car work. You may find it hard to find a mechanic who knows how to do them and DIY will save you a packet. Worth getting some ramps.
Regards
Will
Had a look at the car - same as mine! (colour, trim etc)
Advice on Servicing a CVT
Thanks to all replies... as for fuel consumption; it is a 1.4 so I am hoping for at least 30-35 mpg!
As for breaking up belts and bits of rubber Ooh er.. now your scaring me ('sm43')
Trouble is I am still trying to absorb how the system should work properly let alone figure out the faults.. but I appreciate the insight I am sure it will be useful.
The reality is I am not really geared up for DIY on that scale.. so I am just going to have to dig up an old time-served Volvo mechanic from somewhere!
No of ye such a beast!
Happy Days
(':340:')
As for breaking up belts and bits of rubber Ooh er.. now your scaring me ('sm43')
Trouble is I am still trying to absorb how the system should work properly let alone figure out the faults.. but I appreciate the insight I am sure it will be useful.
The reality is I am not really geared up for DIY on that scale.. so I am just going to have to dig up an old time-served Volvo mechanic from somewhere!
No of ye such a beast!
Happy Days
(':340:')
Owned a B Reg 360 GTL many years ago; fantastic car but the next fastet moving dial to the Speedo was the fuel gauge! Now just got an 89 340 GL (Auto - CVT)
Sorry - don`t mean to be scary.
It was just an idea and may not be the cause of your fault in any case.
It doesn`t really require much in the way of equipment - just a socket set will do. The ramps are a good idea though as you need room to pull the belts with a bit of weight to get the pulleys open and you dont really want to be doing that if it`s on stands or a jack.
Have you got the Haynes manual for the car? It provides a very good overview of how the trans. functions as well as how to do the belts.
If you want a scan of the relevant pages just email me and I`ll send them
"No of ye such a beast! "
Well, yes, but he`s just round the corner from me in Milton Keynes and possibly a bit out of your way!
Regards
Will
It was just an idea and may not be the cause of your fault in any case.
It doesn`t really require much in the way of equipment - just a socket set will do. The ramps are a good idea though as you need room to pull the belts with a bit of weight to get the pulleys open and you dont really want to be doing that if it`s on stands or a jack.
Have you got the Haynes manual for the car? It provides a very good overview of how the trans. functions as well as how to do the belts.
If you want a scan of the relevant pages just email me and I`ll send them
"No of ye such a beast! "
Well, yes, but he`s just round the corner from me in Milton Keynes and possibly a bit out of your way!
Regards
Will
Advice on Servicing a CVT
Thanks for replies folks...
Actually the "not up to the DIY" is more a question of time than willingness to get my hands dirty.
I work as an HGV Driver and start at 5am.. typical 50-60 hr week.. great money but what time it leaves is precious! Appreciate the offer of help Martin.. I will certainly refer any "googlies" thrown up by an inspection your way.. (ie mechanic standing there scratching his head saying "er well.. s'not really my field mate!)
Appreciate the forum.. and ALL the suggestions.
Will post updates as they come.
('340pw')
Actually the "not up to the DIY" is more a question of time than willingness to get my hands dirty.
I work as an HGV Driver and start at 5am.. typical 50-60 hr week.. great money but what time it leaves is precious! Appreciate the offer of help Martin.. I will certainly refer any "googlies" thrown up by an inspection your way.. (ie mechanic standing there scratching his head saying "er well.. s'not really my field mate!)
Appreciate the forum.. and ALL the suggestions.
Will post updates as they come.
('340pw')
Owned a B Reg 360 GTL many years ago; fantastic car but the next fastet moving dial to the Speedo was the fuel gauge! Now just got an 89 340 GL (Auto - CVT)
Advice on Servicing a CVT
.. p.s Yes just aquired a manual from E-bay. So once digested I may have a better idea of how I can apply all your tips.
'sm40'
'sm40'
Owned a B Reg 360 GTL many years ago; fantastic car but the next fastet moving dial to the Speedo was the fuel gauge! Now just got an 89 340 GL (Auto - CVT)