Hi guys,
I have found a water leakage in the cylinder head of my B19E under the spark plug 2 and between the first two exhaust tubes...
Is it a cap that I can change ? How can I fix that ? Do I have to weld it ?
Sorry to bother you but I can't use my car anymore until I get this issue fixed !!!
Thanks a lot mates for your helpful advices...thanks god there is volvo300mania forum ...because over here no one can help me ...

Me : "Hi, I have a problem with...bla bla bla..."
Mechanics : "Oh this is the first time I see this car...is that a volvo ?" LOL

David.

Not sure where that is exactly, but looks like a core plug. Its just a bit of dome shaped steel. I believe you just punch it with a screw driver and lever out carefully, or possibly use a large self tapping screw. You just tap in a new one, maybe with some liquid sealer.

You may have to remove the head to get at it properly. Any decent engine internals part supplier or reconditioner should have standard core plugs.

Thanks a lot "Ride_on" for your reply
It seems that this plug is designed to pull out of the cylinder head if the water freezes in the engine...
I have purchased the plug from my Volvo dealer Oh yeh they do have one !
I drilled a hole in the fitted plug...put in a screwdriver...and pulled it out...
I coated a thin coat of aluminium gasket silicone on the new plug...located it in the hole and used a hammer to fully insert it in the cylinder head like it was before...
Btw I have pulled out the exhaust manifold...can I reuse the same gaskets or I have to find some new ones ?

A small question out of topic : how can I identify an engine block in a yard (B19,B21,B23,B200,B230) ? Which engine is a direct swap from the B19E without changing the injection loom ?

Thanks in advance for your help
David.

dfeghali wrote:Thanks a lot "Ride_on" for your reply
It seems that this plug is designed to pull out of the cylinder head if the water freezes in the engine...
I have purchased the plug from my Volvo dealer Oh yeh they do have one !
I drilled a hole in the fitted plug...put in a screwdriver...and pulled it out...
I coated a thin coat of aluminium gasket silicone on the new plug...located it in the hole and used a hammer to fully insert it in the cylinder head like it was before...
Btw I have pulled out the exhaust manifold...can I reuse the same gaskets or I have to find some new ones ?

A small question out of topic : how can I identify an engine block in a yard (B19,B21,B23,B200,B230) ? Which engine is a direct swap from the B19E without changing the injection loom ?

Thanks in advance for your help
David.

Get new gaskets and clean surfaces so there will be no leaks, hardly anything is more annoying than leak from exhaust manifold

I would of thought that you can swap any bottom of engine to any cylinder head, except 16 valve versions, but I'm not totally sure now how it is?

B19E has separate ignition module, no Renix/Bendix unit, but Bosch ignition module, if my memory does serve me correctly.

I think it is the best system, also B19 is much better than B200 how it revs, in my opinion.

You could swap any engine if you take distributor from current one, also engines from 200 series needs some changes so those are not direct swaps, but your motor has all parts that are needed to be swapped over, maybe water pump is something you need to get as B19 and B200 had some differences ?

So you need atleast oilpan, oilpump neck, waterpump from old engine, if you plan to use engine from 200 series.

With Bosch ignition all other engines should run somehow, you might not get best power, but ignition could be tuned by distributor if I'm not mistaken?

That Bosch ignition is best also because it is really easy to convert to use Megasquirt, then you could get any engine to run properly, don't know how available such is in there, though.

I must say that I don't know how to identify engine block that is on yard, there was probably not much of markings on block?

B19E has Hall-effect ignition system, located in the distributor.

if you want an engine swap; i'd atleast go for LH2.2 or LH2.4 injection system with B200 or B230 engine; bit more work but a lot more result in a smoother and if you want to, more economical engine.

volvodspec wrote:B19E has Hall-effect ignition system, located in the distributor.

if you want an engine swap; i'd atleast go for LH2.2 or LH2.4 injection system with B200 or B230 engine; bit more work but a lot more result in a smoother and if you want to, more economical engine.

Bosch distributor + Bosch ignition module in B19E that indeed works with Hall-effect, best there is, imo.

In my opinion putting LH there would be more effort than putting Megasquirt and with MS one gets a lot different animal

Huge amounts of low end torque with K-cam.

Thanks guys, I really appreciate your help

Problem solved...the engine is running again with new exhaust gaskets

Concerning the engine swap, I think that I will go fo an electronic fuel injected 2.3 litre HIGH compression engine without Turbo...which engine is the appropriate one to use (engine code/compression/bhp/torque) ?
On the other hand, I don't want to scrap my B19 into parts and use them for the engine swap because it is running good AND the 360 is my DAILY car...I want to fully prepare the B230 in my "garage" to the complete swap next summer...
According to you which are the parts that I have to purchase in addition to the B230 (flywheel,oil pump,oil can,distributor,water pump...what else ???) ?
Thanks a lot guys and sorry to bother you with this matter but my dad wants me to do a detailed list of the parts we need before the purchase of the engine...so we can fully prepare it for the swap without any problems.
David.

allready covered in plenty of topics here, try the search at the top right of the screen.

I didn't find the answer for the main question...I don't think someone has used a HIGH compression engine before...

"I will go fo an electronic fuel injected 2.3 litre HIGH compression engine without Turbo...which engine is the appropriate one to use (engine code/compression/bhp/torque) ?"

Thanks volvodspec

I don't think there is such?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Volvo_engines#SOHC

ET would be higher compression, but it is also turbo motor, was it with K-jetronic mechanical injection like E?

I would recommend to get 16 valve unit if possible, it is again more work, but it breathes much better and behaves generally better, B234 or B204, of course there is then more power too if that is the plan.

But that 16 valve motor is rare and also expensive, also quite few have done such modification, so there can be some problems not heard of before, so you need to think if it is possible route.

FK, ET, FT are turbo models, FK is really low compression motor, 0.2bar or something like that, you can see it is turbo when looking motor, but I doubt it feels when driving.

Can't rememeber that page which listed hp and torque of each motor, but there are no huge differences among non turbo B230.

Don't know if that helps anything.

Excellent idea mate...thanks a lot jtbo for your help...I really appreciated
Before I go for the B234, I have some questions that have been already answered in other topics for the B230 Engines but here I believe that it is different for the B234...

1- Can my B19E oil sump fit the B234 ?
2- Do my B19E engine mounts fit the B234 ?
3- Do the distributor of the B234 will fit on the 360 or it will not because of the air ventilation box (instead can I use the B19E distributor ?)
4- Does the holes for the clutch are the same as B19E ?
5- Which injection system did they use in such engines ?
6- Is there anyone in the forum that did such modification ?

Any other things to worry about ?

N.B. My Car is LHD...Is that a problem ?

Waiting for your reply...
Cheers ,

David

Well, SJS has made such and bit more, but he is not around here anymore, I guess. Anyway some pics here:
http://media.photobucket.com/image/340d ... 86.jpg?o=2

Motor he did use was Volvo Penta unit, 2.5l motor 16 valves, AQ151, AQ 171 or something like that, he used Megasquirt to control ignition (coil on plug) and fuel injection.

Of course it is easier to get B234 under the bonnet, but still it requires more work and I can't quite remember all of it, but I think sump fits, might need slight modification but such is probably not problem, however I'm not sure how that external oil pump fits into picture here, that might or might not cause some work.

Then you can move distributor from rear of cylinder head to cylinder block, like it is in 360, but sometimes you need to replace that intermediate shaft as some of those don't have gearing for distributor, but it should be possible to replace it from other motor which has one.

740&940 injection, now was it Jetronic or do I remember wrong?

Loom, ecu, sensors etc. needed, also air mass meter or whatever it uses.

Ignition needs bit of thinking, I don't know Jetronic, what kind of distributor it uses, would distributor from B200K work?
Ignition map is so much different in 16 valve motor that either programmable ignition or then original computer ignition from 16 valve motor is needed, also there might be need to do some work for ignition signal pickup, what Jetronic uses, not renix wheel?

I have no all the answers for this, but maybe some of this information helps you find answers, try find out how 740 16 valve Jetronic works, that helps a lot when thinking what you will need.

Great info jtbo !
I am now searching for all the possibilities to do this swap correctly and whithout any problem. So I want to prepare everything (buy the engine and all other stuff needed ...) before next summer to be able to finish it at the end of the summer...
Electronics is not a problem for me (fuel injection, ignition, ...) I just want to know which system is the best for this engine...
I am just worried about the mechanical fit of the engine...Clutch and engine mountings and distributor...

I really appreciate your concern about my project
Thanks a lot,
David