So, starting three weeks aho, my engine begun to run like crap. Meaning the idle would sit at 600 rpm, poor "take off" at the green light and so on. One night I found that all of my HT leads were glowing in the dark. Ok, out with the Bosch, in with the Beru. Today i have changed the spark plugs, fitting NGK`s. But my engine still runs like... It runs at it should be only in the first 5 minutes from the start (cold engine), and after that slowly it is starting again. It runs like an flooded carb engine (the feeling and the noise), if i remove the ht leads from the spark plugs, it`s dropping rpm (on all 4 cyl). This summer i know that i`ve checked the compression and it was good and equal, again on all 4 cyl. I have no cracks on air hoses, etc, the ignition coil is cold.
Not to forget: it runs the same on gas or lpg.
Help meeeeee

When was the last time the distributor cap and rotor were replaced?

Also worth giving the crank sensor a clean up.

Hi, the rotor arm was replaced two years ago, and the dizzy cap a month ago. I forgot to tell you that i have no missfires, i have no oil in coolant bottle.
I`ll have a look at the cranck sensor, i 100% believe that my problem is a electrical one. But why it runs perfect only when is cold, no shakes, no nothing and then it turns by 180 degrees?
Thanks.

Running well when cold indicates a weak mixture (1 stuck closed main injector), or possibly a leaky cold start injector causing rich running when warm.

Try swapping out the injectors or disconnecting the cold start injector when cold. OR hard wiring it on when warm.

This is an open loop system, the fuel system assumes the injectors are working correctly.

Sorted! Done !
Once again, my car proved me that I`m stupid. Why? Well, about a month ago I`ve tried to start the engine in a cold morning directly on lpg. Cold engine, moisture in air-> missfire in the intake -> blown airfilter and a big split on the plastic tube that connects the air filter casing and the maf. I didn`t realized that that was the moment from which my engine began to run bad. Of course I didn`t changed the cracked tube immediately, I went "I`ll change it tomorrow".
So, yesterday I did a check to the ignition sensor, put another coil and nothing. But the I got strucked by a upper force and I removed the tiny piece of tube which remined connected to the maf, and I stuck ONE FINGER (haha) inside the maf (lucky me that the engine was running). And voila, it began to run as it shoul be. Why? Something with venture effect, the lpg mixer is mounted in front of maf and the gas coming out of it was going back and forward whitout that piping ( I believe there is a minimum length of pipe in order to run fine). I still don`t understand why it had the same effect on running on gas, but I just leave it, I`m too happy.
Once again, thank you for your help.
Alex.

Same engine, different problem.
Yesterday on my way back home I started to hear this sound from my engine View My Video . I don't know even how to describe it, something like cracking inside the engine. I think you can hear it in this video clearly. Engine starts normally cold or warm, acceleration is the same, but now I am a little bit scared so I am driving it gently. Coolant and oil level is normal. What I really know that oil is leaking a little bit from the engine oil seals.
Any ideas or advices ?

I would check your cam belt.Through laptop speakers it sounds like the cam belt flapping around and shredding.