Removal of sump on a 1.7 in situ

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katana
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Removal of sump on a 1.7 in situ

Post by katana » 09 Sep 2005 10:43 pm

Is it easy to do or a right pain.

Haynes states it looks like a real pain. Having to lift the engine.

Any ideas how to do it?

Cheers

classicswede
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Post by classicswede » 09 Sep 2005 11:07 pm

Whey do you need to remove the sump?
I would not try and do it situ because 1 everything is dificult to get to and secondly it is sealed with sealant not a gasget. You would really struggle to get the surface clean enough to seal.
Engine out and back in in a day is easy. I took a 2ltr out a 460 and removed my 1.7 then swapped all parts over and refitted in a wwekend.

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huskyracer
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Post by huskyracer » 11 Sep 2005 10:44 am

I have tken the sump off mine in situ, but I wouldnt do it again, you either have to drop the crossmember and support the engine from above, or how I did it by lifting the engine up about 6 inches and working round the crossmember, but you have to have the belhousing off to get the engine this high, I did this as I thought the rear main oil seal was leaking, but it turned out to be the sealant between the rear main bearing cap and the block.
If I had to do this again, I would pull the engine out and do it in the comfort of the garage rather than spending all day under the car with oil and sh*t dripping on me, its not nice

classicswede
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Post by classicswede » 11 Sep 2005 01:50 pm

As I said before take the engine out. Let us know how you get on or if you need any advice on how to remove the engine.

Dai
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katana
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Post by katana » 12 Sep 2005 11:59 pm

Hello

I wanted to change the big ends as it was getting a bit ratily.

Well after I removed the right hand engine mount while the engine was raised. and undid the rack and moved it by jacking up the bell housing. Took sat and finished sunday as it rained heavily.

Easy really and no real hassle. Hylomared the sump back on after cleaning the surfaces. My sump had a chanel to fill and cleaned the block wioth a plastic scourer. Cleans and doesn't damage the metal.

Next time any one want a hand to do it? Easy IMO

classicswede
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Post by classicswede » 13 Sep 2005 09:53 pm

Glad it hear you got it sorted.

The reason I would take the engine out is it only takes 1-2 hours to remove and that makes things easy to see and get at.

Well by the sounds of it you had no probs and it should be easy for other ppl to do.

Less rattling now?

Dai
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huskyracer
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Post by huskyracer » 14 Sep 2005 06:44 pm

Next time mine leaks, I know who I'm calling!

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