Damp start problems

Post by **SoLaMaNdA** » 26 Dec 2005 12:39 pm

The 360 has had some damp starting issues (but been too ill to spend time to fix it). Just wanted to pick the brains of those who have had the same problem. The car usually sits for a week not being used, sometimes more. When starting the car usually with some effort turns a couple times and dies. Eventually it does start but with alot of persuasion.

I'm guessing it’s the distributor cap and the original leads causing trouble. Probably will give the cap a clean and then replace parts till it works better. Anything else I should check? Starting once used (say after 8-10hrs for return journey) there is no problem and it always started first time in the summer.

Also one more question, I’ve not bothered to look in the Haynes manual yet but will the plugs out my old 360 (fairly sure it was a B200) work in the new car (probably a B19). I kept the month old plugs when the old car was scrapped

Thanks

Post by **Chris_C** » 26 Dec 2005 01:38 pm

I've never had any joy cleaning caps, they bugger up again withing 500 miles. Is it turning, firing, but not enough fuel being pulled through? That happened to Fake, fuel line had gone rotton.

Otherwise sounds like your on the right lines, cap and arm should be about £15 from dealer (at least, a B14 is) and leads might be worth changing anyway. Are the plugs clean?

Post by **SoLaMaNdA** » 26 Dec 2005 01:45 pm

I'll have a look at the fuel lines and try the other bits first. Won't bother with a new arm unless it looks worn, (its barely had any use at all!). Not looked at the plugs in this car yet. All was working fine so appled the KISS approach (otherwise known as lazyness)

Post by **5lab** » 26 Dec 2005 05:45 pm

could simply be a simtom of evaporated fuel from the carb (which will take a load of cranks to fill up agian fully, if you've left it a while) and winter simply being harder for an engine to start in..

Post by **foggyjames** » 27 Dec 2005 02:35 am

My car does that if you leave it...nothing nothing nothing, BAM, starts right up. That wouldn't explain it being reluctant once it has started. Of course it can be jittery about running if you panic and fluff up the choke settings because it's been slow to start.

If it's specifically in damn conditions, it's almost certainly ignition system related. Cap, arm, leads, plugs...check them all.

Mine needed a new cap (I did the arm too, but I'm sure it was the cap which fixed it) last winter, and it manifested itself as both slow starting, and a lack of 'guts' on pulling away when cold. Wierdly, it wouldn't mess up at all once warm, not even at high rpm (usually a good test for weak spark).

cheers

James

Post by **classicswede** » 27 Dec 2005 01:11 pm

TBH cap rotor leads and plugs should all be done at the same time. It is silly not to for the little they cost.
The other thing with starting down draught carbs is to pump the throttle before starting. Twice in summer three time in winter. This dumps a bit of fuel down and aids starting. Side draught dont need it.

Post by **SoLaMaNdA** » 27 Dec 2005 02:08 pm

Which type carb would it be on a B19?

Post by **foggyjames** » 27 Dec 2005 03:20 pm

Sidedraft. It's as simple as it sounds...which way does the air flow through it?...you can see it!

cheers

James

Post by **SoLaMaNdA** » 27 Dec 2005 06:41 pm

Looks like its a sidedraft carb. Cheers

Post by **classicswede** » 27 Dec 2005 06:46 pm

Yep it is.

Post by **pettaw** » 28 Dec 2005 08:27 pm

classicswede wrote:TBH cap rotor leads and plugs should all be done at the same time. It is silly not to for the little they cost.
The other thing with starting down draught carbs is to pump the throttle before starting. Twice in summer three time in winter. This dumps a bit of fuel down and aids starting. Side draught dont need it.

Agree on the leads and rotor thing but I wouldn't say pumping the pedal is necessary. We've never had trouble starting our cars even in sub-zero with just full choke. If its adjusted correctly it sets the mixture and throttle for you and all you have to do is once running, gently push the choke in to achieve a smooth tickover.

Post by **classicswede** » 29 Dec 2005 12:33 pm

The pumping the throttle is some thing I have lernt for the likes of the amazon and saab 96 (v4). They can be a bit of a bugger to start when cold. This is the sure fire way to get em going.

You should not need to do this if everything is set up spot on.

Post by **SoLaMaNdA** » 29 Dec 2005 12:59 pm

Should be interesting when I next start it, having been ill the car has not moved for a month. What are the chances the slightly dodgy battery is dead too

Post by **Cornholio** » 29 Dec 2005 01:03 pm

SoLaMaNdA wrote:What are the chances the slightly dodgy battery is dead too

Oooh yes. Especially with this cold weather - brrrrrr.

Post by **340GLT** » 29 Dec 2005 11:14 pm

A good tip to start the car with a flatish battery in the cold is to pour a kettle of nearly boiling water over it!!! Batteries prefer heat to cold!! Work much better. That why some modern cars batteries come fitted with jackets!!!! lol
Cheers Adam