B14, B172, B19/200, D16 engine, ignition, cooling, fuel & exhaust system, gearbox, variomatic, final drive... | Tuning: engine swaps, welded diff, clutch upgrades...
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voly340
- Posts: 33
- Joined: 01 Jul 2007 12:31 pm
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by voly340 » 04 Jul 2007 04:47 pm
ive got a 1.7 and trying to going round or coming out of corners hard the whole engine just bogs down and dies, then willl slowly pick up again by the time im out of the corner. ive replaced to dizzy cap as it was a bit worn, but it still does it, stripped the carb and that looks fine. the spark plugs look alright aswell. thought it could possibly be the choke sticking aswell, but it isnt.
i have no idea what would be wrong. any ideas or help?
Thanks

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Chris_C
- *** V3M DONOR ***
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- Location: South Coast, UK
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by Chris_C » 04 Jul 2007 07:30 pm
MJ is right, mine does it at the mo, and you can smell the extra petrol when it bogs.
However, I have no idea how the floats on mine wandered over 6 months or so.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
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Chris_C
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 9600
- Joined: 18 Jun 2004 11:53 pm
- Location: South Coast, UK
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by Chris_C » 04 Jul 2007 07:33 pm
Oh, add to that if you read those threads... check whether the ball bearing should be compressed or not, it's the opposite of what I thought it was when I set it!
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
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voly340
- Posts: 33
- Joined: 01 Jul 2007 12:31 pm
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by voly340 » 05 Jul 2007 12:58 pm
cheers for the replys. good to see its a comon problem in a way. should have really done a search before i posted a new topic, ah well

ill take the carb off tonight and have a look
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Chris_C
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 9600
- Joined: 18 Jun 2004 11:53 pm
- Location: South Coast, UK
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by Chris_C » 09 Jul 2007 01:17 pm
Me and Andy sorted mine over the weekend... and she's sooo much smoother again. Not to mention I've gone from 25-30mpg to around 45... with me "testing" that is doesn't bog a fair amount

'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
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voly340
- Posts: 33
- Joined: 01 Jul 2007 12:31 pm
Post
by voly340 » 09 Jul 2007 07:53 pm
ive reset the gap to 33.7mm, it was about 5mm :/. but now it will only tick over at around 3k and if you try to turn the idle screw down petrol starts pissing out of the round vacuum hole thats covered by the small bit of black rubber so i dont know what to do. Just get a new carb?
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pettaw
- *** V3M DONOR ***
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- Location: London, UK
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by pettaw » 09 Jul 2007 08:09 pm
I think you've measured the wrong gap mate, the floats on their own are already well over 20mm. You need to measure from the base of the gasket to the TIP of the floats, not the bottom.
I can't really explain any better so you need to see a picture. See if there's a cheapy Haynes going on Ebay or something. Tbh even if you have to buy one at full prices its gonna save you a bundle in bills.
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Chris_C
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 9600
- Joined: 18 Jun 2004 11:53 pm
- Location: South Coast, UK
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by Chris_C » 09 Jul 2007 11:47 pm
I've just raided my baggy of spare bits, and hopefully this pic will be helpful. Imagine the laptop is the carb top plate (all out of solex top plates here!) and the red line should be the 33.7mm.

'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast