Heed Gasket

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filthyjohn
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Heed Gasket

Post by filthyjohn » 10 Feb 2008 11:11 pm

I'm pretty sure my head gasket is now goosed, oil in the water and water in the (brand new castrol) oil. Car was running hot, noticed the water was really low all of a sudden, topped it up and now it's all mixed together.
The car still starts and pulls just fine, if a little smokey, but sounds a bit rattly too.
What I need to know is how long have I got til it's knackered? I need the car til the weekend and don't want to attempt the job in an evening in case something unforseen happens as I'll have no taxed backup car to get to work. Are HGs still available from the dealers? And are there any 340 specific pitfalls to watch out for when doing the job?
Engine is a B14 by the way, with 150k+ on it.

Cheers,
John.
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macplaxton
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Post by macplaxton » 11 Feb 2008 10:58 am

Remove head with a sideways twist rather than a pull up as it's less likely to disturb the liners.

Don't turn the engine after you've removed the head for the same reason, unless you use special tools 5803 (deluxe washer and bolt kit :D) to stop the liners moving up.

You'll probably have to get an engineering shop involved if the head needs skimming.

If you want a good quality gasket set get a Victor Reinz one, they made the Volvo gaskets (in my pack) anyway and are known to be "the daddy" for HGs.

Check your HG set. I didn't have a water pump housing to head one in either.

If you have an unco-operative dealer find a co-operative Renault one!

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Chris_C
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Post by Chris_C » 11 Feb 2008 11:13 am

It'll take you a while mate, manifolds off kinda job. Me and Andy managed mine in a day, but it was a rush, and I had to get the car back to Southampton.

As above, leave in one of the centre bolts, and rubber mallet the head about the bolt. We just used some BIG penny washers and bolts, but thats because I had a very good supply of bolts, and could get those required very easy. Before you do it, look in the green books, they explain it really really well.
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Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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Post by macplaxton » 11 Feb 2008 11:30 am

Looking at the cylinder head I have on the table, I think the middle one furthest from the manifold side is the dowelled one.

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Chris_C
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Post by Chris_C » 11 Feb 2008 12:32 pm

Grand stuff, I couldn't remember which it was!
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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Post by classicswede » 11 Feb 2008 02:06 pm

Its worth getting the head re surfaced just for peice of mind .
Dai

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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 11 Feb 2008 11:25 pm

I'll put money on it that your HG is gone. I've never done it, but my understanding is that if you can get the head to break off cleanly without disturbing the liners, you're 90% of the way past the tricky stuff.

cheers

James
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Post by filthyjohn » 12 Feb 2008 07:14 pm

Cheers fellas. A day might be too long for my impatience. I reckon I could swap the whole engine for one of my spares in about 3-4 hours so I may do that instead. It'd probably be fewer bolts that way anyhow.
'87 Nissan Sunny
'95 945 LPT
'90 340 3dr
'87 360 GLT
'87 765 TIC
'75 Manta A
'70 Rover P5 V8
'67 MGB GT
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Head

Post by workshopmanualman » 12 Feb 2008 07:23 pm

I'm incompetent as a mechanic, but with a friend who was a trained mechanic, with the right tools, we did a head on the 1.4 Renault unit in 3 hours - I did the work, he advised with lots of tuts! The engine proved to be in good condition though, so the gasket was all we did.


PIJ
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Post by petefarrell360 » 12 Feb 2008 08:32 pm

John,

Is this the blue 3 door? If so, it sounds like the previous owner was onto something, odd how all the signs went away though and nothing showed, and it was fine up until now. Either way, at least the most important part of the 300 is good, the body work! The nuts and bolts side of things and mechanics are a lot easier to rectify.

Pete
G reg 360 GLT, G reg 340 GL Variomatic, plus many more..........

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filthyjohn
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Post by filthyjohn » 13 Feb 2008 06:15 pm

Yeah Pete it's me lovely blue one. I'm still in love with the old girl, despite the current hiccups with break ins etc. There are a few bits of orange starting underneath thanks to the council salting the roads when it's 5 degrees above freezing, but nothing I can't catch and rectify.
The car's done over 150k so a little engine trouble is to be expected really. I think it's been using water for a while, it had been running hot in traffic but now I've changed the oil and topped up the water it's sweet again. In fact it's running better than ever. When this weather gets nicer it's time for some polybushes and a damn good undersealing.
'87 Nissan Sunny
'95 945 LPT
'90 340 3dr
'87 360 GLT
'87 765 TIC
'75 Manta A
'70 Rover P5 V8
'67 MGB GT
'62 amazon 2dr

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Post by sven360 » 13 Feb 2008 06:47 pm

Do the right thing John and buy a 3dr 360-I might know where there's one never raced or rallied either :shock: :wink:
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filthyjohn
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Post by filthyjohn » 15 Feb 2008 05:05 pm

The one you and Bill turned up in before?
'87 Nissan Sunny
'95 945 LPT
'90 340 3dr
'87 360 GLT
'87 765 TIC
'75 Manta A
'70 Rover P5 V8
'67 MGB GT
'62 amazon 2dr

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Post by sven360 » 21 Feb 2008 07:16 pm

Think that was B's gold one sm14
Keeper of The Knights' of Bushido-lest we forget

Write it in your heart.
Stand by the code and it will stand by you.

Ask no more and give no less than honesty,courage,loyalty,generosity and fairness.

The code of the West.

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filthyjohn
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Post by filthyjohn » 22 Feb 2008 03:35 am

Aye it was, D reg I believe. PM replied.
'87 Nissan Sunny
'95 945 LPT
'90 340 3dr
'87 360 GLT
'87 765 TIC
'75 Manta A
'70 Rover P5 V8
'67 MGB GT
'62 amazon 2dr

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