Ok 1.4 carb, in a 340 5 door, 1985, renix ignition.

runthorough of "how it runs" i suppose...

Start on cold morning, damn freezing, ice on windows....

Pull choke fully out, turn ignition on, turn key till engine fires, (usually on 4th revolution of engine, but it can kick up on the second if its not too cold), as engine runs too rich put choke to halfway... at this point engine will cut out if I don't give it a touch of gas to bring the idle up - after 15 second of high idle choke and accelerator can be released and the engine runs fairly smoothly, until warm when it runs sweet really.

Only thing wrong with half choke is theres no high idle to go with it - so driving out of parking spot requires the use of three pedals, or two pedals and the key... obviously a tad dangerous (I can heel and toe but not at 8am if I'm honest)

The last time I asked about this the only answer was "carb goosed, get new carb"... now I got 98 miles on £10 of petrol, I think this carb is tip top, just the choke is a bit off, and only a bit - an extra 50 RPM is all the engine needs on half choke - there must be something I can either adjust or tweak to do this.

Thats a pretty impressive fuel economy - i couldn't manage anything more than about 65 miles per £10 (at todays £1.20 / l) but my car usually suffered from some malady or other.

choke is quite easy to adjust with a wrench and a (possibly 8mm might be smaller) socket/spanner.

remove the air filter housing.

find the choke cable - its on the right hand side of the driving facing wall of the carb (where all the springs are). the cable runs through a bracket for tension (this might have fallen off) on the rocker cover then the outer sheath is secured through the carb and the inner metal cable goes through a locking nut and then just sticks out.

undo the nut where the cable runs through and pull (with wrench) or allow to slacken and re-tighten the nut. this will alter the amount the choke flap is moved using the choke knob. from memory you need to have 5.5mm clearance between the flap and the carb wall at full choke but finding a 5.5mm drill bit to easily do this or have enough hands is tricky. 5mm is probably ok.

full choke should be about 1800rpm when fully cold and have a noticable affect from the position the choke light comes on (few hundred revs maybe).

hope this helps

Hmmm, I reckon that sounds like a crack in your spaceman tubing between exhaust manifold and hot air intake and the actual flappy bit in the air intake will probably be siezed too.

Have a nosey at the spaceman at least, it's easy to see with the bonnet open.

Sounds like you need a tweaky on the fast idle cam on the choke. Have a look at the choke lever, after first taking off the air cleaner as the others have described. Move the choke on and off a few times, and you'll see where the throttle lever is being moved, there is a screw that adjusts how close it is to the choke lever. Its got a locknut, so you'll need to unlock it, and I would say screw it in about half a turn, then re-lock and try again.

Found the adjuster, adjusted it, still need another go, I think the mechanism is worn, the idle does increase, just need to go another turn or two and all should be good.