Been looking at the subject of nuts n' bolts for some time now.
Gradually been looking at those that suffer in use and obtaining supplies (announcement soon).

Have NOT been able to aquire hub nuts nor caliper carrier bolts and have had look at having them made.

Are you sitting down children ?? The cheapest quote received :-

Hub nuts - £800.00 + vat. /100
caliper bolts £1330.00 + vat. /100

Even me in my daftest ain't going there !! - now looking at alternatives.

Mac.

Do Volvo not still have the hub nut? Did last time I enquired... 12ish months ago (probably more now thinking about it). I bought an arm full, they were £3.something each.

Caliper carriers, the ones that bolt the carrier to the hub, or the ones that bolt the carrier to the slide pins? (infact, scrub that, I think we've had this conversation before) What's complicated about the ones to the hub?

You obviously didn't ask any Indians

I'll be back on the case proper when I've moved.

Hi Chris,

No, hub nuts are now NLA 15/16"AF Threaded 5/8" 18tpi. Deep stake nut.

Caliper to carrier bolts still available (gave you some at Beaulieu) but carrier to strut NLA.
M12 x 32 x 1.25 10.9 Serrated, flanged hex head.

Mac.

mac wrote:(gave you some at Beaulieu)

This is what made me realise! Minds not with it at the moment.

Something I've often thought with hub nuts is I would prefer castle nuts and a split pin on the hub. That way you can forever use the same nut, it's just a better engineering solution in my eyes. Obviously this will involve getting the hub stub axle drilled for said pin.

I don't know what you have in stock, but if you need a "pattern" new stake nut, ring/email me.

you can't use a castle nut for securing/tensioning wheel bearings Chris; you need to lock it when the bearing is properly set, not when you can get a securing pin through the hole

i'll see what my sources can dig up on the nuts/bolts, i've had both of them before and not from Volvo!

So how do all the cars that do use them work? I guess it could be selective shims maybe, or maybe just they are British Leyland cars and designed to have 22.5 degrees of angle tighten inaccuracy!

Chris_C wrote:So how do all the cars that do use them work? I guess it could be selective shims maybe, or maybe just they are British Leyland cars and designed to have 22.5 degrees of angle tighten inaccuracy!

They're not that sophisticated! I don't think the preload on the bearings (ie. nut tightness) is terribly important for taper roller bearings, they just need some to give the bearing enough stiffness but not too much that the wheel won't spin freely. SKF give typically vague advice on the matter, which from experience with them tends to mean it doesn't really matter that much!

Castellated nuts would be a nice but rather extravagant solution, however, I can't see anything wrong in using a Nyloc (if available) or threadlocking compound (so long as you cleaned the grease off everything before fitting) on it. The temperatures shouldn't get too hot as the bearing grease can't take them anyway, although positive mechanical retention is more reassuring!

Hi mac.
I have some of those nuts from the front struts of the LE if you get stuck.
Cheers Mark.

Any finds on the caliper/pad carrier-strut bolts? My originals are serviceable, but this may not always be the case.

Spec: M12 x 32 x 1.25p 10.9 flanged serrated hex head

I've explored many avenues including;

Other volvo items - seems they are using 1.5p (picture measuring on skandix)
8.8 grade non-flanged is available, but this is not sufficient
No flanged hex head 10.9 or 12.9 available

I think the wide head maybe needed to unload the stress on the cast strut at the corner of the hole, and the serrations for non-slip.

The only solution I see is a socket cap + thick washer (6mm thick) and maybe a Schnorr serrated washer between the head and thick washer.

How does that sound as an Engineering equivalent?

mac wrote:Hi Chris,

No, hub nuts are now NLA 15/16"AF Threaded 5/8" 18tpi. Deep stake nut.

Caliper to carrier bolts still available (gave you some at Beaulieu) but carrier to strut NLA.
M12 x 32 x 1.25 10.9 Serrated, flanged hex head.

Mac.

Isn't the hub M16x1.5?
What does NLA and AF stand for?

No longer available.... dunno about AF, sorry.

Google is our friend... Imperial AF (Across Flats)

http://www.baconsdozen.co.uk/tools/ImperialAF.htm

Chris_C wrote:
Something I've often thought with hub nuts is I would prefer castle nuts and a split pin on the hub. That way you can forever use the same nut, it's just a better engineering solution in my eyes. Obviously this will involve getting the hub stub axle drilled for said pin.

Thought this was a great idea to solve the issue but then thinking back to why the stake nut is used it will not work. A split pin through the speedo cable is not going to help it work