worst bit of volvo 300 design..

Post by **5lab** » 05 Jan 2005 07:41 pm

the spoilers really dont weigh that much compared to a tailgate - i've one under my bed. for DEKAY. that useless t**T

Post by **jtbo** » 05 Jan 2005 07:44 pm

SteveP wrote: Re: The rear window demister.. mine works perfectly.. it's quick to warm up and every element still works (That'll p*ss off foggy after his struggle )

Mine works too, but wiring was cut when I bought the car. I mean those two wires that are attached to window and they go to behind panels. Actually previous owner had tryed to repair them with tape

Post by **SteveP** » 05 Jan 2005 07:44 pm

hahaha... stick it on your GLE then instead

Post by **5lab** » 05 Jan 2005 07:50 pm

dont want one on there

Post by **Fuse** » 05 Jan 2005 08:49 pm

What comes to those 460Nm struts for tailgate equipped with spoiler you can also get them elsewhere than Volvo dealer. At least in here local car parts store called Motonet sells them. Just bought two because old ones didn't held the tailgate up.

Post by **jtbo** » 05 Jan 2005 08:53 pm

When it is cold weather it is important not to force tailgate up, open it very gently, forcing it open wears struts out, also can broke them.

One trick with struts is to bend them with force, cheap and quick solution, but not very elegant

Post by **Tom** » 05 Jan 2005 10:07 pm

Hugh: did the heated seats work in Nessy?

Post by **5lab** » 06 Jan 2005 12:08 am

Post by **Tom** » 06 Jan 2005 12:21 am

5lab, like a liar, wrote:i've never had any of those problems tom..

There you are y'see!

Post by **5lab** » 06 Jan 2005 12:40 am

yeah but i've got a multimeter and a spare set of seats. with that sh*t i can fix anything

Post by **Tom** » 06 Jan 2005 12:50 am

Smartarse.

Post by **foggyjames** » 06 Jan 2005 03:12 am

SteveP wrote:Re: The rear window demister.. mine works perfectly.. it's quick to warm up and every element still works (That'll p*ss off foggy after his struggle )

Yes....it bloody well will!

I've now found out I have two problems - the demister elements are all dead bar two, but now there isn't even any power getting to the wires. I discovered the other day that it makes it out of the switch ok....but didn't get any further than that, as it was cold and dark!

cheers

James

Post by **redline** » 06 Jan 2005 10:29 am

I guess I must be really lucky ,My rear demister works perfectly even though the wires have been bodge repaired at the top of the hatch,I dont know if the heated seats work but am not really bothered, the only rust I have is a small bit of surface rust on the rear passenger side door (bottom of window ) and a little hole on the panel where the bonnet hinges . All my dash lights work ( including glovebox and ashtray ) except the ciggy lighter one (if it has one ) and the light switch (again if it has one, do's it ? ) The biggest failing on mine are the tailgate struts are just beginning to soften and the central locking dosn't always work ( but if you turn the key backwards and forwards a few times it will )

Post by **foggyjames** » 06 Jan 2005 06:36 pm

The cigar lighter (this is an upmarket car!) and headlight switch do indeed have bulbs - but the cigar lighter one is incredibly dim, even with a brand new bulb.

Central locking failure is a common one - mine is starting to fail. It's the rear doors that go (another reason why 3 doors are best!)....the replacement / repaired motors will be going in plastic bags for added waterproofing!

cheers

James

Post by **pettaw** » 06 Jan 2005 08:03 pm

Tom wrote:- The B14 is a bit of a bitch to start, particularly on cold mornings or if it's been stood for a few hours (even with choke)

- The bloody covers for the stock speakers keep falling off!

- Some of the electrics are bollocks (heated seats, tempramental foglight)

- Rubbish rear demister, it's too weak! Just cleaning the window knackers it.

That's all. I could mention a thousand good points.

Definitely the speaker covers. My mum's novel cure: UHU!!

The engine shouldn't be difficult to start on cold. Ours used to be a bit funny, because it would fire up nicely then die straight away even if you fiddled with the choke. I cured this by setting up the choke assembly to factory spec using my green book, juducious bending of the rods etc restored it nicely.

Now it has a brand new carb that there is another knack using. You have to let it fire up then straight away sloowly push the choke in to get it smooth. I know that the pneumatic choke setting doesn't open the choke quite enough, but I can't be bothered to fix it.