worst bit of volvo 300 design..

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redline
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Post by redline » 21 Dec 2005 09:55 am

[quote="foggyjames"]Yes, welding is the way forward.cheers James/quote]

I still prefer my method , quick easy, cheap and the headrests dont have to be removed to fold the back rest

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I've never gad a problem with the rear parcel shelf
( mind you it has got 18mm of mdf supporting it LOL )
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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 21 Dec 2005 10:55 am

Stupid question Mick, but don't they end up too low and far back to support your head?

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
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'70 164
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redline
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Post by redline » 21 Dec 2005 01:58 pm

I just said.

quick easy, cheap and the headrests dont have to be removed to fold the back rest :oops: in a purely cosmetic sort of way :oops: lol

i didnt say they worked as proper headrests ,however they can be raised and lowered , they are just a bit further back than they ideally should be
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Andy's-Old-Beast
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Post by Andy's-Old-Beast » 23 Dec 2005 02:15 pm

foggyjames wrote: Are you sure your headlights are in good shape? I think 17 year old reflectors probably don't help matters :( Did I mention that I have a new pair for sale? sm56
Yeah, fair comment. If I'm honest a small stone chip in the rhs light seems to have let in enough moisture to rust the reflector very slightly. I'm sure that doesn't help, maybe I was being a little hard on the old beast... :(

Do you happen to know if there's an easy way of changing the reflector? The haynes book reckons the whole light has to come out, which if I remember rightly involves taking the fron bumper off, and other such tomfoolery.

Cheers matey
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Post by Andy's-Old-Beast » 23 Dec 2005 02:22 pm

SteveP wrote:I'd rather not have the boot working on central locking. It means that your kit in the boot is usually locked - meaning that no-one can come and swipe it out of your boot in traffic!
Good point, hadn't really thought about that! I don't do much in-town driving, but it could be a danger. Yeah, maybe a boot release button inside the car is the answer. My old montego had a pull cable which would open it from next to the driver's seat. The boot was locked the rest of the time.

Sorry I've been a while replying, by the way folks. I'm away from home for a while so internet access and free time are a little limited!

Cheers all.
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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 23 Dec 2005 03:03 pm

Hi Andy,

You *can* do it without removing the bumper, but it's a PITA getting to all the clips, and you'll never get them back on again. Remove the bumper (wipers, then four bolts, then the side repeaters....dead easy), and you have full access. I don't remember having to remove the lights to change remove the reflectors, but it might make life easier. Only 4 screws IIRC.

Gimme a shout if you want those reflectors.

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...

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SteveP
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Post by SteveP » 23 Dec 2005 03:39 pm

I've just this minute come back from removing the headlights from my black car - I wouldn't bother attempting it without taking the bumper off, it's easy anyway 4 bolts and it'll all slide forward...

However, I need some new reflectors too now - d'oh!
1989 - Volvo 360 GLT
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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 23 Dec 2005 04:43 pm

Hate to do this to you Andy, but Steve has confirmed he definitely wants the reflectors over MSN, so they're taken. I do have a brand new complete headlight here though...:D

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...

classicswede
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Post by classicswede » 23 Dec 2005 04:44 pm

As Steve said take the bumper off. If you've ssen Aki's car some wally drilled the bumper to get to the screws.
The bumper normaly comes off dead easy
Dai

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petefarrell360
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Post by petefarrell360 » 23 Dec 2005 11:09 pm

LOL, that's a new one, drill the bumper to get to the screws! I have managed to change a light lense without removing the bumper. It was the night before the MOT, and I'd only owned the car a year, bought it with a cracked lense and never got around to sorting it, then suddenly remembered. I have very limited tools with me, but I did have a spare lense. So I just about managed to remove all the springy clips, new lense on, getting the clips back on was somewhat harder, but achieveable, as there is a bit of give in the bumper. However removing the bumper isn't difficult, if you have the tools available, and makes it a lot easier. Just be careful to get a good screwdriver that fits well to remove the headlight screws, as they are often a little corroded and are normally rounded off if anyone has previously had a go at the job!
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Andy's-Old-Beast
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Post by Andy's-Old-Beast » 24 Dec 2005 01:01 pm

Excellent, thanks for all your advice, friends. I'll give it a go when I get the chance. I never tried to get the bumper off before, the book makes it look a bit messy, but if you all reckon it's easy, I'll give it a go.

Don't worry about the reflectors james, fair's fair, he got there first! I might take you up on that headlight though, I'll let you know when I have time to do the job.

Thanks again for everyone's help! :D
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SteveP
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Post by SteveP » 24 Dec 2005 01:47 pm

The top headlight screw accessible from behind with the bonnet open (one with an earthing strap) can be a bit of a pain. I used a ratchet and a socket which allowed the use of screwdriver bits to remove them. Theres no room for a long screwdriver and can't get enough torque on a short one!

I'm planning on re-newing my headlights because I'd quite like the abillity to see where I'm going at night (and full beam aint the problem), so I'll post any other tips when the time comes!
1989 - Volvo 360 GLT
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classicswede
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Post by classicswede » 24 Dec 2005 11:59 pm

Steve you were doing it wrong. What you need to do is just pop the bonnet so the front is up then you can use a long screw driver.
Dai

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SteveP
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Post by SteveP » 25 Dec 2005 12:25 am

Do you mean with the bonnet just relesed and and still flat on the car? I think we might be thinking of a different screw. I'm talking about the screw thats only accessible with the bonnet open and lifted, where the head of the screw is facing the opposite direction to the rest of 'em.
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classicswede
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Post by classicswede » 26 Dec 2005 07:42 pm

From what I remember there are two srews on top that can be accessed with the bonnet popped open and the two at the bottom behind the bumper. I'm going to have to look now to settle my mind! :?
Dai

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