And if you are going to do something stupid, wait until there's nobody else around! (IE Monday nights at 12am)my first car* 1.4 1990 340 Carburettor Help Please!
Re: my first car* 1.4 1990 340 Driving test haha
Great news! I was an idiot when I'd just passed, thought I was the best driver in the world etc because I'd raced cars since age 14. I'd recommend you don't do anything stupid for the first few months at least, get a feel for the car first and you'll get to know how fast you can take corners and roundabouts safetly. I was lucky to not have an accident and have such a forgiving FWD piece of modern crap. A 340 will not forgive you And if you are going to do something stupid, wait until there's nobody else around! (IE Monday nights at 12am)
And if you are going to do something stupid, wait until there's nobody else around! (IE Monday nights at 12am)
Re: my first car* 1.4 1990 340 Driving test haha
thanks everyone 
just drove it today through some country roads... dont get me wrong its not the fastest thing in the world but its pretty quick concidering how big the thing is will need to sort out the body roll with some landy shock out back and thicker oil in the front because its bloody scary taking a bend and the whole thing sort of leans away from it then eventually decides to follow 
but 1.4s R GR8 4 DRIFTIN!!! had a few cheeky goes in the school's weird car park which has alot of nice bends slides no problem in the dry
still thinking about different lowering options with this car
maybe drop the front struts through the hub while i change the oil or something and go for 2 inches or so - depending if the wheel allows it!
just drove it today through some country roads... dont get me wrong its not the fastest thing in the world but its pretty quick concidering how big the thing is will need to sort out the body roll with some landy shock out back and thicker oil in the front because its bloody scary taking a bend and the whole thing sort of leans away from it then eventually decides to follow but 1.4s R GR8 4 DRIFTIN!!! had a few cheeky goes in the school's weird car park which has alot of nice bends
slides no problem in the drystill thinking about different lowering options with this car
maybe drop the front struts through the hub while i change the oil or something and go for 2 inches or so - depending if the wheel allows it!
Re: my first car* 1.4 1990 340 Driving test haha
On other hand, lot of body roll will teach you lot more about weight transfer and smoothness than stiff suspension.
When I got my license it took almost a year until I had chance to drive a car, I did drove company car, doing delivery in company around the country, I was not too much into cars back then really, I had lot more interest when younger and older but at that time computers were my primary interest, so I drove like grandpa and just enjoyed the ride, well don't know how much you can enjoy in small Ford STW, or in old Toyota van that did smell like there would been body under the seats.
Starting that way I managed however to learn few important things, on public road it is not about how well one can control the car that is going to be good driver, but one that can predict situations before they happen and being prepared to unexpected. As I have driven over million miles now, it is still area of learning, there is new situations and those always increase experience, Presuming something is very dangerous, on road you can't really presume anything if you are going to avoid crashing, there are just things that are less likely and more likely, you can estimate, but in every crash someone has presumed something, so that is one thing to avoid.
Also on road it is good to leave bit more of margin that you think is enough, that is because, there is always someone or something that will do the unexpected.
Most important thing, when driving emotions are bad, simply put if one is going to avoid crashing first thing is to put all emotions to check, it is no different from drinking and driving if you let emotions control what you do. Only on closed area driving under influence is possible, let influence be emotion or alcohol, so many crashes happens when people do actions that would never be justified with rational thinking, so that you know it is very dangerous.
Might sound stupid, but when seeing enough road this all just will make sense.
Having fun is no excuse to slide over elder people on b-road, just be careful there
Anti-roll bar is there to control rolling, so add one to rear and get stiffer to front, would be better than messing damping, imo. My yank tank would probably burn rubber if I would try, but it has basic motor in there, it would need forcing to make that happen and it would mean probably some damage, as I have quite bit of mechanical sympathy, I will probably never do such thing, I would also think that making 1.4 to drift is bit same, it really has no power to do it properly, it perhaps can do some when forced, but I really don't see the point, it is more trashing than really drifting as in drifting throttle control is quite important thing and only way I can think 1.4 drifting is taking enough speed and jerking it sideways, keeping throttle floored, that is unless tires are plastic and tarmac is more slippery than here
When I got my license it took almost a year until I had chance to drive a car, I did drove company car, doing delivery in company around the country, I was not too much into cars back then really, I had lot more interest when younger and older but at that time computers were my primary interest, so I drove like grandpa and just enjoyed the ride, well don't know how much you can enjoy in small Ford STW, or in old Toyota van that did smell like there would been body under the seats.
Starting that way I managed however to learn few important things, on public road it is not about how well one can control the car that is going to be good driver, but one that can predict situations before they happen and being prepared to unexpected. As I have driven over million miles now, it is still area of learning, there is new situations and those always increase experience, Presuming something is very dangerous, on road you can't really presume anything if you are going to avoid crashing, there are just things that are less likely and more likely, you can estimate, but in every crash someone has presumed something, so that is one thing to avoid.
Also on road it is good to leave bit more of margin that you think is enough, that is because, there is always someone or something that will do the unexpected.
Most important thing, when driving emotions are bad, simply put if one is going to avoid crashing first thing is to put all emotions to check, it is no different from drinking and driving if you let emotions control what you do. Only on closed area driving under influence is possible, let influence be emotion or alcohol, so many crashes happens when people do actions that would never be justified with rational thinking, so that you know it is very dangerous.
Might sound stupid, but when seeing enough road this all just will make sense.
Having fun is no excuse to slide over elder people on b-road, just be careful there
Anti-roll bar is there to control rolling, so add one to rear and get stiffer to front, would be better than messing damping, imo. My yank tank would probably burn rubber if I would try, but it has basic motor in there, it would need forcing to make that happen and it would mean probably some damage, as I have quite bit of mechanical sympathy, I will probably never do such thing, I would also think that making 1.4 to drift is bit same, it really has no power to do it properly, it perhaps can do some when forced, but I really don't see the point, it is more trashing than really drifting as in drifting throttle control is quite important thing and only way I can think 1.4 drifting is taking enough speed and jerking it sideways, keeping throttle floored, that is unless tires are plastic and tarmac is more slippery than here
Volvo 360GL -88 -under restoration-
Volvo 343DL vario -81 -running-
Volvo 240 Diesel -83 -undecided-
Citroen ZX Dturbo -97 -daily-
Volvo 343DL vario -81 -running-
Volvo 240 Diesel -83 -undecided-
Citroen ZX Dturbo -97 -daily-
Re: my first car* 1.4 1990 340 Driving test haha
Well done on passing your test but this is where the learning begins.
I know that the general census of opinion on here is to lower the suspension, weld the diff and fit a bigger engine but don't forget that you need to report any modifications to your insurance company or you face the risk of not being insured in the event of needing to make a claim.
A standard 340 handles perfectly well under normal driving conditions and there is absolutely no need to think about modifications until you've got some experience under your belt - don't forget that if you get six points on your licence within two years of passing your test then you revert to provisional licence status.
Some people on here may regard me as an ex-cop with a small d**k but I have seen first hand the effects of having to scrape the remains of a young driver off the carriageway simply because he couldn't resist racing a Golf GTi when his pregnant girlfriend had merely asked him to fetch a Happy Meal for their four year old son.
Not much happiness there then........
I know that the general census of opinion on here is to lower the suspension, weld the diff and fit a bigger engine but don't forget that you need to report any modifications to your insurance company or you face the risk of not being insured in the event of needing to make a claim.
A standard 340 handles perfectly well under normal driving conditions and there is absolutely no need to think about modifications until you've got some experience under your belt - don't forget that if you get six points on your licence within two years of passing your test then you revert to provisional licence status.
Some people on here may regard me as an ex-cop with a small d**k but I have seen first hand the effects of having to scrape the remains of a young driver off the carriageway simply because he couldn't resist racing a Golf GTi when his pregnant girlfriend had merely asked him to fetch a Happy Meal for their four year old son.
Not much happiness there then........
Ian
No Volvo 340 at present.
No Volvo 340 at present.
Re: my first car* 1.4 1990 340 exhaust repairs
thanks for the all the replies,
ian you mentioned insurance - luckaly footman james are cool with modifications and simply add £50 to my excess, which is mega cheap considering the average company just laughs down the phone and tells you to bugger off (main reason of why many modifications aren't mentioned to the insurance with young drivers and modern cars imo)
yeah it wasnt "proper" drifting jtbo, it was more of a thrashing, but it wasn't at stupid RPMs so should be ok-ish if done on a rare basis. how hard is it to fit anti-roll bar on the back? anyone done this?
its very easy to obey the speed limits in this car too!! it makes too much of a racket when trying to do anything "exciting" - i figured out the cause of this once it completely broke. the pipe joining the catalytic converter to the manifold was rusted and was blowing some what, yesterday the whole thing decided to fall off. i have never been more embarrased driving home through town doing 20mph in 4th just to keep the noise minimal and still getting the "you chavvy c*nt, put your exhaust back on" look will be going to metal sscrap yard in an hour or so to try find some pipe to sort the problem and while im at it get rid of the cat converter aswell.
some pics of exhaust repair will be provided at the end of the day
ian you mentioned insurance - luckaly footman james are cool with modifications and simply add £50 to my excess, which is mega cheap considering the average company just laughs down the phone and tells you to bugger off (main reason of why many modifications aren't mentioned to the insurance with young drivers and modern cars imo)
yeah it wasnt "proper" drifting jtbo, it was more of a thrashing, but it wasn't at stupid RPMs so should be ok-ish if done on a rare basis. how hard is it to fit anti-roll bar on the back? anyone done this?
its very easy to obey the speed limits in this car too!! it makes too much of a racket when trying to do anything "exciting" - i figured out the cause of this once it completely broke. the pipe joining the catalytic converter to the manifold was rusted and was blowing some what, yesterday the whole thing decided to fall off. i have never been more embarrased driving home through town doing 20mph in 4th just to keep the noise minimal and still getting the "you chavvy c*nt, put your exhaust back on" look
will be going to metal sscrap yard in an hour or so to try find some pipe to sort the problem and while im at it get rid of the cat converter aswell.some pics of exhaust repair will be provided at the end of the day
Re: my first car* 1.4 1990 340 exhaust repairs
ARB installation depends from what kind you will find, but it should not be too difficult, you just need to get it bolted to body and attach to rear axle, some enough strong metal clips should do the job for the axle, to body you will probably need to drill hole or few to get it attached with bolts or some other way, depends a bit from which kind of ARB you can find.
Modding springs and fitting dampers with new oil is harder, imo.
There has been photos of rallycross 340 or 360 here, there also has been rear ARB, also 363cs had one I think and there is somewhere here post with photos from that car too, so those should give you ideas.
I don't know why it has not been more populat mod as ARB is not ecpensive part and it really should not be too difficult mod to do, maybe it is that effect of ARB is not too well understood or something else?
Anyway adding one to rear will reduce rolling, but side effect of that is that inside wheel is getting bit less traction, however this is compensated somewhat with reduced rolling. Also it should reduce understeering, so stiffer front ARB might be needed to compensate that, Whiteline was company that used to sell those, but I have seen on some cars 2nd ARB being attached to original one as a dirty hack to make ARB effect stronger, don't know how good is such and if it is even possible to do in 360.
As every part has it's function in suspension, it would be best to change part that controls such motion. Thicker oil to dampers would then be needed if you increase spring rate, otherwise you can end up with overdamped suspension that is really bad, but as well is underdamped suspension too, which happens if you increase spring stiffness (ie cutting springs, adding 2nd leaf) but not changing dampers. Underdamped is like kangaroo jumping around, when overdamped will send lot of bump to car body and tire will not be able to stay on road, there is then sweetspot that is called critical damping and something around there will be working quite well. Then there is also car weight and available suspension travel that affect what kind of spring rate you must go as general idea is to avoid hitting bump stops at all situations, so when spring rate is decided (travel, car weight, personal preference affecting that) then dampers are made to match to unsprung weight, springs and personal preference, aim is always to get near critical damping, however these are bit difficult to work out in home garage as you would need to measure dampers, springs, some masses etc, so some trial and error with understanding of under and over damping would be needed, but dampers are just that, rolling is then ARB mission and those can be changed without any need to care about over or under damping, too much ARB and car will simply break off traction too easily, too little and car will just roll too much, more ARB front is more understeer and more ARB rear is more oversteer, then there are few things that need to be considered in practical world, but with those anyone can tune car to be drifter, all purpose daily/track/drift or whatever he likes.
Sure, slapping stiffer shocks can make car more controllable and driftable, but it will have severe drawbacks and I can't say it would be very good way to do things especially when car is also a daily ride.
You can read some stuff here too:
https://nrich.maths.org/discus/messages ... 1050348163
Building greatly handling vehicle is bit of art really, there has to be balance between all aspects and change somewhere will probably need some changes here and there, but getting it right will be something rather impressive
To get proper drifting, car would need lot more torque, something around 250 might start to be quite well, so car can keep it up as long as one wishes? With 180 I needed to start control my throttle usage on wet with 360, but no chance to loose traction at 2nd when it was dry, 1.4 has something like 120 of torque?
I have become old as I felt that 70kph was so loud in 360 that I could not bare to go faster, when I did one testdrive of it some time ago, too much tire/exhaust noise
Modding springs and fitting dampers with new oil is harder, imo.
There has been photos of rallycross 340 or 360 here, there also has been rear ARB, also 363cs had one I think and there is somewhere here post with photos from that car too, so those should give you ideas.
I don't know why it has not been more populat mod as ARB is not ecpensive part and it really should not be too difficult mod to do, maybe it is that effect of ARB is not too well understood or something else?
Anyway adding one to rear will reduce rolling, but side effect of that is that inside wheel is getting bit less traction, however this is compensated somewhat with reduced rolling. Also it should reduce understeering, so stiffer front ARB might be needed to compensate that, Whiteline was company that used to sell those, but I have seen on some cars 2nd ARB being attached to original one as a dirty hack to make ARB effect stronger, don't know how good is such and if it is even possible to do in 360.
As every part has it's function in suspension, it would be best to change part that controls such motion. Thicker oil to dampers would then be needed if you increase spring rate, otherwise you can end up with overdamped suspension that is really bad, but as well is underdamped suspension too, which happens if you increase spring stiffness (ie cutting springs, adding 2nd leaf) but not changing dampers. Underdamped is like kangaroo jumping around, when overdamped will send lot of bump to car body and tire will not be able to stay on road, there is then sweetspot that is called critical damping and something around there will be working quite well. Then there is also car weight and available suspension travel that affect what kind of spring rate you must go as general idea is to avoid hitting bump stops at all situations, so when spring rate is decided (travel, car weight, personal preference affecting that) then dampers are made to match to unsprung weight, springs and personal preference, aim is always to get near critical damping, however these are bit difficult to work out in home garage as you would need to measure dampers, springs, some masses etc, so some trial and error with understanding of under and over damping would be needed, but dampers are just that, rolling is then ARB mission and those can be changed without any need to care about over or under damping, too much ARB and car will simply break off traction too easily, too little and car will just roll too much, more ARB front is more understeer and more ARB rear is more oversteer, then there are few things that need to be considered in practical world, but with those anyone can tune car to be drifter, all purpose daily/track/drift or whatever he likes.
Sure, slapping stiffer shocks can make car more controllable and driftable, but it will have severe drawbacks and I can't say it would be very good way to do things especially when car is also a daily ride.
You can read some stuff here too:
https://nrich.maths.org/discus/messages ... 1050348163
Building greatly handling vehicle is bit of art really, there has to be balance between all aspects and change somewhere will probably need some changes here and there, but getting it right will be something rather impressive
To get proper drifting, car would need lot more torque, something around 250 might start to be quite well, so car can keep it up as long as one wishes? With 180 I needed to start control my throttle usage on wet with 360, but no chance to loose traction at 2nd when it was dry, 1.4 has something like 120 of torque?
I have become old as I felt that 70kph was so loud in 360 that I could not bare to go faster, when I did one testdrive of it some time ago, too much tire/exhaust noise
Volvo 360GL -88 -under restoration-
Volvo 343DL vario -81 -running-
Volvo 240 Diesel -83 -undecided-
Citroen ZX Dturbo -97 -daily-
Volvo 343DL vario -81 -running-
Volvo 240 Diesel -83 -undecided-
Citroen ZX Dturbo -97 -daily-
Re: my first car* 1.4 1990 340 exhaust repairs
I'm probably wrong as per usual, but wouldn't an ARB on the back be totaly pointless? Are they not fitted to the front to tie the left and right together as being front suspension it's independant.
Where as the rear is a straight axle so i can't see any benefit to it?
Where as the rear is a straight axle so i can't see any benefit to it?
89 3dr 340DL in Battleship grey with Ultralights and Williams power
Whats the matter with the car i'm driving can't you tell that it's out of style?
Whats the matter with the car i'm driving can't you tell that it's out of style?
Re: my first car* 1.4 1990 340 exhaust repairs
But it still would resists whole axle to rotate or body to rotate over axle, which way you like to see.magnumpi wrote:I'm probably wrong as per usual, but wouldn't an ARB on the back be totaly pointless? Are they not fitted to the front to tie the left and right together as being front suspension it's independant.
Where as the rear is a straight axle so i can't see any benefit to it?
Independent or not has not much to do about it as ARB get's it's 'power from outside wheel and just transfers it to inside wheel, so that it lifts inside end of the axle, where in situation without ARB there are no such effect present at all.
ARB is always limiting movement of suspension by somewhat, if other side wheel moves more than other, so that way at front it can be seen as connecting wheels, but what it really do is just pushing or pulling the wheel up or down, it really does not matter if there is axle end or independent suspension arm connected to it.
Think it as movement restrictor, also think rear axle as if it would have pivot point at around center, ARB is connected to near end of axle and it tries to keep both ends from not moving, if you turn axle ARB is twisted and diameter of ARB is defining force that is acting against that twisting so by that force it is trying to put axle back to straight, same way it works if there would be no axle, you can think virtual axle being there.
That is how I have understood how it is, sure I too can be wrong, it has happened sometimes, I think
Volvo 360GL -88 -under restoration-
Volvo 343DL vario -81 -running-
Volvo 240 Diesel -83 -undecided-
Citroen ZX Dturbo -97 -daily-
Volvo 343DL vario -81 -running-
Volvo 240 Diesel -83 -undecided-
Citroen ZX Dturbo -97 -daily-
Re: my first car* 1.4 1990 340 exhaust repairs
No thats quite a comprehensive explanation, so if it is all true, i get it now 
89 3dr 340DL in Battleship grey with Ultralights and Williams power
Whats the matter with the car i'm driving can't you tell that it's out of style?
Whats the matter with the car i'm driving can't you tell that it's out of style?
Re: my first car* 1.4 1990 340 exhaust repairs
Also if it would be obsolete, then why factory rallycross team did use them and why would they put one to group-b rallycar prototype (363cs)? That is why I think that it really have to work somehow goodmagnumpi wrote:No thats quite a comprehensive explanation, so if it is all true, i get it now
Anyway will be nice to hear what kind of experiences you will have with it when you get it installed
Volvo 360GL -88 -under restoration-
Volvo 343DL vario -81 -running-
Volvo 240 Diesel -83 -undecided-
Citroen ZX Dturbo -97 -daily-
Volvo 343DL vario -81 -running-
Volvo 240 Diesel -83 -undecided-
Citroen ZX Dturbo -97 -daily-
Re: my first car* 1.4 1990 340 exhaust repairs
thank you for the replies again people, amazing info there! especially from jtbo well im afraid i lied when i said i'd get pictures.. i forgot. but it now has a pipe where the cat converter was.. and is nice and quiet (until you floor it)
i will look into the anti roll bar route.. see where i can put the pivot etc
well im afraid i lied when i said i'd get pictures.. i forgot. but it now has a pipe where the cat converter was.. and is nice and quiet (until you floor it) i will look into the anti roll bar route.. see where i can put the pivot etc
Re: my first car* 1.4 1990 340 exhaust repairs
Hmm, Fuse's storage of photos seem to be gone offline, there had been great photos for you about how those have been installed, you could PM him about ARB pics, I would guess he would love to help with that as he is such a great guyvalman wrote:thank you for the replies again people, amazing info there! especially from jtbo
i will look into the anti roll bar route.. see where i can put the pivot etc
Anyway narrow section to body and two ends to axle, look how narrow part is mounted at front so you get idea, probably you can get needed parts from scrappie + some metal, which can be welded or bolted, I would think latter being better, with bushings there should be not much noise transmitted to car body, without them it can be bit noisy. That is at least what I have figured out when I did plan installing one, but never got around and now I would need another 300 for that as I'm going to keep my current one original and try to restore it as well as I can (which is not much)
Volvo 360GL -88 -under restoration-
Volvo 343DL vario -81 -running-
Volvo 240 Diesel -83 -undecided-
Citroen ZX Dturbo -97 -daily-
Volvo 343DL vario -81 -running-
Volvo 240 Diesel -83 -undecided-
Citroen ZX Dturbo -97 -daily-
Re: my first car* 1.4 1990 340 exhaust repairs
Restoring Jani 
What about the megasquirted track toy!
What about the megasquirted track toy!'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
Re: my first car* 1.4 1990 340 exhaust repairs
Well, I guess that I get some other one for that, or then I just accept being too old and slow for anything like that anymoreChris_C wrote:Restoring Jani
Volvo 360GL -88 -under restoration-
Volvo 343DL vario -81 -running-
Volvo 240 Diesel -83 -undecided-
Citroen ZX Dturbo -97 -daily-
Volvo 343DL vario -81 -running-
Volvo 240 Diesel -83 -undecided-
Citroen ZX Dturbo -97 -daily-
Re: my first car* 1.4 1990 340 exhaust repairs
todays jobs:
get exhaust putty
damage assesment after hitting a humpback bridge at 60 last night and landing in grass
get exhaust putty
damage assesment after hitting a humpback bridge at 60 last night and landing in grass