Greetings from Down Under

[K3FSAR]

Hello Gents,

Since I've been stalking a while I thought I may as well introduce myself. I was more hoping to get my 360 GLT going before I posted but have now been trying a few weeks to get it going. But more of that in a bit....

But I should introduce myself, my name is Dan. And I apparently have a problem. Since I am based in Tasmania, Australia and keep buying rare European cars (for here anyways). The original idea was to buy three 360 GLTs, which was quickly shot down by my father since at the time I didn't have a house. Mind you this was 7 years ago, so I bought a Ford Mondeo ST24 instead, which has been a great car. Just I found out after I bought it only 277 made it to Australia and 2 clutches and 1 diff later, kind of a bit over it (and very much poorer) Oh, and 2nd clutch was 500kms after the first. Was actually faulty so only added to my frustrations. I'm over the fact you require 2 or more people to even work on the car. And support everything to drop the 'box out et all. So thats up for sale, and I now have in my possession two 360 GLTs (only 300 series that made it to Australia too afaik). And one is actually off the same guy I asked about 7 years ago. He had still yet to get rid of it. One is registered and going to be using one for parts (rather bent and not working that well).

So with all that, the one I got that was registered was leaking a bit (being an understatement) of oil. Which I tracked down to being the flame trap and surrounding pipes were blocked. So pulled everything off including the throttle body and gave everything a good clean up, replaced old pipes etc etc. Stuck it all back together and now it will not go properly. I've checked over all the electrics and made sure everything was plugged in firmly and still not going right. Only thing I took off was the EGR valve which was rusted solid and was no pipe to the exhaust (was crimped, same on the other car too, so must be an Aussie emissions thing, I dunno), which would make little or no difference correct?

To sum it up:
It won't start with all pipes plugged in. From what it looks like it keeps flooding the engine.
Will start if I unplug the pipe leading to the flame trap and also take blocked pipe that leads to the EGR. Idles at around 2,000 revs and if I touch accelerator, it dies.

I've swapped the Air Flow Meter off the other car and made no difference, I don't know if both are dead. I do have a Haynes manual and all checks out to specs as per that. So if anyone has any other ideas, please by all means let me know. Been trying to get this fixed for a few weeks and slowly driving me insane.

And sorry for the long post too.....

[volvosneverdie]

Welcome in mate.
Sorry I cant help you with your problem but m sure someone on here will be able too.

Pics of the beasts when you get time.

[jtbo]

There is 4 injectors and 1 cold start injector that is in middle of manifold, unplug that and see if it helps for rich running.

There is idle air valve top of motor, around middle, make sure there are no leaks between that and manifold, often those valves get stuck during time, lot of wd40/crc and small screw driver to move it manually might help to get it working somehow, tapping side of it has been very useful trick too, but first you need to get it to move at least with bit force. One I had was almost solid at first, had to make it move by force and it never become very good, always tended to stick a bit.

Well, this is from memory how it is, I have not had GLT, only my own creation from GLT parts + megasquirt, but I have seen a pic of GLT engine bay Anyway, not a rocket science, so it should work like that, also I remember reading something about downunder + cold start injector, if I don't recall quite wrong, often it has been disconnected as it has tendency to flood engine when weather is pleasant for wearing t-shirt.

[Ride_on]

Hard to know about the EGR we mostly don't have it, but does your starting condition just allow unmetered air in past the throttle body? The inlet/breather pipes should be sealed to the crank case so you get a vacuum at idle.

As a quick guess, like jtbo, I'd say maybe you are running very rich from leaking cold start injector or other injectors. The cold start is driven by a thermal time switch, so if it is faulty can cause problems too. I think you are in your summer now.

[K3FSAR]

Thanks guys for the tips. I'll give it a crack this weekend and see how I go.

And I'll get some pics once its back going and out of my backyard

[K3FSAR]

Well I've pulled the idle air valve off and given it a good ol' clean. Also unplugged the cold start injector too to see if that makes a difference, and it hasn't.

Looks like I shall stick back on an EGR valve. Rather odd that would be it as when its open its blocked off anyways but I shall give that a whirl. Got one off a newer car which doesn't fit, but nothing a drill and some patience can't solve.

I'll let you guys know how I go, or if anyone has any other suggestions, by all means fire away.

[K3FSAR]

Still no luck. Fitted a new EGR off a later model Volvo to it (only one I could find) and still the same. So I'm running out of options and patience.

Found another thread on here about bypassing http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... f=6&t=8966 Whether I can easily do the same, that I do not know. And rectify the problem.

Pic of the engine bay:


Also might take the injectors out too and get them inspected in case they are leaky. But yes.

[Chris_C]

WTF.. .thats yet another Aussie GLT with the heater resistor pack in the random place (not the first, the DVS strut brace has a cut out for it here http://www.dvs.net.au/360brace1.jpg)

Sorry I can't be more use on the EGR though, I've never seen a car with it :S

[jtbo]

Have you tested how it runs when you leave air flow meter disconnected?

Then, as I like to pull things out when there is malfunction, I would pull out injector connectors one by one, of course connecting old ones back in, which one does not affect running?

How are spark plugs? Oily wet black? Especially from cylinder where engine running does not get affected you should find oily wet black sparkplug if spark is the problem.

I have had rather new sparkplugs that died on me and only because it did run bit rich for a moment.

Have you measured intake temp sensor, or had these even one?

Generally pulling something out and seeing what it does affect or does it affect, is good thing to do, sometimes I end up with good spare parts in process, don't know quite how that happens, but it's all good as long as it goes.

It acts like if air intake would be blocked some way, have you tried to adjust throttle butterfly bit more open, does it fail to start completely then?

If I remember correctly thing has some failsafe mode if air flow meter is disconnected, but if it is connected and air is not running trough it, then car will run badly.

Have you used sandpaper to all fuse and relay connectors in fuse box already? That is one place to check problems, underside of that fuse box is really a mess quite often, for example in my car there was some melting marks from poor contacts.

How is your fuel pump, does it make sound and is there enough pressure? Oh about that one, you have fuel pressure regulator at end of fuel rail, it operates by vacuum, I can see in pic near distributor, if that does not get vacuum, then car runs rich at low rpm, also it is not rare to have that regulator to fail. I once tweaked fuel pressure of mine by putting clamp on fuel return line that leaves the regulator, if your fuel pressure is low, that is how you can build up pressure, however it is not good method and may end up to disaster.

Don't know if anything gives any help to you, maybe you have played with all those, but there should be respond to some test and from there it is possible to pulle some other part off and see what effect it will have

EGR is only circulating some of exhaust gases when engine is warmed up and idling, other times it is shut, so it is rather safe to remove it, should not really effect running or should not have much to do with problem, unless there is something else wrong, like engine not getting air from proper route or vacuum in system being wrong.

[trabitom99]

WTF.. .thats yet another Aussie GLT with the heater resistor pack in the random place (not the first, the DVS strut brace has a cut out for it here http://www.dvs.net.au/360brace1.jpg)

I noticed that too! Might be something to do with the air con?

Cheers

Tom

[K3FSAR]

Alright, it is back on the road. And proving to be a nice reliable little car. Problem was a faulty engine temp sensor under the intake manifold But hey, is now my little daily driver.

Since I am looking at getting this thing back to tip top condition, and parts are actually pretty cheap for it down here (who would of thought) - I would like some input in what to do with the suspension.
The rear suspension is saggy one could say, and was wondering whether a new set of shockies will do the trick to fix that or more needs to be done with the leaf springs and/or bushes etc.?

And I'll get around to posting some pics soon. Doesn't look that happy at the moment, as hit a rather large roo and smashed the front LHS in a bit. Pushed the shroud into the fan and made a god awful noise Nearly fixed, just not straight. Gave it a good ol' whopping >_<

[K3FSAR]

Doctor, I think I have a problem.... I am now up to 3 Volvo 360GLTs

My daily driver. 1984 Volvo 360 GLT with B19E



Identical to the car above... Apart from the large dent and missing radiator and drivers window (All that is missing to make a complete car)



And the new member to the family is this! Cost me a whole 99c on eBay. Going down in a few days to pick it up. Should be the base to something great......

[macplaxton]

Cost me a whole 99c on eBay.

Lovely! (Far away?)

[K3FSAR]

About 4 hours there and back. Should be a nice Saturday drive in the country side. But for 99 cents, I am not complaining

[volvosneverdie]

Epic Ebay win!

Think thats a record for any Upside down 300 owner (3 cars)

Koudos.