After the frashing of its life at Retro rides the car has been unwell, it originally didnt want to idle which i linked to the breather hose being broken and the pipe connecting to the brake servo being so lose you could hear it hissing
So those problems now fixed the car idles nicely at 1000 rpm which is a little high but ok by my standards, any way when you drive, it goes along ok and then if you drive it hard it will cut out when you stop or press the clutch pedal down. a restart later and it will not want to idle and then will idle but at 2000 rpm which isnt nice with my exhaust and in traffic .
Any ideas what could be the problem, im thinking something to do with the carb so i was going to remove it and have a look, i dont think its a vacuum leak as the idle stays constant just at either 1000 rpm or 2000 rpm.
If it is a vacuum leak where else apart from base of the carb and between the manifolds and block can one be? and how likely is it to be the gasket between the manifolds and the block as i have only recently replaced this?
Cheers for any help
p.s can someone please move this to the engine section.
Hmm curious. I wonder whether it might be carb icing, but then its really too hot weather for that to occur. Might be a loose jet or a partial blockage and when you drive it hard you move it around and it blocks worse. I'd take the carb apart and make sure everything's clean and properly set up.
Sounds like a plan, i have a few carbs lying about so will mix and match parts if need be to make an uber carb lol, will also replace the carb gaskets aswell to eliminate that as a potential cause.
does it idle at 2000rpm without you touching the throttle?
then it could be that the 2nd venturi valve in the carb is stuck open, making normal stationary mixture too lean for the car to run on. can be solved by greasing the mechanic throttle mechanism with some lubricant
Might be a long shot but check the choke is properly adjusted. Mine seems to enjoy engaging itself whenever it feels like it. I've had some similar problems lately but after a little race around it's gone away again, replaced by 1500rpm idle which I adjusted down.
My advice? Try ragging it around your local streets at 3am
Cheers for the help guys, I took the carb of today and took it apart, there were a few seized parts which i replaced with unseized parts from another carb but still no success, it now runs as tho there is a vacuum leak sometimes and others it does the random constant rpm thing it is well and truly annoying.
one thing i did notice with the carb is that after a run and the engine was off but still hot the carb made a bubbling noise and sometimes you could see fuel driping down the barrels of the carb so i think it is probably past it sell by date
volvodspec - It runs at a constant but random rpm, so sometimes 1000 rpm others 2000 rpm, and sometimes its all over the place.
Pettaw - How much fuel should be in the float chamber? becuase when i first opened the carb up there was loads in there but figured it was normal. And how do i adjust this?
Im gonna start some reading on carbs i think, as there seems to be alot to know about them and my knowledge on em is weak at its best lol.
Bazboy wrote:It runs at a constant but random rpm, so sometimes 1000 rpm others 2000 rpm, and sometimes its all over the place.
definatly a floaterchamber problem.
probably won't be a leaking floater or wrong float level.
about 90% sure the problem is a broken/worn floaterchamber gasket; other 10% possibility is the floaterchamber cover wich is cracked or bent if you take the floaterchamber off it will probably ly in pieces or have tears in it.
you can inspect it if that's definatly the problem by taking the cover off; don't repair with liquid gasket this is a much to critical place of the carb for that kind of stuff, refurbishing kit wich includes this gasket will be your best option since it also includes a few other parts you can place at the same time.
The float chamber looked ok when i had it apart no breaks or anything, and the gasket wasnt damaged so i thought that would be ok, How much are these kits to refurb the carb and where can i get one from?
what you're experiencing is that the car trys to run stationary but gets extra fuel directly from the fuel pump.
at stationary level this will only provide random fuel supply rather than constant (as you will have with an electric pump)
if the gasket is broken or the floaterchambercover is loose enough the fuel can run into the barrels, depending on how big the leak is this can let the car go from 500 to 2500rpm and back + repeat 10.000times all by itself.
for some reason the fuel gets into the barrels wich it shouldn't be able to do.
if the 5 floaterchamber bolts run loose and the cover starts bouncing around; this will wear down and damage the gasket; after securing the cover you can still have these problems.
2nd possible cause besides the gasket is a leak floater, but to be honest that's very rare on this type of weber..
3rd possible cause can be a stuk floaterneedle due to some dirt or something; you'll notice this strait away when putting the floaterchamber cover upside down and suck on the petrol feed; you shouldn't be able to suck air in (because the needle shuts it off)
Dan to check the float level height take the cover off and hold it at an angle so that the float just closes the needle but doesn't depress the springy ball valve in the top of it. Then you need to measure the distance between the very bottom of the float (the welded bump in the middle) and the top of the carb which should be 7mm. Best way is to use a 7mm drill bit, that way you can't get caught out by angles. Just pass it under and make sure it passes freely.
Its quite a flddly job and pretty important so I would probably take the carb off the car to do it so you can take it apart in peace and not be trying to juggle this and that whilst setting the level. Also you can take it apart carefully without tearing the gaskets, hopefully.
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