how to fit rear lowering blocks

[classicswede]

This is very oldpost ofmine that I am reposting.

First off you will need some tools:
Jack, axle stand, wheel brace, 6mm hex key, 17mm spanner, a good half inch drive ratchet with a 17mm flat sided socket (left hand side of pic)


Fist off losen the wheel the jack one side at the rear up and then reve the wheel. Place an axle stand under the car incase of any problems.

Once you have done that the drive shaft needs to be removed from the hub(the diff end does not need to be disturbed).


Now you can get to the spring retaining bolts. Use the 17mm spanner and the 17mm socket to remove the nuts and bolts.



You can now slide the lowering blocks in and reasemble. Make sure you refix the shimes as they are there to reduce rubbing.


Well I must say even though I have loads of weight in the back and with the lowering blocks the front is sitting lower. It looks nice as it is now and I'm sure you guys will love it.

When fitting blocks over 1" thick you need to slacken the top arm bolt to allow it to move. Retighten once the blocks are tightened up.

[volvodspec]

before loosening the bolts holding the leafspring in place, get all the dirt out of the thread with a steel wire brush, saves a lot of swearing

[J340GLT]

think you should do a topic for fitting lowering springs as well!!!!

[classicswede]

I will do one as soon as I have to do one.Need a car to do for the pictures.

[volvosneverdie]

sticky!!!

[SteveP]

Done!

[mrsoundcraft]

When you say top arm bolt, are you reffering to the bolts where the leaf spring mounts to the underside of the car?

[classicswede]

No the top arm or torque arm. The torque arm is on teh rhs of the car and you need to slacken it where it bolts to teh axle otherwise the exle will be on a twist.

[mrsoundcraft]

Is this the anti tramp bar? Im still not convinced with how my rear wheels are sitting but I dont know what other bolts you might mean.

[classicswede]

yep the anti tramp bar

[mrsoundcraft]

Thanks, all seems to be well now.

[jcred22]

This is very oldpost ofmine that I am reposting.

First off you will need some tools:
Jack, axle stand, wheel brace, 6mm hex key, 17mm spanner, a good half inch drive ratchet with a 17mm flat sided socket (left hand side of pic)


Fist off losen the wheel the jack one side at the rear up and then reve the wheel. Place an axle stand under the car incase of any problems.

Once you have done that the drive shaft needs to be removed from the hub(the diff end does not need to be disturbed).


Now you can get to the spring retaining bolts. Use the 17mm spanner and the 17mm socket to remove the nuts and bolts.



You can now slide the lowering blocks in and reasemble. Make sure you refix the shimes as they are there to reduce rubbing.


Well I must say even though I have loads of weight in the back and with the lowering blocks the front is sitting lower. It looks nice as it is now and I'm sure you guys will


love it.

When fitting blocks over 1" thick you need to slacken the top arm bolt to allow it to move. Retighten once the blocks are tightened up.

Hi, im in the process of fitting 3 inch blocks 2 my car (done one side so far)

The bolts seem like they'r at an angle compared to the blocks, is this normal???

Also the thin plate that usually sits on top of the leaf spring is not flat due to the raised hole in the centre of it so I put it on top of the lowering block, will this be ok??

Great thread by the way, helped me alot, although I managed to do it without removing the drive shaft, if my star shaped allen key wasnt so worn I wouldv done it ur way tho coz it wouldv been quicker, I didnt want to end up rounding it off.

[classicswede]

Sounds like you need to slacken the bolt for the torque arm to allow the axle to sit in the correct position.

[jcred22]

I did that. It seemed that the only way to get them straight would be to not line up the holes and dowells in the centre of the spacers/shims. Anyway there not too much at an angle, I notice that the angles in the pic above look the same as mine, mine looks worse coz my blocks are bigger. Thanx!

Pm sent about your front shocks.

[jcred22]

I think im gonna hav to remove the anti tramp bar to get the axle sitting straight so that the bolts for the blocks are parrallel with the blocks themselves. Ill have to weld an adjuster into the bar or just bend it a bit to make it fit. Or I might be able to modify where it bolts to a bit. Iv got an adjustable panhard rod for a mk1 fiesta so I might just steal the adjuster from that. Would be nice if the fiesta rod fits on the volvo as it is but things are never that simple.