Engine runs for 40 seconds after ignition switch is off

[shamil]

What could be the problem, I have replaced the plug ,plug wire and distributer but still the problem remains!!!!

[MCHUDD]

Hi shamil.
There is probably too much air getting into the carb and it is running rich.
Cheers Mark.

[Speedy88]

Cut off solenoid?

[2 Fast 4 U]

Cut off solenoid?

My thought to

[Ride_on]

Searching your posts you seem to have a 1.4 340

40s is very long, you must be getting fuel in after the ignition is off.

Even pouring in a large dash of fuel to the carb it won't run for 40s Either you are not on the idle circuit or the idle solenoid is leaking, or some other leakage.

[CBA]

hmmm... how does the engine run? can it be driven in this state, EG is it properly running or is it just dieselling/knocking?

Does revving it up make it run for less time or does engine speed not effect the time it runs for?

Have you recently done any wiring work in the dash or under the bonnet?

Digs out manual...
First things first...
check fuse number 10 under the bonnet, replace it once (if it is blown) and see if it blows again - report!

--- if it's not blown, or doesn't blow again - try starting and stopping the engine.

no change?...

take out fuse 12 (most likely to short and cause this type of problem) and see if it fixes it, tell me what happens.


---

Is this a manual or auto???

what year/month/date is it? (i've not got amnesia... I mean the car) get me date of reg from logbook if you can.

--- dunno what schematic to use... need to trace for... too much continuity... EG things that are on when they should be off, this is almost certainly electrical, even if it was a hot cylinder and leaking carb there's still the fuel cut off solenoid, it's just unlikely to bang on for 40 seconds...

Answer what you can and I'll figure out a proper plan of attack, date of reg is most important, and transmission type, confirm the engine size too, oh trim level would help me with the wiring.


________________

[shamil]

Thanks CBA

it viberates in idle but can drive

Manufacture Date is 1986

Registered date is 1988 (Sri lanka)

Manual
1.4 B14E

PS. i have replaced a carb, morning when i start and switch off it runs for like 10 seconds but it gets worst when the engine HEATS up

Previous owner has messed every thing

[shamil]

ignition system has been modify by the previous owner and the heater box has been removed

[kaos]

Sounds like standard engine overrun. Which is to do with carbon build up inside the engine from memory, it builds upt oo much and the heat stays for a while hence fuel keeps burning and so on.

[volvodspec]

Previous owner has messed every thing

you can definatly say that; what a mess!!!!!!

i believe carbon buildup or fuel-cutoff solenoid aren't the problems, the problems are the mess this engine has to cope with. from your pics i can allready tell there are a few pointers wich explain a faulty mixture seting wich mostlikely is the reason for this "diesel" behaviour


http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/d ... &mode=view

that cover with 3 screws with the W on it, it is mounted wrong. by looking at this pic it needs to be turned anti-clockwise and then mounted, making the W view like a reversed E.
placing this cover on wrong affects partial load fuel consumption, cruising at 40mph is just as economic as cruising at 70mph for you at this moment.
on the carb base there is a hose 5cm long with it looks like something in it, is this hose blocked off completely or does this still have a leak??


http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/d ... &mode=view
the choke cable isn't adjusted properly, there should be about 1cm of unused cable, you have aprox 3cm judging by the pic, is the choke's butterfly valve completely open and the throttle not touched by the mechanism when you have the choke off??


http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/d ... &mode=view
the pneumatic-choke membrame on the right is missing, this means you have a vacuumleak and that makes a correct mixture setting impossible!

also, i see that the heaterhoses are bypassed on the waterpump, but also the carb preheat hoses!! this can cause the carburator to freeze when you drive on the highway, i suggest that you hose this up again, you can do that with normal straight ø10mm waterhose cut to length but if you can find the original hoses in ok condition those will work too


and last but not least, that "custom" ignition system, if you can; build it back to Renix with the 412a mapping. there is nothing better for this B14.4E engine!!!

[CBA]

Can the timing on this engine be set with this custom ignition?
Can the distributor be turned and can you time it up with a strobe light?
If you can ADVANCE the timing it could sort out the problem, maybe the fuel is burning too late and kindof blowtorching the exhaust valves...

Also, what sort of MPG are you getting, should be around 30MPG urban and around 40 or better on the motorway.
If you get good economy the mixture is likely quite good, so try to set the timing - keep advancing a few degrees, drive it round the block and see if it turns off properly.


With all the messing that's been done the schematic is useless

Just try tweaking the timing a little.

Also I'm thinking, does it have an Ignition Control Module (Ignition amplifier), wired between the distributor trigger and ignition coil, a little silver box (not the square thing pictured, this should look like a little mini ECU typre thing, quite substantial but smallish...)
Google Volvo Ignition Module -
if this isn't wired up properly (earthed and with 12V coming from ignition key only with ignition on, + the key should turn off all power to the amplifier AND coil) eddy currents from the alternator or even from the coil itself can "keep the gate open" in the mosfet of the amplifier/module and make the engine run and run and run till the mosfet overheats through too much collector current.


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60,300miles.
The suspension is holding together, just.
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[CBA]

it's a "normal" dizzy, YAY! (actually looked at pictures).

undo the nut, advance the timing (anticlockwise I think...) till it doesn't knock any more, then have the mixture set with a gas analyser if you can. Hopefully, and it is pretty optimistic, that could sort it.

[volvodspec]

doing any finetuning to the ignition with the carb in this state is nothing more than working your way around problems rather than solving them.

[CBA]

I'm thinking that could be a good idea, just working round it for the time being, if the problem can be sorted for now with a bit of timing then he can worry about the carburettor as and when. and you never know, the economy and power may* turn out to be good with better timing...

God knows what's wrong INSIDE this carburettor too.

I was wanting a "normal" dizzy a while back, so I could mess with the tuning myself - let me use cheap fuel more effectively was my idea - Dont see why the dizzy HAS to go, but the carb wants stripping and rebuilding for sure.

I can scan the manual and email the blown up diagram of the carb if you want. just tell me the model no of the carb, I'm not upto scratch with what should be in it, and can;t be sure if its the original carb to start off with.

[shamil]

Thank you volvodspec & CBA

The detail explanation youll made has help me a lot, actually I didn’t know that the Carb was messed up (I replaced it a week back)
I have a vedio clip of my engine started if you want see it please PM me

Carb Version weber 32 DIR 104

Dose any one have picures of the carb and how to fix all the hoses


Thanks agian


i think the air is leaking from there that why it has been block. actually what is that for?