Problem with sony cd player and powersuply in 360
Problem with sony cd player and powersuply in 360
Hello! I just got my brand new cd player..
I have bought a set of iso adaptors, and this fits very well into the old powersuply contact and the back of my player.
Well, when i've connected everything i did just like the manual said. Push RESET and then SOURCE. (thats what i figured out after reading).
Nothing happened.. The strange thing is that when i push a cd into the cd hole, the cd is sucked in. This require a power source. Still, the cd player display won't turn on..
I need help! Someone have told me that its maybe something wrong with it, and that i maybe should deliver it back and get a new one.
Anyone with knowledge in this? Is there anything special you have to do the first time?
Greetings, Anders.
I have bought a set of iso adaptors, and this fits very well into the old powersuply contact and the back of my player.
Well, when i've connected everything i did just like the manual said. Push RESET and then SOURCE. (thats what i figured out after reading).
Nothing happened.. The strange thing is that when i push a cd into the cd hole, the cd is sucked in. This require a power source. Still, the cd player display won't turn on..
I need help! Someone have told me that its maybe something wrong with it, and that i maybe should deliver it back and get a new one.
Anyone with knowledge in this? Is there anything special you have to do the first time?
Greetings, Anders.
Volvo 360 1986, light green
- 340GLT
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What make is the unit mate? The CD going in shows it has power, does it do this with the ignition on or off? if off it means it has a constant power supply, if it only does it when on and not when off it means you dont have a constant live.
Cheers Adam
Cheers Adam
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- foggyjames
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Agreed, have you tried it with the ignition on?
cheers
James
cheers
James
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- foggyjames
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& when the four red lights come on.
cheers
James
cheers
James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
- foggyjames
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No, I'm asking if you've tried switching it on with the engine running!
cheers
James
cheers
James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
- foggyjames
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Not neccessarily. Some features (primarily the eject mechanism) will work with the ignition off. We've still not had an answer that that (ie: he doesn't have the ignition on) isn't the problem!
cheers
James
cheers
James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
- Andy's-Old-Beast
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Hi folks (this is my first posting, having just registered).
Most (almost all I've seen) modern car stereos have two positive inputs to the power supply.
As well as the earth (usually black), there is a 10-amp constant feed (usually yellow), permanently connected to the + side of the battery. This is so the memory of all the audio settings, radio station presets, etc are not lost every time the ignition is switched off. It also powers the amplifiers and tape or cd mechanisms, hence the 10-amp rating.
There is also a 3-amp switched feed (usually red) which should only be live when the ignition is on. This powers the display and switchgear, and often pre-amplifiers.
I have never worked with a Sony stereo so I can't say for sure that yours will be wired in this way, but it's been true of most of the aftermarket stereos I've fitted in various cars over the years.
It sounds to me like the 10-amp wire is live, allowing the cd to load and eject, but the 3-amp is not connected.
Incidently, I fitted a Blaupunkt stereo to my 360 when I first got it, but it used to make a buzzing sound through the speakers whenever I drove on just the sidelights. It got progressively worse until one day on the way home from work the tape stopped and I looked over to find black smoke pouring out of the tape loading slot! A panicked fuse-removal later, and thankfully the rest of the car was saved. I wired the next stereo in to a new suply, taken straight from the battery!
Most (almost all I've seen) modern car stereos have two positive inputs to the power supply.
As well as the earth (usually black), there is a 10-amp constant feed (usually yellow), permanently connected to the + side of the battery. This is so the memory of all the audio settings, radio station presets, etc are not lost every time the ignition is switched off. It also powers the amplifiers and tape or cd mechanisms, hence the 10-amp rating.
There is also a 3-amp switched feed (usually red) which should only be live when the ignition is on. This powers the display and switchgear, and often pre-amplifiers.
I have never worked with a Sony stereo so I can't say for sure that yours will be wired in this way, but it's been true of most of the aftermarket stereos I've fitted in various cars over the years.
It sounds to me like the 10-amp wire is live, allowing the cd to load and eject, but the 3-amp is not connected.
Incidently, I fitted a Blaupunkt stereo to my 360 when I first got it, but it used to make a buzzing sound through the speakers whenever I drove on just the sidelights. It got progressively worse until one day on the way home from work the tape stopped and I looked over to find black smoke pouring out of the tape loading slot! A panicked fuse-removal later, and thankfully the rest of the car was saved. I wired the next stereo in to a new suply, taken straight from the battery!
Previous owner of The Beast!
Now a 1969 Dodge Monaco 5.2 V8
Now a 1969 Dodge Monaco 5.2 V8
F*** sakes! My radio is also making a buzzing sound, and it's also gettig worse. I've just bought my radio so I will take it out as soon as possible. So a straight wire from battery to radio you say? No fuse between it?
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- foggyjames
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Yes, always use a fuse!
I think you might be on the right track Andy. Unfortunately, our original poster hasn't told us whether this problem occurs with the ignition (or engine!) on or not.
cheers
James
I think you might be on the right track Andy. Unfortunately, our original poster hasn't told us whether this problem occurs with the ignition (or engine!) on or not.
cheers
James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
- Andy's-Old-Beast
- Posts: 144
- Joined: 06 Dec 2005 08:39 pm
- Location: Vancouver, Canada
Yikes!
Glad we've caught it in time!
The buzzing might have been caused by the stereo and not the car, it was quite an old stereo. But just to be sure, when I put the new one in I took a wire from the + terminal of the battery, with a 10-amp fuse halfway up it, through a hole with some other cables and connected it straight to the stereo. I also took a wire straight from the - terminal with no fuse, also to the stereo. I would definately put a fuse into any live conections you make, I just wanted to miss out whatever in the wiring loom of the car might have been causing the buzzing, as I didn't know whether it was the car or the stereo at fault.
I haven't heard the buzzing since. It only used to buzz when the ignition and the sidelights were on at the same time, with or without the engine running.
The down side with my new arrangement is that because I've bypassed the ignition switch, the stereo doen't turn off when I turn the car off. It just means I have to switch it off on the front of the stereo every time.
I don't know if this is the same problem in your car or not, it might be something completely different, but if you wanted to be safe it might be worth trying the same thing I did. At least we caught yours before any fire!
Glad we've caught it in time!
The buzzing might have been caused by the stereo and not the car, it was quite an old stereo. But just to be sure, when I put the new one in I took a wire from the + terminal of the battery, with a 10-amp fuse halfway up it, through a hole with some other cables and connected it straight to the stereo. I also took a wire straight from the - terminal with no fuse, also to the stereo. I would definately put a fuse into any live conections you make, I just wanted to miss out whatever in the wiring loom of the car might have been causing the buzzing, as I didn't know whether it was the car or the stereo at fault.
I haven't heard the buzzing since. It only used to buzz when the ignition and the sidelights were on at the same time, with or without the engine running.
The down side with my new arrangement is that because I've bypassed the ignition switch, the stereo doen't turn off when I turn the car off. It just means I have to switch it off on the front of the stereo every time.
I don't know if this is the same problem in your car or not, it might be something completely different, but if you wanted to be safe it might be worth trying the same thing I did. At least we caught yours before any fire!
Previous owner of The Beast!
Now a 1969 Dodge Monaco 5.2 V8
Now a 1969 Dodge Monaco 5.2 V8
