Sill and Jacking point repair on 360

Post by **pettaw** » 15 Aug 2004 07:42 pm

Hi guys, some of you will probably know me from the VOC.

The offside rear and front jacking points are collapsed and the seam has split from where the sill joins the box section. It was my oiwn fauly really I knew they were a bit soft but I still tried to use them to do the oil change. OOPS.

Where can I get some good work done for a reasonable price for my old and not worth anything but still cherished 1986 360?

I'm in the Harrow/Wembley area.

I've e-mailed Braydon, do you think they'd do the work on such an old car?

Andy

BTW I've just completely overhauled the A/C and spent quite a lot of dosh on it so I REALLY don't want to scrap this car.

Post by **foggyjames** » 15 Aug 2004 10:59 pm

Any decent independant Volvo specialist worth your while will be able to do it. If you fancy a trip to Devon I can recommend a couple of places...but that really shouldn't be necessary!

On the other hand, if you find a nice replacement and want a nice big cheque writing for that A/C kit (but probably not, cos I know how much you spent on getting it working!!)

Seriously though, lets keep it running for a while! The best thing might be to weld in a complete section from a good car. On the other hand a repair section is probably available. But it should be possible to do it using sheet metal.

cheers

James

Post by **pettaw** » 21 Aug 2004 12:15 am

And the rest! I also spent another 500 quid buying a Robinair Recovery and Recycling machine (not new, but in v good condition) So I can now do my own A/C work, 'cos basically the guy didn't do a proper job. He got it working, but it probably would have failed fairly soon.

Anyway, the matter in hand. Great news, Braydon are going to weld some plates on the inside of the soft areas and hammer them flat.

The cost, 150 quid +VAT, which equals 3 hours labour.

I know thats not as good a job as welding in some sections from a good car, but at least it gets it through the MOT for next year, when hopefully I can take this off the road and 'fix it up' without time pressure.

Thanks.

Andy

Post by **foggyjames** » 21 Aug 2004 03:28 pm

Would you be prepared to do potential aircon work for me in the future? Let say I found a 300 series car going for scrap...would you depressurised it for me...and then repressurise it when installed? That would be awesome. I'd obviously pay handsomely...

cheers

James

Post by **5lab** » 21 Aug 2004 03:38 pm

you can probably depressurise it yourself, just unbolt and stand back

Post by **foggyjames** » 21 Aug 2004 04:09 pm

I had thought of that

But I'm not sure what the scrap yard guys would say about having refridgerant pissing out at 75kPA (or whatever it is)! Having said that, I think they're supposed to drain it anyway.

cheers

James

Post by **pettaw** » 21 Aug 2004 06:28 pm

No probs.

Andy

Post by **pettaw** » 21 Aug 2004 06:59 pm

And Try 6 or 7 BAR. for a standing pressure.

My machine works on anything that has the R134a fittings on it. So any car that was on R12 needs conversion fittings.

Andy

Post by **foggyjames** » 21 Aug 2004 09:43 pm

OK, I'm going nowhere near that...!!! 7 Bar is serious shiznit.

Anyone know what refridgerant a late 300 AC kit uses? Presumably you know Andy!

cheers

James

Post by **pettaw** » 22 Aug 2004 08:28 am

Its all R12, but don't worry too much, apparently all AC systems leak a few percent a year, so there won't be much gas left in it by the time you get to it.

Post by **foggyjames** » 22 Aug 2004 12:29 pm

I'm guessing you've changed over to R134a - what was involved in that?

cheers

James

Post by **pettaw** » 22 Aug 2004 06:13 pm

To do it right and do it once only:

New R134a Drier
Flush system through,
Drain Compressor and flush with new Ester Oil
New fittings for R134a
Evacuate and refill with about 90% of R12 charge whlist monitoring pressures and temperatures.

Most shops only change the drier, add some Ester oil, PAG if they cheat even more change the fittings, vac and then charge with abour 80% charge, using the 'hand in front of the vents' test to see if it cools.

Post by **foggyjames** » 22 Aug 2004 11:56 pm

Is the drier an expensive / significant part? What is the total cost?

To be honest, I'm not that bothered about the cost...I can't tolerate many more summers without AC (after having it in the other two cars).

cheers

James

Post by **pettaw** » 23 Aug 2004 07:11 am

Extremely significant and not too expensive. About 50 quid should cover it.

If mops up all the moisutre and acid in the system as well as acting as a filter to clear out the debris from the liquid line.

The oil's expensive too. I paid 30 quid for a litre bottle. OUCH!

They get away with it because A/C isn't everywhere in this country yet, unlike the USA.

Post by **foggyjames** » 24 Aug 2004 02:20 am

Let's assume I found a complete AC kit on a scrap car...and that all the bits work ok (wishful thinking maybe, but this is only a theoreticaly exercise!)....what do you think it'd cost in total to get it all sorted out (changed to R134a, regassed, etc, etc)?

And how potent is the system when working? I've heard rumours that its a bit weedy...

cheers

James