I want a 340!!

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buyerbeware
Posts: 4
Joined: 03 Jun 2006 12:17 am

I want a 340!!

Post by buyerbeware »

Hey guys, I'm off to look at a 340 1.7 (E plate i think) with a view to buying on sunday. It'll be my first car, and i know they look cool and stuff but are there any technical points i should be looking out for?

I have a mate coming with me who knows his engines (i'm clueless in that department i'm afraid) so any help with things to look out for on a 340 1.7 of that age would be great - i want a 340 but don't want to throw away my money!

Anything specific i should note when test driving? Will it have a manual choke (i've never used one before!!)

Any help will be greatly received, please e-mail me: rayner_ross@yahoo.co.uk

Many thanks,

Ross :D
redline
*** V3M DONOR ***
Posts: 5432
Joined: 05 Oct 2004 10:18 am
Location: MILTON KEYNES , ENGLAND

Post by redline »

Hi , and welcome to the forum ,

hope the 340 turns out to be ok , obvious things to look for

rust ,especially on bonnet sills and tops of doors ( just below window )

the 1.7 is basically a renault engine , mine has always been super reliable and pretty quick .

check out any service history and bills to see if the car has been looked after

uneven running and cutting out at tickover can usually be linked to worn rotor arm /dizzy cap or loose carb mountings,


go with your gut instinct if it dosent feel right walk away ,

If it turns out to be not the car for you

where abouts are you ,

mine will be up for sale once I have put the numberplate on a retention certificate and will have an age related plate on it

go to

http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... php?t=2926

some accessories have now been removed so the price is negotiable
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SteveP
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Joined: 21 Sep 2004 12:45 pm
Location: Coventry, UK

Post by SteveP »

Poor running and hesitation on the 1.7 can also be down to a warped carb base. Rust can also creep in on the front valance, mainly visible from behind, along the rear chassis out riggers (above the backbox - where it can be missed) and on the opposite side. Check for sloppy a gear linkage - when in good condition, the gear linkage is pretty tight. Duff boot struts, and worn suspension are the other things to comment on - but they're cheap to rectify - but worth bargaining down on!
1989 - Volvo 360 GLT
1985 - Volvo 360 GLS
2008 - Volvo S60 SE Lux
pettaw
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Posts: 1673
Joined: 15 Aug 2004 07:39 pm
Location: London, UK

Post by pettaw »

Whereabouts are you? I'm sure if one of us is in the vague area we could come down with you to help look.

Steve and Mick have covered the main points, the poor running is the main issue really, its a really common thing in 1.7s of this age, and you wanna see it start from full cold, on choke and then run until fully warm and see that it idles and drives smoothly once completely warmed up, if its not, then you would need to factor in 100 quid or so to get it all sorted IMO.

Rust, rust, rust, if there's any in the structural areas, unless the price is right then I would walk away, there's plenty of good ones around for not much money.

Other than that and the other stuff that the guys have mentioned, if it looks right and feels right, then go for it, the 300 series is a great, undervalued car.
buyerbeware
Posts: 4
Joined: 03 Jun 2006 12:17 am

Post by buyerbeware »

thanks guy, went and bought an E plate 340 GL with 4months MOT for 100 quid today, in great condition!!

Cheers for all the help and i'll let you all know when i want to sell it before i move to central London in October and you guys can have first pickings! :D
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