Any tips on replacing/repairing motor on 360 electric windows The 12volts are getting through to the motor but after a short warning the driver s side one has stopped completely I got RAC Rescue to close window and reengage cog so it remains closed for security
Cheers mickt
Electric windows help
Done this a fair few times! The motor can be taken out of the mechanism using the two torq bolts, then pulling the motor up - good idea to test it on a 12v battery to see if the motor is completely duff. However, it can be difficult to align the spline of the new motor to the mechanism!
You can unbolt the small part of the mechanism and motor which joins to the rest of the window mech by undoing the three nuts (i think they're 13mm?). Then take the motor out of this, replace, and do up again. The motor spline needs to be aligned correctly with the bottom of the mechanism so that it pushes down fully (lots of cursing here).
After removing the motor, I filled up the cogged mechanism with WD40 and kept rotating the mechanism for about 10minutes, lots of mucky brown stuff running out - but now lovely smooth windows
EDIT: I assume that you'll want to replace the motor, since it's not a wiring problem if 12v is getting through to the motor itself?
You can unbolt the small part of the mechanism and motor which joins to the rest of the window mech by undoing the three nuts (i think they're 13mm?). Then take the motor out of this, replace, and do up again. The motor spline needs to be aligned correctly with the bottom of the mechanism so that it pushes down fully (lots of cursing here).
After removing the motor, I filled up the cogged mechanism with WD40 and kept rotating the mechanism for about 10minutes, lots of mucky brown stuff running out - but now lovely smooth windows
EDIT: I assume that you'll want to replace the motor, since it's not a wiring problem if 12v is getting through to the motor itself?
1989 - Volvo 360 GLT
1985 - Volvo 360 GLS
2008 - Volvo S60 SE Lux
1985 - Volvo 360 GLS
2008 - Volvo S60 SE Lux
What Steve said, I'd personally do the 3 bolts job, to me it's a lot easier. Steve... when you say you abused WD40 in the lil motor gearbox, isn't that filled up with grease? Which would be the mucky brown goo you saw coming out?!!? I'd have used the WD40 to clean up and then re greased... but I'm only going by memory that it is supposed to be greased.
If you have cleared it all out of yours, you could run into problems soon. I'll check when I fix Fakes in.
If you have cleared it all out of yours, you could run into problems soon. I'll check when I fix Fakes in.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
The brown muck was rust, pass side mechanism was rusted solid (was initially impossible to turn the cog on the back).... it has a light coating of grease inside from the factory (so does the motor spindle), but not alot atall. I can't see it running into problems - the only time they usually break is thorugh lack of use.
1989 - Volvo 360 GLT
1985 - Volvo 360 GLS
2008 - Volvo S60 SE Lux
1985 - Volvo 360 GLS
2008 - Volvo S60 SE Lux