1988 Volvo 360 GLT Project-Is no More :-(

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stealthstylz
Posts: 271
Joined: 22 Mar 2007 02:05 pm

Post by stealthstylz »

Just realised the deep dish wheels aren't ally cats they're Compomotive CX's hehe

Matt
stealthstylz
Posts: 271
Joined: 22 Mar 2007 02:05 pm

Post by stealthstylz »

Back together and looking mean hehe. Gonna try and get it lowered next I leant my spring compressors to a mate ages ago and now he can't find em. Hopefully one of my mates will have some I can borrow.

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Matt
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shimon340
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Joined: 04 Aug 2004 11:46 am
Location: Manchester, England

Post by shimon340 »

hi there!

looking good!!

Sorry :oops: to mention this now but Ive only just seen your post. The peach/pinky paint used for your underwings/inner wings. is that hammerite primer per chance? I used it on a 1983 340 fuel tank on my first car when I was 18. unless covered in a compatible paint eg hammerite, the primer will absorb water and leads to the metal evenrtually rusting. mine took 4 years to start rusting again so not an urgent panic but if the wing comes off easily... might be worth it...

good luck

S
Enjoy your 300s
stealthstylz
Posts: 271
Joined: 22 Mar 2007 02:05 pm

Post by stealthstylz »

Yep its hammerite primer. I've got some black top coat to go on eventually cant be arsed at minute tho it should hold back the rust for now.

Matt
Nick C
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Post by Nick C »

I'd always recommend painting over primer ASAP, as Shimon says it absorbs water, so you end up with it rusting through from under the paint. Fairly pointless to go to the effort of rustproofing it if you don't protect the rustproofing!
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MJ
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Post by MJ »

Afraid I've learnt this the hard way as well, but luckily it was just a small patch on the 850's wheel arch. The rust came straight through again so I ground it down again and painted over the primer as soon as it was dry.

Unfortunately the lacquer turned out to be dried up, and I never got round to applying new, must do that sometime...
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Chris_C
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Post by Chris_C »

MJ did bodywork!?!?

Me and Nick were discussing this 2 hours ago on the way to bognor (the pink stuff either being magical stuff we didn't know about or primer) +1 for sorting it pronto, last time I used hammerite primer it did the job for 4 months before the rust was back :(

Keep meaning to say though, awesome progress, I'm watching with interest.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
stealthstylz
Posts: 271
Joined: 22 Mar 2007 02:05 pm

Post by stealthstylz »

The pink stuff isnt primer in that sense, its called straight to rust paint. I painted the underneath of the dashboard on my 100e with it, without even getting any of the rust off as theres no room to get a wire brush in, about 6 years ago and the rust still hasnt come through it. It is pretty magical stuff tbh its the best rust stopper i've used would recommend it.

Im gonna paint over the grey primer next week havent had time to go and get some paint mixed yet.

Matt
Nick C
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Post by Nick C »

Hammerite do three different types of paint:

Straight to Rust Paint (Smoothrite or Hammerite) - the traditional Hammerite, available in loads of different colours in a tin or spray, and you put 2-3 coats on anything and it should protect it for a while. Designed for gates and railings etc, but commonly used on cars.

Anti-Rust Primer - Primer, can be applied to rust, is supposed to neutralise it. Is a primer and so needs to be overcoated with either Smoothrite or body-colour.

#1 Rust Beater - Also a primer, seems to be more effective at neutralising rust than the anti-rust primer, but also needs to be overcoated to protect it.
stealthstylz
Posts: 271
Joined: 22 Mar 2007 02:05 pm

Post by stealthstylz »

Its the straight to rust stuff hehe its brilliant on spots of surface rust stops em coming through again.

Matt
stealthstylz
Posts: 271
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Post by stealthstylz »

Latest Purchase (well I say purchase lol it was free)

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Gonna make a side exit exhaust for extra comedy value.

Matt
Last edited by stealthstylz on 17 Apr 2007 12:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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MJ
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Post by MJ »

Twas just a small patch Chris, and it wasn't on the 340 ;)
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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames »

I've used the #1 Rust Beater stuff in manly beige a fair bit, and if correctly applied and sealed in, it's actually amazing stuff for a 'DIY' product, given that most DIY products are hideous. I've also used Simoniz zinc brush-on primer, which is better, but trickier to find.

Must get a compressor and start using some 'proper' paint!

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
stealthstylz
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Joined: 22 Mar 2007 02:05 pm

Post by stealthstylz »

Few nice photos of it first

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I lowered the front at the weekend. I've chopped a couple of coils off. It clears on the standard alloys but not sure how it'll fare as i've had a sudden inkling to fit some saab 9000 turbo 3 spokes to it lol. I was quite suprsised as when I first lowered one side it only dropped about 1/2". However it settled overnight and is now loads lower but pics dont show it too well.

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Rear will be getting done this week hopefully.

Matt
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SteveP
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Post by SteveP »

Nice work, coming along :) What's happened to yer grille though :P :lol:
1989 - Volvo 360 GLT
1985 - Volvo 360 GLS
2008 - Volvo S60 SE Lux
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