Lowering advise

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Andy P
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Lowering advise

Post by Andy P »

Hi guys,

Finally got a 340 at the weekend! :D

I know this subject has been discussed before, and I have done a search but I've still got a few questions.

The 340 is to be my (very) cheap run about so all costs are to be kept to a minimum. I've been given some alooy wheels from a mate with brand new yoko A539's fitted to them which I've since fitted and it surprisingly dosen't look half as bad as I had expected (considering they're 16's!!).

The rolling radius hasn't changed at all, and I experiance no rubbing at full lock. The best bit is the handling has improved dramaticly! The old tyres were very tired, with bulges in some of the side walls and offered no grip, as well as virtually rolling off the rim at the slightest hint of a corner!

Now with the wheels, the car looks very 4X4, so it needs to be slammed! Like I said, its all on a budget so, lowering blocks and cutting springs ( :shock: ) are on the cards.

What are the front spring dimensions? 128mm? Can I get away with -2 coils on standard shocks? I've seen some new standard shocks on a certain auction site for pennies - Would they be a worth while buy? Are the standard 340 springs too soft to cut? I've read its better to cut 360 springs... anyone have any spare to donate? :D Also read somewhere that its possible to cut the dampers down and re-thread the top, again, is this worthwhile? What thread is it?

On to the rear... I'd be after a 2" drop, again will the standard dampers like this or will I have to replace them? Will any other mods be required, I've heard that it might foul on some parts, also an issue with the handbrake cable? What length bolts will I need and what thread size are they? M8?

Finally, I appreciate that anything done with no budget will not really benifit the handling etc but its just for the look currently (however if any improvements can be made for very little cash, the better) The car is not going to be afast track car etc, as I've already mentioned in my first topic I've got the S40 for that.

Any advise is greatly appreciated :)

Cheers, Andy P

(I'll post up pics of the car on the 16's asap!)
classicswede
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Post by classicswede »

TBH the 340 springs are to soft to cut down 360 ones would be better if that is what you are going to do. Cutting the fornt struts down in leangth would not be easy at all as the top end is flared.

As to the rear end fitting the blocks is all you need to do on a 340. The 360 needs the handbrake cable moving to the other top of the spring.
Dai

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Andy P
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Post by Andy P »

Cheers for that :)

Cutting springs is hardly ideal but its only a temporary measure for now :)

Oh, don't suppose you could tell me how long and the size of the bolts I would need to be for 2" blocks? :D

Thanks again.

Andy P
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Andy P
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Location: Portsmouth

Post by Andy P »

As promised -

Image

:D

Andy P
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Ricatron
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Post by Ricatron »

would it not be better just to buy the lowering springs from the forum?
£55 is the cost and that worth it rather than cutting the springs
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Andy P
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Post by Andy P »

If I wasn't doing this on a "as cheap as possible" basis then I'd probably be getting lowering springs and adjustable dampers - if not adapting some sort of fully adjustable coilover system to fit.

If I could get hold of lowering springs for near enough the same price or cheaper than cutting some 360 springs, then I'd do that of course. However I see that as unlikely.

Andy P
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Ricatron
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Post by Ricatron »

where are you getting the 360 springs from?
cause i like the idea of a cheap version :twisted:

£55 for better low springs sounds ok but if i could get 360 springs for a tenna or so then.....sweet :D
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classicswede
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Post by classicswede »

Andy P wrote:As promised -

Image

:D

Andy P
It looks a bit arse on the floor - is there a lot of weight in the back?
Dai

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http://www.classicswede.com

phone/text 07824887160

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kaos
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Post by kaos »

Can any U-bolts be used on the lowering blocks?
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340GLT
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Post by 340GLT »

Cant use U bolts, has to be standard nut and bolts.
Adam
F559 LFE - 340R 2.0 16v
C208 CTR - 340 1.8 16v
D300 LBO - 360 GLT 3 Door Turbo project!! (and restoration)
F706 RBX - 350R in process!!!
kaos
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Post by kaos »

So how do i use lowering blocks if i cant use U bolts? going for a 2" drop.
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340GLT
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Post by 340GLT »

U bolts are used on a rigid rear axle design. the 340 has a de dion rear beam that has flat plates that mount ontop of the leafs with a plate underneath. You simply lift beam block underneath longer bolts.
If you have a look you will see.
Adam
F559 LFE - 340R 2.0 16v
C208 CTR - 340 1.8 16v
D300 LBO - 360 GLT 3 Door Turbo project!! (and restoration)
F706 RBX - 350R in process!!!
kaos
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Post by kaos »

Do you know what size bolts i need then? As ive hopefully got some escort mk2 blocks coming. Also what about torque-ing them down to stop them from coming out etc.
thanks:)
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340GLT
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Post by 340GLT »

Measure the bolts in there and add height of lowering block.
F559 LFE - 340R 2.0 16v
C208 CTR - 340 1.8 16v
D300 LBO - 360 GLT 3 Door Turbo project!! (and restoration)
F706 RBX - 350R in process!!!
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Andy P
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Location: Portsmouth

Post by Andy P »

classicswede wrote:
Andy P wrote:As promised -

Image

:D

Andy P
It looks a bit arse on the floor - is there a lot of weight in the back?
Yup, its got 4 wheels in the boot and one on the back seat!

Managed to get some 2" lowering blocks off ebay for a massive £3.70!! Just need to get hold of the right bolts :)

Any idea what diameter the front springs are?

Cheers, Andy
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