Big ends for '86 B200E

Post by **pettaw** » 03 May 2005 11:51 pm

No probs James, always happy to discuss things.

The original one from my car, the pistons were the only thing that were knackered. Sure it probably would have quite happily gone on piston slapping for another few thousand miles, and used no oil, but I felt it was time really. I felt vindicated when I saw the pistons that came out of it, because they've got nice big score marks on the thrust side and the bores had gone oval.

The bearings in that were not worn at all. I checked very carefully with Plastigauge and all the bearing were well withing tolerance, so I agree with you on the bottom end these engines seem to be fairly indestructible. So no need for regrinding or anything there, just a full set of new standard sizes all round.

I'll take some piccies at the weekend.

Post by **pettaw** » 05 May 2005 06:33 pm

Here you go, the pistons all have this scoring on the thrust side, indicating they've been knocking against the sides of the bores and got damaged.

I also noticed that the rings were all gummed up in their grooves, apparently, particularly if the oil ring seizes in slightly, the loss of sideways pressure means you're more likely to get piston slap. Strangely enough never used any significant quantity of oil and compressio tests were fine, maybe even slightly high. I guess that was all the carbon build up, of which there was quite alot on the pistons and the head.

Post by **pettaw** » 08 May 2005 10:38 am

Rods arrived today so have started the assembly.

Block, bored oversize.

Nice piston:

Pistons in block:

I also put the head on last night, but when wheeling it back it went over on the stand after catching a hole in the crazy paving, so after getting three members of my family to help me get it back upright, I didn't feel in a mood for piccies. I don't think there was any damage though, apart from scratching the rotor arm slightly. Got away with that one

Post by **foggyjames** » 08 May 2005 12:55 pm

Nice work! Are those 'indents' in the pistons actually raised?

How many miles did the original engine have on it?

cheers

James

Post by **pettaw** » 08 May 2005 01:42 pm

Yep, I went for the original 97/98 octane high compression pistons. I always use Optimax/Ultimate anyway so keeping the extra bhp/torque will be good.

The original engine had 124,000 miles. The only thing that was worn was the pistons/bores and the little end bearings in the rods were worn/rusty, all the bearings crank etc all within specs.

Post by **foggyjames** » 08 May 2005 01:57 pm

Do you mind me asking how much those pistons cost? I'm interested in rebuilding my 'K' as the high compression version before it goes into an Amazon...when pigs fly

cheers

James

Post by **pettaw** » 08 May 2005 02:13 pm

I think it was 52.50 each, you'll get some discount though as a VOC member.

Post by **huskyracer** » 16 May 2005 08:22 am

Hi mate, Looking at the pics of your old pistons, I would say that the original engine had been badly overheated in the past, If it gets too hot the pistons expand too much resulting in zero piston to bore clearance and very scuffed pistons, hows the new engine comming on?

Post by **pettaw** » 21 May 2005 09:17 pm

engine's ready to go, but the bodywork needs attention, and I don't fancy putting in the engine and then leaving it in the bodyshop where they move the car 2 yards with plenty of revs, of course, from cold and then switch off. So I'm going to delay until I get the body sorted.

Its interesting you comment on the pistons looking scuffed. I wonder if bad 'piston slap' would contribute to this because of the sideways movement of the pistons in the bores.

Also, because the car had aircon, it gets hot under idle whilst a/c is on. Particularly because the original Volvo design didn't kick in the aux.fan (there already is an engine driven one) until the top hose temp was over 110 (the therm in the bottom of the rad was a 100c one) which meant that the temp needle could quite easily go near to the line before the red light comes on. I've now changed the sensor to an 85C one so the fan comes on much earlier.

One other thing though, if the car had overheated seriously in the past, you would think that the head would have warped and blown the head gasket? I had it skimmed anyway when I stripped it, but they only took 4 thou inches off it.

Post by **wjp01908** » 22 May 2005 07:58 am

"One other thing though, if the car had overheated seriously in the past, you would think that the head would have warped and blown the head gasket? I had it skimmed anyway when I stripped it, but they only took 4 thou inches off it."

Quite likely Andy - but is it the original head though? It may have been bad enough to have put on another one.

Will

Post by **pettaw** » 18 Jun 2005 10:52 pm

the new engine's been in a week and jas done about 500 miles now. Two of the valve clearances need doing. Anybody know how to get the shims out without the correct tool? I don't really want to take the camshaft all out just for two shims.

Post by **foggyjames** » 19 Jun 2005 12:21 am

I need to do mine too, but I'm getting tempted to let my garage do it! You can hire the tool from IPd in the states, and I bet the VOC have one for hire too. I don't know how to do it any other way.

cheers

James

Post by **pettaw** » 26 Jun 2005 11:47 am

I bought a tool. 35 quid. its cheaper than letting a garage do it wrong anyway, and there's probably a queue of 10 people if I hire it through the club. I'll get it by next weekend.

If you need to borrow it let me know.

Otherwise the cars running great, noticebly more power than the other one, and has this pleasant whine of nice tight bearings.

It does however have this annoying noise that sounds like something resonating. I did think it could be a big end noise, but it can't be because I pulled all the plug leads in turn and the noise was still there. Its also not belts because I took then off and also the timing belt cover off and it didn't make a difference.

Erm, it occurs twice in the rev range, but low down. First about 1200ish and then again about 1400ish. There is also an exhaust rumble, because I probably haven't put something on straight, but thats a much lower grumbling noise. This is a resonating higher pitch vibration. Occurs only when the engine's warm too, not from cold. Engine load makes no difference either, neither does dipping the clutch.

I would try and get a recording but I don't think it would be picked up. Other than that the car runs great. No oil leaks/water loss and has now done 700 miles trouble free.

Megasquirt is in the process of being soldered together. I still need to get a wiring loom sorted out and also a lambda sensor etc.

Post by **foggyjames** » 26 Jun 2005 07:13 pm

A B200F mid-pipe has a bung pre-welded, or you could just get one fitted to the downpipe(s).

I'd be very interested in hiring the tool. I have a friend with a shim kit, but I fear I might be telling you this a little late...

Good news on the engine, but I don't have any suggestion on the noise.

cheers

James

Post by **pettaw** » 26 Jun 2005 11:45 pm

You're right, the B200F do have the Lambda prewelded, but they also have a cat connection which wouldn't work too well without one. I could probably get someone to weld in a lambda connection onto the downpipe so it shouldn't really be too difficult.

This noise bugs me but I'm hoping its not too serious. As I said, I'll try and get a recording done sometime next week, if it'll pick it up.

I should be able to pick up the shim tool next Thursday so e-mail me and we'll sort something out.

Have you checked yet to see how far out your valve clearances are? I guess with a new cam in there everything's a little different now.